Crazy Wayne™ rocks your Mom's sister's niece's daughter's grandma Wrote:
> If your setup and tune is golden 18deg BTDC works
> just fine.
> If you read Kens old post you will see that backs
> off his timing 1deg every 6mo.
I move with the times unlike some fan cooled cast iron cylinder only tuners. The lower I say the better and the noobs still set timing full advance it seems.
I used to say around 1.0mm in plug hole around 15-16 some degrees btdc
but these new casting kits like Tccd (Taiwan chemical and cylinder development) kits, 72cc airsal, new casting polini kits even treats type kits are either cast in indo china and or made with inferior materials and can't hold heat so you have to throw more and more heat back in into the pipe for these to tun cool. With small stock size fins/no fan or water to cool a puch kit a hi timed, big pipe/hi rpm set up will go into the red zone quick and seize.
I say now that Hpi or retarding ignition is best .
Points ignition with these big custom pipes/hi rpm pipes can't keep these cheep ass cast kits cool.
Temp gauges don't lie. The lower the timing the cooler a kit runs. The difference in temps from 14° to 17°@ Full throttle is huge it's 50-100 degrees F
and or not sustaining a constant temperature and it just keeps climbing until seize. The difference from a seizing or not seizing is a fine line only a few temps.
I say start low and if you run cool then add timing if your cool.
Again no one absolute setting.
And again my info is for noobs not seasoned tuners, fan cooled cast iron cylinder tuners or people that like to run 449 F head temps