Moby Clutch Slip

My Moby was running fine... until I took the clutch cover off.

I sanded the shoes slightly.

I broke the grease nipple. Oops.

I greased the inside shaft, but have since removed that grease.

I've cleaned that shaft and all shoes with carb cleaner to get any grease off.

BUT STILL when I put it back together the bike runs at about half of the power that it's revving.

I just want to get this fixed so that I can get rid of the bike.

:M

Re: Moby Clutch Slip

Mike Scouty McScoutington /

you probibly still have some grease and crap on the shoes. how much "meat" is left on the clutch pads? they may not be grabbing well. if you sanded too much off they may not be grabbing at all. you can ride it and see if it clears up at all. you may also want to try a new belt. when you took yours off to mess with the clutch it may have streched out a little. go to an auto parts store and puck up a 17320 or a hardware store and get a 4L320. does this bike have a variator or a dimoby clutch on it? if it is variated it may not be opening all the way and causing your problems.

Re: Moby Clutch Slip

yeah. i've been focusing on the shoes and the shaft. i'll check the belt and the variator's ability to open and close. the belt is new. i didn't have to take it off to mess with the clutch... or was i supposed to for some reason?

i'm pretty sure the shoes aren't grabbing properly though. i'll take pics and post them tomorrow. id on't understand the relationship between the clutch shoes inside the mechanism, and the shoes on the outside of the clutch drum. what does what?

:M

Re: Moby Clutch Slip

Mike Scouty McScoutington /

the shoes on the clutch plate, the part that comes off with the puller, are your idle clutch shoes. the clutch plate is rigidly attached to the crank shaft. as your engine spools up centripital force (its not called centrifical force as a side note) kicks in and causes the shoes to go out. when the idle shoes grab they cause the rest of thed clutch mechanism to spin. as that spins the inner shoes overcome the spring force and grab onto the inside edge of the clutch plate. once the inner shoes grab, the outer shoes on the clutch plate release and the larger inner shoes drive your bike. if you get into the world of clutch tuning you can change the weights and springs

which will effect the timing of clutch engagment and thus takeoff speed and such.

Re: Moby Clutch Slip

huh. then my guess would be that the inner shoes are worn, or for some reason not gripping correctly. or, they are gripping correctly, but the clutch plate is not gripping tightly enough to the shaft. it seems like there should be a woodruff key in there or something. if it's only gripping by friction, it seems like there are too many variables for problems, and that they only thing causing the plate to grip the crank is the clutch nut tighness. so wrong.

:M

Re: Moby Clutch Slip

Mike Scouty McScoutington /

the shaft has a slight taper to it that holds the clutch plate. you should have your clutch nut torqued to 15 ft lbs. if you feel so inclined you should take the plate off again. check the inner shoes and weights. you may have a spring that is funky, or one of the little black rubber stoppers on the weight could be jammed in their funny. if you do take the whole thing apart you should check to see that all of the clutch pads move freely. take a flat screw driver and try to pry up the pads on the plate. if you cant get this working right feel free to drop me an email and we can go into more detail on it from their rather than wasting bandwidth you know. feel free to snap a pic or two if you get stumped.

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