E50 seems to lose power when Hot

Harry Barfield /

What would cause my E50 to get weaker as it gets hot? Seems to pull OK up hills and from a stop when I first start out but the longer I ride the weaker it pulls.

I had read that a bad condensor could cause this. Looking at my local parts supplier they have condensors with nut, solder condensor and effe condensors of each! Anyone know which one I need? It's a bog standard '75 maxi. I don't have a flywheel puller yet, i'll need to order one when I get my parts. I thought I may as well get new points whist I was there, and again I have the choice of With wire/without wire/ EFFE. Of course replacing all of that would be pointless should that not be the cause of the problem.

Re: E50 seems to lose power when Hot

♣Slew Foot♣ /

check compression with a propper tester when hot with the throttle @ WOT.

it could be anything from needing rings to ovalled cylinder, usually a bad condenser would fail within 10 minutes of runtime then not restart till it drains charge, about 6 minutes. all condensors are universal, pointset is a bosch e50, they are specific, ie a honda pointset won't work on a Puch

clogged gas cap vent is the simplest thing it could be, then it could be a clogged exhaust, tarnished/maladjusted/worn pointset. bare wire that when up to amperage arcs to ground.

everything you described point to an ovalled cylinder. when it gets to operating temprature there is blowby past the ringset, if you can zip around and go uphills when it first starts then after 10 or so minutes of operation it won't go uphills as well and loses speed, this is prolly the worst scenario solved by a new cyl, piston and ringset. kit the beatch.

Re: E50 seems to lose power when Hot

Harry Barfield /

Is there an easy way to measure for an ovalled cylinder? I've recently ordered some parts for the bike that I'm still waiting on. A techno circuit, filter and jets, but I think changing parts when it's not running right is only going to complicate getting to the route cause of the problem. I have some digital calipers, is it just a cause of measuring for a uniform bore all the way around?

Thanks for the help. I was hoping to wait for the winter to fully rebuild, add a new crank and kit! wanted to have some fun in the summer before I had it in ten thousand pieces over the winter.

Re: E50 seems to lose power when Hot

Its hard to measure from the top you will see a lip where the rings stopped coming up and no wear at the top. If its real bad you might compare the top lip to the bore by eye it should be apparent.

Re: E50 seems to lose power when Hot

Harry Barfield /

So I've solved the problem. I went to the local auto parts store on my lunch to pick up a car condenser. Tge guy in the shop gave it to me for free, he said he has loads of them and can't remember the last he sold! The bike was running very slow on the way even from cold, with little to no power up hills. I got a new spark plug from there and swapped it out on the car park. It made no difference and on the way back it was worse than ever. It seemed to be running very lean as it would just lean bog on anything but a quarter throttle. I removed the new plug and sure enough it was white. I stripped the carb on the car park which was contaminated from years of standing (last on the road in 86). It didn't seem to make any difference and then I noticed that the bike was way too quiet. I whipped the muffler off and it was full full full of carbon. I went a bit mad with the hammer as I had very limited tools and unclogged it as much as I could. Anyway the bike is now running faster than ever, I'm not sure if it was just the exhaust or a combination of the two but it seems good. I messed around with the idle circuit screw when I was fettling and now it doesn't tick over that well, cutting out after around 15 seconds. Should the screw set the speed or should I adjust it using the cable tensioner?

Thanks for the help and advise !

Re: E50 seems to lose power when Hot

Brent Bublitz /

Harry Barfield Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> So I've solved the problem. I went to the local

> auto parts store on my lunch to pick up a car

> condenser. Tge guy in the shop gave it to me for

> free, he said he has loads of them and can't

> remember the last he sold! The bike was running

> very slow on the way even from cold, with little

> to no power up hills. I got a new spark plug from

> there and swapped it out on the car park. It made

> no difference and on the way back it was worse

> than ever. It seemed to be running very lean as it

> would just lean bog on anything but a quarter

> throttle. I removed the new plug and sure enough

> it was white. I stripped the carb on the car park

> which was contaminated from years of standing

> (last on the road in 86). It didn't seem to make

> any difference and then I noticed that the bike

> was way too quiet. I whipped the muffler off and

> it was full full full of carbon. I went a bit mad

> with the hammer as I had very limited tools and

> unclogged it as much as I could. Anyway the bike

> is now running faster than ever, I'm not sure if

> it was just the exhaust or a combination of the

> two but it seems good. I messed around with the

> idle circuit screw when I was fettling and now it

> doesn't tick over that well, cutting out after

> around 15 seconds. Should the screw set the speed

> or should I adjust it using the cable tensioner?

>

> Thanks for the help and advise !

The idle screw should control the idle, don't use the cable adjusters unless there is too much slack in the cable.

Get a new exhaust.

Re: E50 seems to lose power when Hot

Overpriced Parts /

Tune your clutch and run 0w20 synthetic motor oil instead of type F garbage fluid for less heat fade, Jet/rejet your carb better, unclog your exhaust/ get a performance exhaust .

In other words tune your bike

Re: E50 seems to lose power when Hot

Harry Barfield /

I have a new exhaust in the post at the moment along with a range of jets and new filter. The idle screw doesn't seem to do anything, I guess I have an airleak somewhere. I think I'm going to order a bing rebuild kit and buy some gasket paper and really clean up all of the mating surfaces before fitting the new gaskets. I'm running type F at the minute so i'll drop that and get the 0w20 as you recommend. Ill have to have a read up on clutch tuning, hopefully ind something good on the Wiki.

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