I've looked all over the wiki for anything about replacing brake shoes. Didn't find much. I have a puch manual and its a little vague. I'm new to drum brakes and want to do it right the first time. Any tips or tricks on doing it would be helpfull.
I bought a new set of pads for spoke rims from MopedJunkyard. Didn't measure before ordering but they are EBC and look to be stock. Do the pads need to be scuffed before installation?
There is this, but a little late for you I'm afraid.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Brake_shoes%2C_what_you_need_to_know_befor_ordering_online.
I saw that. I'm pretty sure I got the right replacement pads. Just looking for some "tips" on installation. Do the springs go on before or after I insert the new pads?
Heres how I do it. I call it the "bear trap" method. I take my empty brake plate out in the yard and place it on some soft ground and kinda step in it so it depresses its self in the ground and is less likely to move around. Then I put the two springs on their little posts on the shoes, so now I got a little, two shoe, two spring, swingy assembly in my hands.
Get down on you knees and sit on you heels with the brake plate stuck in the ground between your knees. Now lower the two shoes with the springs down to the plate, you want to kind of fold the shoes together so that the rounded arch of the shoes is facing the sky In the shape of a "trap".
You want to force the heels, or half moon ends of the shoes around the little post of the brake plate, and the flat, actuator ends around the actuator post.
When you think you have the ends of the shoes in a close position on the posts, then muscle the two archs down flat against the plateas if you were setting a small animal trap.
At this point the heel ends of the shoes will probably snap into their homes
but the actuator ends will be fighting not to go in theirs. Bring one of your feet up and step on the brake plate, trapping the shoes in the flat position but leave the unseated portion exposed.
Now it's just a matter of some prying with a screw driver or some needle nosed plyers and they will soon snap into their homes.
I learned this method by watching some guy at the "Landsqibs" Rally last year. Here is some actuall shots of the guy.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Cheetahchrome!! I think I get what's going on. So the springs should be in place before I start to install, right?. What about getting the old shoes out? Just the oposite?
So, when I pull the back wheel off. I only dissassamble the brake plate and sprocket? Do I need to do anything to the other side of the hub?
Yes, springs and shoes together. To take them off pull on the actuator arm with one hand this will rotate the little actuator cam to its applied position.
Then you can slide a flat screwdriver between the brake shoe and the cam.
One 1/4 twist to the left of the screwdriver and the shoe will be served up over the cam and all will be revealed
You shouldn't have to mess with your sprocket, The brake plate will slide off the axel once you remove the axel nut and washer.
The top show looks like it says Noob.
Should I rough up the pads? They already have little grooves.
Take some 80 grit to your drum lining especially, so that it's nice and shiney. The Pads? sure, if they are shiny glazed, rough them at a 45o angle.
I saw that, NOOB, I almost fell out.
More about the drum lining, mine has grooves in it, and I'm getting no stopping power at all. Squeeze as hard as I can, all I get is a sore hand, with little to no movement from the lever, and no stopping power (pushing the wheel with my hand and squeezing the brakes stops the wheel, but not when I'm actually riding it)
Took the brakes out, sanded the pads down a little to get rid of the shine, put them back in, and after one ride they had black shiney lines on the pad again.
New hub? Should I just sand it down in there?
It may be possible to take it somewhere to have it machined, like they do car and motorcycle hubs. Talk to brake and motorcycle shops.
I managed to ruin the little washers on the outside, you knoe the ones i mean? under that plate, the ones that move up and down with the actuator... they crumbled apart when i took the brakes pads off!
I replaced them with a piece of innertube, seems to work okay
Anyone else had this problem?
throw some comet in there!
Tim Ostrom Wrote:
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> throw some comet in there!
huh?
Comets are not big enougbh .. you need large asteroids.
you can get a cream for that you know
Yeah, I second the "bear trap" method. I'm pretty sure that any other method will result in pain, sadness, or both. I thought the Puch manual outlined that fairly thoroughly though, or they at least have a good picture of it. Which manual are you using?
Roughing things up a bit doesn't hurt, but also get brake cleaner and make sure everything is CLEAN. You'd be amazed at how much grease and crap can be in there.
Also, if you're feeling ambitious, this isn't a bad thing to do while you've got your wheel apart.
Comet is an abrasive and can act like sandpaper to break glaze and break in parts.
there were guys on the racing circuit down here who would throw some Bon Ami into the cylinders of a new engine to get the rings broken in quick.
@ Vigorous:
It sounds like your shoes are worn down to the point where the rivets are showing. Not good. Look at the shoes and see if there's some shiny spots showing that would most likely line up with those grooves in the drum.
Ahh cheers tropibats :)
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