MOPED ARMY

gently pulling throttle with the choke still on

are you sure?

In the 210 workshop manual on jawamoped.com they specified a .5 gap for a PAL N7 R and ii have the equivalent (B6HS)

Reel it all back.

The symptoms point to you running very lean. The only difference the choke makes is the density of the mix. Choke on, rich, choke off, lean.

You either have a blocked idle circuit, you are under-jetted or you have a massive air leak somewhere you have not checked yet. How have you been checking for air leaks? How sure are you that the carb is clean? did you run a wire through the idle circuit hole?

I had crappy idle after cleaning a 14:12 twice. I finally ran a chunk of wire through the idle passage and knocked a huge chunk of crap out.

Wicked, i was talking .5 mm, if your talking inches that'd be .019, so youd set the gap a little larger then me at .7 or .8 mm which is .027 - .031

* edit to above post,, it idles and will run w/ the choke on just fine( fine meaning 10 mph and not stalling) (edited)

you could try a richer throttle slide. Does your slide have a steep angle on the bottom? That would mean a lean idle mixture.

your crank seals may be bad also.

W/ the Jikov last year it was able to idle and ride reguardless of choke position but still stalled after a few miles and wouldn't reach top speed. Would start right up again after a few seconds of pedaling.

Upon reassembly of the jikov for the nth time i smushed one of the sensitive brass float bubbles so i put it aside and bought a used Sha and a gasket kit.

Hope its not leaky crank seals.. but that's the only thing i've left untouched and are probably 25 years old. looks like i may haveto put in an order overseas..

Can they be replaced without taking apart the engine? If not it maybe wise to check if i need anything else, bearings, rings, etc too if necessary because ship time is 3-5 weeks. Did anyone hear that pinging in video 1? it does that at idle and more noticeably when speeding up near second gear. it's like BB flying around inside going ting ting ting.

Theres 4 styles available on this site which are narrated by the dimensions( the 15 x 24 x 7 only comes in 827N). in the Workshop manual the Sealing rings in engine are unspecific of the style.

-Narrow Width

-822N Ground metal O.D,

-824N ground metal O.D Closed,

-827N rubber O.D.

17 x 28 x 7 -1 pc

15 x 24 x 7 -2 pcs

22 x 32 x 7 -1 pc

35 x 47 x 7 -1 pc

28 x 38 x 7 -1 pc

Theres atleast one seal leaking on the transmission side because theres new oil seeping in behind the clutches i recently cleaned and replaced. Gonna check the rest tmw. dodged a shipping delay bullet for now.

if replacing these seals doesnt do it its gotta be that damn thyristor because i was having these symptoms a year ago too with the same setup except stock carb. i tried making a homemade one from the wiki but it couldnt wire up right and refit the old hungarian unit (edited)

I replaced the leaky seals, that wasn't the main problem...

thing was the Petcock was clogged to hell. tore it open and rebuilt it. Bike will run and not stall if i hold the gas open a little at stop signs. that could be the loose throttle cable. other then that made 34 flat land and 37 downhill but i gotta put the new tire on before i keep pushing it. Pumped ..

Jawa Lives!

drill through 2 rivets, unscrew on either side of the petcock, pry out old rubber dohickey, throw the metal bits in some carb cleaner, cut a new gasket, screw it up and good to go

(edited)

yea definitely. except..the seals started leaking tranny fluid. figure out we pushed them in too far past flush w/ the case, oops. i learned something, search, research, then work on yer ped.

i appreciate the advice everyone, thanks. (edited)