MOPED ARMY

It should spin with ease and grace. No binding. You have some reading to do in the manual.

Did you remove the old races from the cases? If not, your going to have to do that.

I'm assuming you put new seals in, which will cause a little bit of stick but not so much you cant turn the crank by hand.

make sure your seals are pressed in properly, and that your bearings races and cup are pressed in evenly and completely.

As Ed said, new bearings must go with their new races/ cups

also, are you re-using or using new crankcase gasket?

it might also help to assemble the case halves in the orientation it would be when mounted to the bike...

there is a large amount of info on MA about this rebuild, you should be able to find your problem and solution on here by digging in some forum threads. bottom line, if it doesnt feel right, its not.

take it apart and do it again.

Thanks a lot for the replies.

Yes, the gasket is new, I assembled it the ''right'' way like if it was mounted on the bike..

Everything is new actually, the cups, bearings...

I parted everything up, both cups looks fine in the case and so are the seals..

So I'm assuming I'd have to dremel the races? That's weird and it sucks.. Or double gasket..

Sounds like the bearing set is not like original

I don't know why but I like the thicker gasket

Any guru knows somrthing about the tiny space between the crankshaft itself and the inner race. On the service manual, they states that there should be 0,20mm lesft side and 0,10mm right side.

I can't measure that exactly but I'm stating to think that the treats/77 za50 crankshaft are just not the same are the stock ones.

I'm gonna have have to sand that inner race until the binding stops...

the difference between the 0,08mm and 0,12mm gasket treatland sells looks useless to me now as it should only affect the end float and not the binding...

They are not the same as the stock crank. They are a little longer.I Believe they were made that way for a reason.I have a friend that has a za that has the 77 crank in it.He has been running hard for hundreds of miles without a shim on the crank side,and mabe one on the clutch side.If you sand it.Make sure you sand it even, and square.I would not sand it.

I think you're asking for worn out big end, small end, and damaged race surfaces by not shimming properly. You're letting your junk slide around all over the place and tweak everything up.

It doesn't matter what the shims are, so long as they come out to the right end play float.

And Joe the end float and the binding are the same thing... your crank is binding because you have no float. I'd personally go with a thicker gasket before sanding the inner race seat - that's just me. (edited)

I used normal printer paper(0,0038inch) or (0,1mm) PLUS my original gasket and that fixed the binding..(somehow)

Not ordering (treats) the 0,0012inch instead of the 0,008 was my first mistake...

My readings showed that my journey is not over, many circlip groves/shimming problems awaits.

I just hope that I won't need to shim the crankshaft (before the inners) and I guess not since my binding stopped for now...

Many thanks for all the replies.

Damn...

Okay.

So https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2747740,page=1

Chris Paz talks about the circlip groove that is 0,02' too far on the crank. That seems to be my problem. The solution to remove the washer after the circlip doesnt change anything since the second gear clutch goes 'over' the circlip and directly hits the starting plate, causing my problem : as soon as I tighten the clutch retaining nut, the clutchs engages, the rear sprocket is almost impossible to move and if it moves, it drags the crankshaft with it...

I tried to keep the shims on and remove the circlip. that fixed everything (for now)

Any one knows if that woud cause a problem?

The clutch retaining nut is torqued to like 30-40 nm, which is more than enough to 'push' that spring, instead of the tiny circlip..

I'm no pro , I'm sure I'm missing something big...

I agree with everything mopagen has said - except zero play. It's not an accuracy... 0% error is great. However, there is a high and low side to the tolerance on the crank and transmission where above the high tolerance is bad and below the low tolerance is bad too.

It has to have SOME room to breathe

And again, it's not working..

https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2747740,page=2

In that thread, it explains clearly that the starter plate should be below. so the cone shim would rest on the shlouder on the crankshaft and not the clutch.

EVEN if I remove the washer after the circlip, there is STILL NOT ENOUGH space to clear that shoulder on the picture.

It's really a circlip groove issue and not fixable with shims.

The only way i find would be to grind a second circlip groove 1mm below the existing one. Is that doable without machine shops?

The other way wouldbe to litteraly grind 1mm off that 'highlighted' thing on the picture in page 1 of the thread.

I don't know how I'm can't find others posts with this problem since ALL the 77/treats crankshaft have this problem. Everyone talks about shims but it's not the solution here

Picture below.

What I call 'shoulder' is part on the crankshaft, exactly where the cone shim is supposed to rest.

The brass/metal piece is that thing that goes between the second gear clutch and second speed clutch.

The main problem is stated the the link in my previous post.

This is NOT a bearing/case/gasket/seal problem, I took the picture without the case.

You could also try grinding the top of the starter plate bell/second speed drive gear/second speed clutch mount plate and second speed gear to lower it so that shoulder is exposed, but then you're decreasing the surface area of the second speed clutch splines.

Or, you could try and make an additional spacer that fits inside the starter clutch bushing to make a new shoulder for the cone to rest on.

My question is, if you stack your cone washer or whatever you're calling it - the spacer that goes between first and second clutch - on top of the second clutch, then first speed clutch, then lock tab and then thread the nut on without the nut going above the bottom of the brash bushing on the bottom of the crank... If you can't then you're going to need even more clearance and certainly not going to be able to come up with just a spacer.

I'd just chalk this up to experience and eat the $150 or however much the crank was and not ruin the rest of your motor and work.

You speak kick ass english for mostly french. Don't apologize lol

I'd try to find a ZA crank used to have it rebuilt. There's a parts motor on ebay right now.

The bushing can be sanded down, it really doesn't matter as long as the bell spins free but also not loose, and the threads can be tapped the next size down on the flywheel end, as long as it applies enough pressure it doesn't matter.

If you've got damage from hammering, it probably needs to be trued anyway, so have a new rod pressed in while you're at it.

Just a tip - a hammer is not a tool to be used on a crankshaft, unless you're trying to align it and have centerpoints and dial gauges.