Motobecane condensor replacement

Last fall I was having some trouble with my 50V dying after I'd been riding for 10-15-20 minutes, or running for a few minutes not moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad condensor.

Well, now that good weather is here again, I figure I'll replace it and wire up an external condensor. Mabecane says I can just install an external one and leave the internal one in place until I can get the magneto opened up, anyone else done this?

http://www.mabecanemobylette.com/condenser_installation.htm

(I can't get that damn Novi nut off, need to get a real piston stop (IE, not rope))

On a side note, anyone here (Louisville) want to help me get the Novi nut off one afternoon? If you've got a real piston stop (Not rope) for my 50V, I bet it'd be a lot easier...

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

Downhill Harvey (OFMC) /

I'm pretty sure the novi nut is reverse threaded.

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

yep righty loosy

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

Iain James /

I know it's reverse threaded, but it hasn't been taken off since the bike was new, it's being stubborn as hell!

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

I have replaced the old condenser externaly,idealy you should cut the wire off the internal condensor for electrical reasons, but leave it in place since it will leavea hole if removed.also check your points clean/replace and check your timing as well.

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

Frostback Ditch /

Have you tried using a little bit of PB blaster? That shit is crazy awesome for making stubborn bolts/nuts easier to loosen.

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

Leaving the condenser inside connected is not a problem, I run mopeds that way and never had any problems. I also install outside condenser with a still good condenser inside ,both connected and that's fine too. You can always disconnect the outside one until the condenser in the mag conks out and presto 2 seconds to reconnect and you're on your way.

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

Motobee Goode /

Macbecane's tutorial works well. I just leave the only one in until I pull the flywheel (then I just clip the wire and leave the old condenser in to plug that hole.

As far as the novi nut, I just recently removed two of the most stubborn one I've ever seen. Here's the method when all conventional means fail:

1). Cut the novi nut with a cutoff wheel so it has two flat/straight/parallel edges. [see pic below]

2). Use PB blaster and heat (I use a heat gun but a torch will work fine).

3). Turn the nut RIGHT/CLOCKWISE with a large crescent wrench or channel lock (or equivalent) and done...no more emasculating novi nut.

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

Iain James /

Cool. I'm going to lay the bike down on the side and fill up the hole of the novi nut with PB Blaster, to see if it'll seep down into the threads enough for me to get it off...

Hmm, I wonder if the bike will make the run to NAPA for a new condensor, without the old one crapping out on the way? Could be cutting it close...

At least it's supposed to be crappy weather here the next few days, gives me time to add a new condensor, put on my new tires, fix my tail light, and clean it up a bit... might even strip the wiring and hardwire it if I get bored!

Re: Motobecane condensor replacement

I have question/clarification about Mabecane's guide on installing that condenser.

I redid all the wiring and no longer have the stock connections for anything on my 50v.

So when he says that I should wire the new condenser up to the male connector from the kill switch, am I then wiring the condenser off of the second connector on the magnito wire going to the HT coil? If so, how does that make the condenser work then? By grounding the spark (just like the kill switch) to the condenser until it reaches capacity and then lets the voltage through to the HT coil?

Would it then be possible to also wire in the kill switch from that same connection?

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