Ok... i get it... you really suck at explaining things lol.
I don't know really how you're going to fix that without recutting that circlip groove on the crank.
If you lower the clutch any on the starter plate bell/second speed drive gear/second speed clutch mount plate - you're going to hit the second speed gear with the pucks in it.
If you drop the starter plate bell/second speed drive gear/second speed clutch mount plate any by grinding the surface that rides on the thrust washer that sits ontop of the circlip, you're going to engage the clutch.
If you recut the groove on the crank, you risk giving the starter plate bell/second speed drive gear/second speed clutch mount plate too much wiggle room and hitting the second speed gear with the pucks that drives the output shaft.
If you leave the circlip out completely, the clutch is going to hit the second speed drive gear with pucks that drives the output shaft or that spring is going to be a loose cannon and do who knows what.
Try assembling it without the circlip and one of the thrust washers... That's the only way I see it working without cutting a new groove. TBH, I wouldn't run anything like that.
I would try to come up with something else besides cutting a new groove, but I can't think of anything right now.
Sometimes the old stuff is the good stuff... Maybe you should just cut your losses and have your old crank rebuilt. You don't want to blow your shit up because it's jank.
I also hope you're not just trying to change the subject because you got your crank to stop binding... If that's jank too, you might as well just strap an M80 to this engine and save yourself the time and trouble. (edited)