Cleaning the surfaces isn't too fancy - wipe it down, then wipe with a little parts cleaner/brake cleaner, etc.
Make sure that any old gasket paper is thoroughly removed.
Mine was so baked on I made a tool to scrape it off. Most gasket scrapers are steel - didn't want to risk damaging the aluminum; so I took a small brass tube and hammered one end flat. Filed the end so it was square, and you've got a scraper that's a bit easier on the aluminum surface. Copper pipe should work as well. Touch up with a file once in a while to keep it working.
Piston rings aren't too big of a deal during removal, just take care not to catch them on anything during reassembly. It may not be a bad idea to check the ring end gap on them if you've noticed compression is a bit low. Other than that, you can usually compress the rings by hand while installing the cylinder. Be careful to keep them aligned on their posts!
>Base gasket>cylinder>headgasket>head and then torque to spec?
Yep. I (as a matter of habit) soak my paper gaskets in 2T oil before assembly. I find it helps with disassembly during future work.The head gasket is aluminum and should be installed dry.
One other thing - some aftermarket gaskets don't fit as perfectly as one would like. Be sure to check the fit before you're caught halfway through installation. I discovered my base gasket had holes too small for the studs and they were spaced a little off! Ended up making my own in photoshop, laser printing the outlines onto gasket paper, and cutting them out with an xacto knife.
Lastly, don't use any RTV or gasket goop at all ;) if the surfaces are in good condition and properly prepared, they should seal fine without any.