MOPED ARMY

Gas cap vent plugged? Or dirty filter strainer? I remember them having trouble with the vent lever on the cap,I believe. don-ohio (:^)

maybe you ran your carb dry faster than it could refill

I know what you mean,but check the gas cap anyway. It does have the selector lever,right? don-ohio (:^)

Quick update all on my honda express noped...

- I checked the gas cap and ensured that when in "OPEN" state air would easily travel through the pin-sized hole in cap. All good.

- I DID found a very poor connection that was soddered on the Ignition Coil (Spark Coil), green wire I believe. I removed connection, re-stripped wire, and crimped it back with a good solid connector.

- I DID replace the stock Petcock with a newer one, because the old one was leaking fuel. In an effort to get the old petcock to stop leaking I may have disturbed the flow of gas to engine. This could go along with the theories others mentioned about not enough fuel.

I will run some tests this weekend to see if that did the trick.

Thanks for the suggestions, and keep them coming.

-=JFK=-

All,

New quick question to enthusiasts out there. I have been reading up and exploring the notion of "carburetor stalling". I have found the following when researching the topic:

" It may be getting too much fuel once it’s warmed up. An engine needs more fuel when it’s cold than it does when it’s warm. Cold engines run inefficiently so they need more raw fuel to fire-up, and stay running. This is all a choke does. A choke plate closes-off the air going into the carb which makes the fuel mixture really rich so it can run. Less air = more fuel. You’ll also notice that cars with chokes also idle real high until they warm-up. This fast idle and the over rich mixture (due to lack of air), allows the engine to fire up and stay running. As the engine warms-up and starts burning fuel more efficiently, the choke plate begins to open, which slowly lets more air in and leans-out the air/fuel mixture. Once the engine is warmed-up, the choke plate will be wide open allowing the carb to run as it is supposed to with the correct metering of fuel and air..."

Soooo.... my ped may be running too rich and when the engine eventually heats up and I give more throttle... I am "stalling the carb"?

My question:

"What does stalling the carb feel and act like once the engine warms up to a higher temp?" (feel as in motion of bike or sounds, etc)

Mucho Thanko,

-=JFK=-

-=JFK =- Wrote:

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After re-reading that, it sounds like you soft seized your kit. There is a break in procedure and it sounds like you were not following it. You have to run a richer oil mix, not go past half throttle for so many miles... You would have to look up the specifics for the kit you have, but I know going full throttle after only 30 miles is ... bad.

Hey,

I am running a 50:1 ratio with AMS Oil 2 cycle Dominator:

I am still running with the jets that came with the Mikuni 20mm side bolt carb.

Do you know what the stock carb jet size is... and what do you recommend for jets? (Jetting is a new arena for me)

Thanks,

-=JFK=-

I ran the 70cc DR kit all last year. I upgraded the carb this year. Can't be full seize because I can go start it fine right now and the back tire has never locked up. Must be soft if anything. Now I just need help with what jets to use.

-=JFK=-

Yeah...

Soooo.... guess this was the cause.

Is it possible to remove save the cylinder?

-=JFK=-(edited)

would like to know what jets I need to use in a mikuni 20mm carb for elevations of 3200ft and 900ft or if there is a chart posted somewhere that will help

All,

As mentioned by DPC Ryan, I performed a Honda Express Muriatic Acid Wash / Seized Cylinder Repair.

You will find a complete HOW TO for the process I did, along with video and catchy music.. ha!

Thanks for all your help. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Respects,

-=JFK=-