NC50 generic hardware

I broke an obscure nut that mounts the carburetor to the bike. I tried to order the part but it is not on Partsfish (powersportspro.com). I went to the hardware store and found nearly identical nut that screws in. But it is just a little bit loose, even though it threads well. Next size up doesn't fit etc.

Anyone use generic hardware on a Honda?

It seems like they make everything sized a little different than metric.

Re: NC50 generic hardware

Hi Trevor - yes, I use standard M5, M6, and M8 (metric) hex-cap stainless fasteners all over my Express. They're often the nicest part of my ratty beater.

I've found instances where the standard-size fasteners I have don't fit - mostly in places where bolts are half-threaded, or otherwise specialized. I've always ended up just cleaning, waxing, and replacing the original, non-stainless part.

In your case, it sounds like you don't have that option, so let me make a suggestion:

Find a bolt like the one you have that sort of fits the carburetor mounting holes, but much longer. Then, find some reasonably heat-resistant epoxy (JB weld would work, but there is better stuff out there).

Coat the tip of the long bolt in a thin layer of epoxy, thread it into the carburetor mounting hole, clean off the exposed threads, and let the epoxy set. Then, cut off the head of the bolt, file the tip round (by hand is easiest), and clean off the threads enough to screw on a nut of the right size.

After you've done all this, you should have a bit of threaded rod sticking out of your cylinder - you can then use a nut to hold on one side of the carburetor mount, and a bolt to hold on the other side.

Or, I suppose you could just order the part - there is a link to the NC50 repair guide and parts manual on this site somewhere...

Re: NC50 generic hardware

So I will still be able to remove the bolt even after the epoxy sets?

I'm also thinking of trying a new generic metric bolt with a matching nut and then just tightening the nut on the end so nothing is lose.

That might be a lazy version of your idea.

It's too bad, it wouldn't matter that much but I am pretty sure there needs to be a good seal where the carburetor mounts on so that the bike gets proper compression.

The weird thing is the best parts site I know doesn't have that one bolt....they've never let me down with hardware before.

Re: NC50 generic hardware

You would be able to remove the bolt (the epoxy is good, but not permanent good), but you'd have to destroy it. After you cut off the head, the only real way to unscrew it will be to grab it with some super-strong pliers.

So yeah, it's kind of a junky fix, but it would stay in there firmly enough for you to give you a good seal, and would last a long time.

BTW, it just occurred to me that I've been getting very short with Puch for using M7 bolts everywhere. You just don't see M7 bolts for sale - I got a huge lot of fasteners from McMaster Carr, and their standard assortments don't come with M7.

Is the bolt that just barely fits an M6? If so, you probably have the same problem. Some stores do carry them, though - perhaps you should try this first.

P.S. The generic metric bolt w/ nut idea you had would indeed give you a slightly-stronger connection than just the bolt alone. It's also a very good design for a patented thread-stripping device, so just don't torque the nut too much if you go this route.

Re: NC50 generic hardware

i've had the same problem, and just used metric hex-cap bolt and nuts (i lost the carb mount thing that the bolts usually screw into) with no issues whatsoever.. Ace Hardware usually has M6/M7/M8, you just gotta ask for it.

Re: NC50 generic hardware

Done and done. Now lets see if it starts. I broke the original bolt tightening it up for the hundredth time after the hundredth carb cleaning. Yeesh.

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