Got a 1980 peugeot 103 I've hardwired and am working on setting up with puch 2 coil set up.
Basically I'll have an external condenser, external coil, internal coil, and points. I am wondering which coil I can use as the internal coil as it seems to be suuuuuper hard finding the puch exciter coil. Weird right?
Any ideas on an internal coil I could use as the puch exciter coil in this ignition swap? Unless you have one or know where I can find one ( treats don't got em).
Z
Ya and that worked for you in the 2 coil set up?
naw, running 4 and 5 coil stators now.
everything i've read said the puch is a poor match to the larger peugeot flyheel, plus, you have to slot the mounting holes, ugly.
Hmmm, well you think I could hook that coil you linked from treats to an external ignition coil? I know that coil you linked will fit just fine in the 103 stator.
Get this from treats and build your own plugwire with wire from Napa $0.89 a foot.
https://www.treatland.tv/puch-peugeot-103-internal-ignition-coil-p/puch-peugeot-internal-coil.htm
Oh and no what you asked before won't work.
You run that coil to you points and the points to an external condenser?
I actually already have that coil in your photo. It seems a little small in the stator, did you dremel out the holes at all?
No It fits great. The non resistor plug wire was a tight fit in the coils little socket, so I shaved some off to get it to thread in. I carry this one as a spare.
does the white wire run to the points. i just got one and saw no info on it anywhere.
correctamundo
I recently bought a 103sp. I got two of the 5 coil sets with it. I only need 1, but I have to make sure one or both are good. Can the coils be tested with a dmm...measuring resistance to make sure the could are good?
Need help wiring this up, On my stock 2 coil stator the wire coming from the ignition coil went to the condensor then a wire went from the condensor to the points (like in the diagram posted). Do I hook this new coil up in the same manner?
if you condenser has a screw to mount it to, then you can mount the white wire there. or the points, either one will work. all the points do is ground out the other times it could fire or spark the plug. when the points contact open, this is the only time the coil will create a spark. you will need to run a wire to the buss bar where the kill switch is. so you can stop the engine from running at demand.
I found with that coil, you lose the ground wire for the brake light circuit. Rewire the brake light to run off of the lighting coil.
the original puch duel ignition coils setup. had the internal coil, horn with the ignition combined. blue was ignition and blue with black tracer ie.. the horn wire. my horn coil was shorting out in internally. when i hit the horn button, it shorted out the ignition like hitting the kill switch. thats why i going to run this this one. and run the brake coil setup to run the horn. and i bought the 12 volt lighting coil to run the head light and both back lights. this setup will make me run one more wire because i'm running a separate common wire from the lighting coil, the normal ground or center tap from the lighting coil will be ran to two bridge rectifiers. the yellow and green wires will also run to each of the bridge rectifiers. then the positives and negatives will be run to the regulator. then i will be able to run rear led's. that will be how my puch will be setup.
Hi,
SO I know enough to be dangerous. I replaced my Peugeot coil with this one and don't have brake lights. Is this replacement not equivalent to the original (in that it is missing the windings for the brake light circut?).
When you wired to the lighting coil, did you have to change the swithces/wiring so they were normally open instead normally closed -- how it is originally wired?
Thanks --Chris
Did a little reading on the forum and I think I answered my question. maybe somebody could confirm. On the treat coil, it is internally grounded to the frame via the two monting posts thus there is no seperate wire to ground (through which I can run the brake light circuit). If I isolated the coil -say by insulating the posts with small straws or something and some insulating washers, and attached my black wire on the metal body of the coil then, I could run my brake lights in the "stock" wiring configuation no?
Even better would be to replace your normally open brake light switches in the brake levers to normally closed and wire to your lighting coil. It will save you some headache when the brake bulb burns out.
Hi,
Thanks, Putting it on the lighting coil seems to make the most sense I just wanted to avoid changing swithches.-- Maybe I'll see if a DPDT relay would work with the existing switches.
I will ! Thanks Jimbo. Didn't realize they were that easy.--
Hi, just for the record that worked just fine, except when the lights are on. Seems when the headlight and tail light and brake lights are all on, it requires too much juice and everything sort of goes kind of dim. So the result of pulling the brake is that the tail light goes dimmer instead of getting brighter (when the lights are on- works great when not). I'll screw around with the bulb, or use an LED for the brakes and see if that helps. Just tossing that out there
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