Re: ZA50 rebuild

thanks for the tip lol

on the crankshaft if i put ONLY the circlip and the ''metal/brass cylinder'' (inside the second gear clutch)

well that leaves only like 0.5mm to grind.

Chris Paz was right about removing the washer after the circlip, it helps about 1mm. still 0,5mm of that piece above the shoulder.

So you were kinda right for this. I can gring like 0,25mm on each side and that should work! It won't be enough to make anything hit the second gear! can't wait to try this.

Re: ZA50 rebuild

hope it works! and also glad you solved the binding issue!

Re: ZA50 rebuild

sanding the metal splined spacer I've been talking about is the absolute only way to make this work. (because of the aftermarket circlip groove problem) the magneto side axle thread is not even the same as the factory one, like if it wasn't enough lol.

thanks to all of you guys. my magnum is running ok for now with an extra super annoying noise (probably a timing issue or another weird magical moped problem)

Re: ZA50 rebuild

be careful, if your flywheel is not seated on the taper of your crank you could shear your woodruff key and gnarl up your crank. that can be fixed but it is not fun.

that was my mystery noise and i learned the hard way

Re: ZA50 rebuild

joe karam Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> And again, it's not working..

> https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2747740

> ,page=2

> In that thread, it explains clearly that the

> starter plate should be below. so the cone shim

> would rest on the shlouder on the crankshaft and

> not the clutch.

Joe, I'm glad you found my post and realized it was the same problem I was having. I just wish that 1977 and Treats would realize this and contact the manufacturer to fix the issue.

Deadped Ryan Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> You could also try grinding the top of the starter

> plate bell/second speed drive gear/second speed

> clutch mount plate and second speed

This is what I have done on the cranks that have had this issue. You must grind down the splines of the starter plate and usually you have to grind down the three "cheeks" near the inside of the second gear clutch so that it has some play on the crankshaft after the cone washer is tight on the crankshaft shoulder.

If anyone has more questions about this or what I have wrote, send me an email or PM and I'll try to respond on here.

Re: ZA50 rebuild

They made 2 styles of starter plates. You need to use the OLD OLD OLD style. Meaning the 1 piece style.. came on the 1.0hp and some 1.5hp but it must be the 1 piece.. Not the 2 piece starter plate.

Re: ZA50 rebuild

10,800+ k and still running strong. if you leave them stock, they last forever. it thought mine was starting to chatter, but it turned out it was just the chain hitting the swingarm.

Re: ZA50 rebuild

Senf the crank to Cheapsk8s in Ohio and be done with it.

Re: ZA50 rebuild

10800 rpm ? or miles ?

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