Ran relatively good before the cleaning. Just had some fine sediment at the bottom of the bowl. Cleaned it and reassembled it (know how to do it, I work on cars as well) only to find that it now runs like crap.
Has fresh gas, removed the automatic oiler and put 50:1 gas in the tank. Carb is an Encarwi. I already checked the spark plug and the exhaust baffle is clean.
When you put the carb together did you make sure the needle side of the float was positioned up.
Yeah, it's the correct way.
Fixed it. Turns out the gas a bit of water in it. All of it was settled in the bottom of the carb bowl. Cleaned out the tank and carb and filled it with new gas. Problem solved!
Bogging seems to be back, and it is not related to the gas this time. Seems very random, so I am assuming that it is a bad set of points or a weak coil. Problem is, the screws holding on the black magneto cover are stripped flatheads. I might have to take a dremel to them and hog out the slots more to get a grip on them!
Magneto should be ok as all the lights are nice and bright. All the wiring is good and the grounds are clean. (edited)
I think I found my issue. Apparently the coil grounds through the brake light switches? I found messing around with both makes it either run really good, or stall out. According to the wiring diagram I found, they ground at the brake switches, in which both of mine are buggered.
Is there a way to ground the coil otherwise to prevent bogging/stalling issues? My brake light switches are both kinda messed up.
EDIT - According to this -http://www.myronsmopeds.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/Tomos-A3-Bullet-1976-86.jpg
I can directly attach the blue wire from the coil to the magneto and bypass the brake light circuitry? (edited)
Ok, so I bypassed the brake light circuitry for the coil ground and the bogging seems to be gone for the most part! Also it seems that the spark from the spark plug is brighter as well. Oh, and so far, it hasn't bogged down.
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