Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Yeah. It happened. Figured it out pretty quick as my starter clutch stopped grabbing...

So yeah now I've got super slip... on my starting clutch. Flushed it out after I double checked which oil I used. I think the part of the starter that was above the oil line still has some stick because the bike will* still bump start with great difficulty. Once it fires up it seems to be running in the same condition as before.

I know this was pure stupidity.

Do I need to pull this shit apart again (just. re. built. it. fml) and gas the clutches/degrease? Will the correct oil re-penetrate and disperse any remaining motor oil? Hopefully this is good for a laugh somewhere.

I've flushed/drained 8 ounces through it and it seems to be a bit better but...

FUCK. (edited)


Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

There shouldn't be anything wrong with that. A lot of guys use motor oil like that. Ken recommends 0w20, so your problem is somewhere else I think. (And it's a splash system so the top will get oiled too btw) (edited)

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50


I was under the impression Motor oil was for 4 stroke top ends and that Transoil is for 2t bottoms...

re starter clutch: that the portion of the starter clutch that was above the oil line for the six hour interval between parking after running the Motor oil was the part still sticking... It was definitely splashed. I ran it for 3 miles with the Motor oil. I thought that stuff would lube great but penetrate my clutches in a bad way...

I wanted to end my first post something like: "Pray for me Ken," but didn't want to be the first to evoke his name. I asked his advice but cheap ped out on buying new parts. I'm running hot, and I imagine a bit of a noob on his shit list when he reads this post.

I'm guessing that the forces on the first and secondary are sufficient to allow them to grab, although I did feel slightly more like I could rev to the moon in first on the Motor oil but I have the race crank and second is flipped. I feel like I would have seen Metalica ala Tushino Airfield if the shims had disintegrated. Or derbi from the clutches. I wish I had a stock derbi.

polini/ 2 petal malossi/ 21mm del jetted about 40 ft rich/ homo 6p/ Cdi Retard/ TrailTech Temp Gauge

20/35 40 mph ~300 ... short sprints at 50+ pipe is really loving you so hard... I kind of like the burble humming through the pipe at cruising speed when you're just touching it. Had a 45 on the back but yeah, shits got too real.

Kicked in the balls for an extra $25 in insurance this year too.

Maybe there's a place for me with homeboys r us


Seriously Ken, please tell me my young pathetic life isn't over. All our reservoirs here have bridges you know. (edited)

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Patrick Keaton /

I prefer to use TYPE F Automatic Transmission Fluid in PUCH moped engines.

Here is a review from a person,not me, about TYPE F :

i used to work for a oil company and delivered

to a lot of transmission shops and they all used type F in

everything but i don't recommend you do it just because i

did - i only use it from my personal knowledge and trust of

type F anti slip ingredient's.

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Rev to the moon in first = chewed up za50, real quick. I learned the hard way :)

Just search for puch transmission fluid on these forums and you'll see that plenty of people use all different types of oil and alot of people use 10w30. It even says it in the wiki. It will make it slip a little more than regular type F, but not "rev to the moon". You got something else wrong. Did you re- shim after you rebuilt?

And btw Ken will probably only have you on his shit list if you don't read the forums and wiki first haha. We all probably have newbie questions and dumb questions but we try our best to read around first.

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Dirty30 Dillon /

I use moto 10w30 for wet clutches, is the best heat fade protection and clutch grab I've found. And my starters grab fine.

Your issue seems to be one of shimming/trans setup. Especially if you first gear is slipping hard and your starter shoe won't grab.

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Omg first and second work fine. Are you guys missing the whole motor oil is different than trans oil thing or am I mistaken about it? 10w30 is a weight/viscosity not a particular kind of oil.

My problem is my starter clutch slips in the bell. It grabs while hand turning the pedal slowly but won't reliably grab when pedaled over or bumped. Once it grabs enough to start the bike runs and shifts smoothly. Second gear is flipped... That's why it will rev high on first. She's ready to shift around the same place as running the bushing crank. If I recall correctly holding the throttle in will make a ZA with a flipped clutch rev up and shift hard as opposed to releasing to shift at preferable rpms... With a needle bearing it winds up quick that's what I'm talking about "revving to the moon." Sorry for the colorful language. I would think that if first was slipping I would have seen debris and it wouldn't be pulling so hard off the line. Wouldn't I have noticed a shimming issue immediately? Or seen shim particles if it disintegrated? Didn't find it with a magnet. 1

I used motol transoil for over a year on the stock crank. This isn't a "hey I'm unable to use google please tell me what kind of oil to use" question... That sounds like a question for performance wff. I put motor oil in my engine case, I'm pretty sure I've slimed my starter, and my question is how to clean it (short of opening it up... Hence op.

Right now it seems like you all believe Motor Oil and Transmission fluid are the the same thing. And I'm using Transmission OIL not ATF anyways. Three different lubricants/coolants for different applications.

Unless I'm totally wrong here...? I googled it?

Looks like its gona have to come apart for cleaning so I guess ill be checking the shims.

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

You're not listening :) But good luck!

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Overpriced Parts /

Type F fluid sucks compared to the synthetic offerings of today.

I use 0w20 synthetic motor oil overfilled a few ounces in my za50 and e50 transmissions for more protection and better slip then the grabby when hot type F automatic transmission fluid .

You could use any kind of oil regular or synthetic 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 maybe thicker 10W40 if in run in 90 degree area all the time .

With regular oil just change more offen .

I use synthetic motor oil in many moped transmissions that have wet clutch shoe type clutches in it with the exception of tomos (because the clutches are cork I use regular motor oil) and Garelli (rubber clutches that use 30 weight non-detergent oil ).

You got to try different oils and use what works for you. I do have 1 funny Za50 that slips too much with synthetic oil so I run universal type automatic transmission fluid in it though not the grabby when hot type F fluid.

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Dirty30 Dillon /

Putting motor oil in your case will not ruin your starter clutch, so it doesn't need to be cleaned or anything.

Starter clutch adjustments would be my first solution.

Re: Motor Oil In the Trans Za50

Just to be clear I am reading what you guys are posting just want someone to say something concrete about motor oil as Im hearing conflicting things irl and online. Thanks for the responses guys you talked me down from the edge, I choose life. I was just hoping for a magic remedy.

Yeah I tried adjusting at the lever and it feels like its actuating appropriately. When I get a chance I'll try and reset the small cable.

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