e50 clutch adjustment?

I recently moved to the city and decided I would need a little more pop off the line. I drained my fluid, removed my clutch, added two stiffy kickstand springs to my stock 2 shoe puch e50 clutch two turns in from flush, reassembled, and refilled with 0-20w instead of my typical type f.

Maybe there is something incredibly simple to this that I've overlooked or maybe I just need to keep playing with the springs? but now the clutch is very hard to engage, even adjusted as tight/high as possible and my bike will only begin/attempt to run when it is engaged.

Bike was running well prior, sans comfortable Boston stop and go drive acceleration for my 6'5'' frame. E50 maxi, 70 airsal, hi head, proma circuit pipe, dell 19, timed well, gasketed well. It acts like it really wants to fire up and will do so for maybe 3-5 loud seconds, but as soon as I let go off the tight tension on my clutch lever, its gone. What am I missing?

Re: e50 clutch adjustment?

you need to loosen it or go back to stock springs and tighten those down pretty good. on a stock cylinder you really dont need stiffer springs

Re: e50 clutch adjustment?

I've been adjusting a lot today and similar problems--I had it running for a few minutes with holding the clutch lever, but it had to be revving pretty high. --It's a 70cc slightly ported, casematched Airsal. So...

In front of me I have two, 2 shoe puch clutches.

One has stiff kickstart springs in it.

The other one is completely stock, black springs.

Which clutch shall I attempt next, and at what depth do I adjust the springs to? I feel like I've tried a lot of different settings with both, except either cranked all the way down.

Re: e50 clutch adjustment?

delayed bump

Re: e50 clutch adjustment?

xxXxXX XxxxxxXX /

are you saying when you let go of the clutch lever after starting the bike, it dies? that's not really got much to do with the springs you're using. they don't come into play until you're idling, revving, and getting moving along. if your engine is dying, maybe something is catching inside the bell. i've had my clutch shoes stick to the bell before because of a lack of fluid (case seal leak), so when i came back to idle, the bike died. but you might have put something in wrong. not sure how the different fluid might be affecting you, but i'd go back to type f till you figure it out. and maybe even put in the stock clutch and see if you're getting it to idle. you shouldn't need to hold the clutch lever for more than a second or two to get it started and idling.

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