still leaks and bogs please help!

I have a pc50 Honda express and the carburator floods and leaks. I took it apart and took a look at the floater and the pin/bullet-looking thing (not the pin that the floater pivots on, but underneath the floater). The pin looks fine and I blew through the valve/hole and I can feel the air going through it so its not clogged.

The part of the floater that grabs the pin (the little plastic tabs) have a little space in between the pin head and themselves. If I wiggle the floater up and down it will still move the pin but its not snug.

Do you think that it might be something other than the floater before I buy a new one?

Thanks again for your help,

Francis.

Re: still leaks and bogs please help!

On the Hobbits it is possible to install the float bowl backwards which will trap the float and not letting it rise to shut off the gas. Is this possible on yours?

Re: still leaks and bogs please help!

No they must be different, but thank you for the suggestion.

Neat trick

thanks again,

Francis

Re: still leaks and bogs please help!

It's normal for there to be some space or slack between the needle (pin-bullet thing) and the float's hinge tab's little hook thing.

Sometimes looks alone are not enough to determine the needle and it's seat are fuel-tight. There're a couple ways to test the valve. But first determine from exactly where the carb is leaking fuel.

Some carbs have a drain tube attached on the bottom of the bowl. This drain hose does double duty as an overflow hose. A drain screw on the bottom allows you to drain the bowl. Make sure that screw is snug.

Remove the carb from the bike, and clean and dry it well. Make sure all bowl screws are snug and gaskets are in place.

Reattach the fuel line. Turn on the petcock and hold the carb level as you watch for the fuel leak. It may leak from more than one place.

What name is on that carburetor .. (Keihin?) and are there any numbers or identifying marks on it? (Numbers are likely on the end of the carb where it bolts to the intake manifold).

Report back the name and from where it's leaks.

still leaks

i found your other thread .. says it's leaking from the tube at the bottom of the bowl.

As noted, this is probably one of the overflows .. a thin, vertical metal tube in the float bowl is attached to the drain. When fuel rises above the tube's top end, fuel goes into it, down and out the drain hose.

another "overflow" would be at the top of the carb.. it's just a hole. This hole is actually a vent hole, but sometimes fuel rises so fast and so high it also comes out of this vent.

:

Testing the needle for a leak is not easy .. but not too hard.

Turn off the tank petcock. Remove the carb

Get a wide clear glass .. wide enough to set the carb in it.

Remove the carb float bowl.. let the float hang in mid air..

Hold the carb level, and lower the carb into the glass. Hold it above the bottom so the float hangs freely, and turn on the tank fuel petcock. Fuel will flow through the needle valve and into the glass.

Hold the carb steady as the glass fills with fuel.

At some point the float will float upwards and rise and push the needle upwards. Fuel flow into the glass should stop when the float rises nearly level with the carburetor's bottom. If fuel does not stop the needle is leaking.

try removing the carb from the glass and push up very gently on the float. This also closes the needle against it's seat. It should stop fuel from flowing.. If it doesn't that needle is certainly leaking.. It or it's seat is worn or dirty or damaged.

A new needle is usually all it takes to fix this type of leak. Sometimes the needle seat is damaged but it's rarer. The seat can be smoothed out with the correct little cutting tool. However this is tricky and shouldn't be attempted if you're not sure about what you're doing.

Re: still leaks

I can't belive this. I took it all apart and tested it to see if it would stop rising and it did not, but--I totally spaced out and forgot to push up on the floater to see if that stopped it. Duh. I already put it back together so I'm going to try it tomorrow or maybe tonight because I'm doing this in a parking lot of an apartment complex.

But if it is the housing, can I replace that? Because I looked really close at the valve pin and the rubber cone seems perfect and the other end grabs the floater, but you said you cant really see it so I dont know.

The tiny hole for the rubber cone to plug up is free of debree and doesnt seem to have any scratches, but around the hole it looks like it might have the tiniest hole, but its hard to see. I'm guessing if its the hole for the valve the carburator housing will probably have to be replaced.

Thanks a lot for the help

Re: still leaks

The black tip of the needle is made of Viton .. an engineering plastic. When worn there's usually be a ring around it.. an indentation near it's tip .. good magnification helps.

_ but around the hole it looks like it might have the tiniest hole_

This "tiniest hole" may be a clue .. is it a piece of junk stuck on there? I really doubt there's a hole.. probably a shadow of something or a dark piece of dirt. Again, good magnification and good lighting helps.

Lets be clear about some definitions.

The float "needle" is the thing with the pointed black tip.

The "seat" is the little fuel inlet hole in the body of the carb that the needle's tip stoppers up.

The floater thing is called a "float". It on a 'hinge" that pushes on the "needle".

People have successfully smoothed away imperfections in the seat. It's a matter of finding the right little tool to do it. The metal body of the carb is soft pot metal and is easy to scratch.

Power is not needed .. just hand-spinning a properly shaped tool between your fingers with mild pressure for a few moments will smooth the hole clean and round.

The dressing tool can be made from a very small, fine-grit, pointed grinding stone... the kind that are normal accessories for a Dremel Mototool .. they are mounted on a 1/8 inch shafts. Green colored stones are fine grits.

You may get lucky and find an appropriately shaped and sized stone .. otherwise the stone will require re-shaping with Dremel's stone-cleaning and shaping tool (the tool looks like a black square chunk of rough stone) Hold it against a spinning stone to reshape it.

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