Puch Points

NB0tt aholetechbro /

My maxi has this problem of always having the points slip out of adjustment. It seems to happen about once a week at least where I'll set them and it'll run great but then after about a week or so they start to go back out of adjustment. I think it's the adjuster screw is letting them slip back to the point where they won't open.

Problem is is that to try and tighten the adjuster screw it's difficult because the flywheel is half in the way and if I try to tighten it too much I'm just going to strip the screw.

Right it's gone out of adjustment but last time I tightened it quite a bit and now I can't get my screwdriver in there with enough grip to loosen up the screw again and because i'm going at it with an angle I'm afraid i'm just going to chew it up so now I'm going to have to pop off the flywheel to get a straight angle on it.

Anyway I was wondering if there is a way to set the points gap and somehow make it so they won't slip out of adjustment all the time. Seems like I'm tightening the screw enough and yet they still slip out of adjustment......BTW they are new points from last fall also.

Thanks

-Nicco

Re: Puch Points

you cant set the points without the flywheel

try taking that screw out and putting some washers on it. it should have 2. make sure that the little brush thing on the stator is lubricated. Use syth lube or even some 2 strok oil.

I hate points man. im getting cdi as soon as i have money.

I HATE POINTS

lee

Re: Puch Points

NB0tt aholetechbro /

I had to pop off the flywheel so I could get a good angle for the screwdriver so that I could loosen the screw. Popped it back on and adjusted it there.....

On the flywheel where the points rub against it there seems to be some corosion right where the lump is to open the gap. I sanded it downa bit because it was rough and looked like it had worn down my points quite a lot since they are practically brand new and already gone done a bit...

I saw thatbrush thing on the other side......I was wondering what it did......what's lubing it for?

thanks

-nicco

ps.

can you actually put a cdi in a puch maxi?

Re: Puch Points

The lube keeps the points "feeler" from getting chewed up from the flywheel.

The later Puch Korado's came with CDI. They have a completely diffrent flywheel setting than a normal puch..

also there should be a real small lock washer on the points screw. Put one on and your all set.

Re: Puch Points

yeah if your not lubed, it will wear down the [feeler[ fast. here in south america, i have worn down like 3 sets until i lubes that brush. 2 washers. one normal, one lock, or both lock.

lee

Re: Puch Points

those guys gave you very good info, nicco, there are two places where a little lube will save you a lot of aggrivation. on the flywheel where the balactite bush rubs, and the axle where the moving point pivots. i actually always used just a sliver of grease. i got the best results with a gap of .016". good thread.

Re: Puch Points

NB0tt aholetechbro /

Thanks very much!

I'm going to probably have to buy a new set of points soon because it seems these have definately been chewed a bit much.

I think it's only got one washer and it's not a lock washer either so I'll put that back to right then.

.016 gap really does it for you? I've always found between .018-.020 to work....is that over doing it because i notice a significant power increase and speed increase with about .020 .

-nicco

Re: Puch Points

NB0tt aholetechbro /

I put lube on the brush......do you mean the axle where it pivots on itself with that strange brown thing on the inside?

Re: Puch Points

Yup, that brown thing is constanly running on the flywheel, keep it lubed. about the gap size;

i think puch recomends 16-18, but if you will find that a lose of power is ussually due to the points, wider means stronger spark.

you should start playing with your timeing. wider gaps ALSO MEANS slightly more advanced.. posible the cause of your increased power. try a smaller gap (17) and advance your timing a little. (advanced is opposite the direction of the flywheel)

ONE LAST THING. if your andvancing your timing. You MAY or may not be bringing yourself into the realm of detonantion. always use good gasoline, buddy, dont cheap out if you love you moped.

lee

Re: Puch Points

new points are a great idea. then you don't have to worry about it for a while.

Re: Puch Points

NB0tt aholetechbro /

That's the problem though....these were new points from last October......got all chewed up

Re: Puch Points

hey guys i think i have having predetonation problems on my puch. when i put the engine back together i just screwed on the electrics plate right in the middle. but in reality i think it can turn a few degrees left and right. if its not perfectly set can it cause a change of timing?

Re: Puch Points

yes, that is how you set the timing... andvanced and retarted... did your rebuild the engine or just take off the plate?

Re: Puch Points

Joe turn your stator plate counter clockwise slightly. Your timing has changed due to the new piston difference. The same spot on the stator plate is no longer the right position for the new kit. The timing measurement has changed if you left the stator plate in the same position as stock. It's due to the piston/shape of the new piston.a slightly different wrist pin location changes the height of the piston or a slightly taller or shorter piston of course changes it's position in the bore compared to the stock piston so to compensate you have to adjust the stator plate to get it back in spec.jim

Re: Puch Points

thanks guys,

zach my engine is rebuilt with a 75cc metrakit. well not really rebuilt but taken apart for the purpose of grinding.

jim how do i know how far to bring it left or right? there isnt any accurate way to measure its position like the points can be adjusted.

Re: Puch Points

oh yeah i still dont understand why i have to change the timing with a kit. isnt top dead center still top dead center? this might help me get my bike runnig right thanks! i notice it making some pining noise when i was soft seizing. along with probably being jetting too lean

Re: Puch Points

compressionis raised, you start compressing at different points....

kits ussually run better with a little bit more advanced timing. (andvanced is opposite the flywheel dirrection)

just try different spots. on a puch you cant adjust timing enough to really Fuck anything up...

by the way, how is the lowend on that kit... have you ever riden a polini, how does it compare....

Re: Puch Points

This is the way to tell properly for a puch others are the same.

Measurment is made from the top of the piston to top dead center. check your manual for the proper measurement ammount.Yes TDC is TDC but since the size of the piston has changed the stroke is different now so TDC occours in a different place in the bore and the stator has to be changed accordingly.I have this gauge and use it it makes making measurements a 5 minute job, the only problem I'm over seas right now Philippines

Re: Puch Points

Actully it only seems you are advancing the timing because of the different position of the stator plate but since the new piston stroke is different because of piston size and or wrist pin location differences from the stock piston the timing measurement "Piston top to TDC" is actuully the same measurement .Now if you had the stock cylinder and piston on there and had the stator in this new position it would be advanced.Jim

Re: Puch Points

has anyone here had Their Puch die?

My magum is still dead.

Shoot bunch of gas in the carb it runs ok then it starts to starve again.

I tried a 68 jet in it and it was waaaay too much.

I was running a 54or 6 for along time and it alwase ran awsome then it just bit the bullett. Has brand new points-condensors and it has very nice spark. Airleak?? im thinking the crankseals went but it alwase ran awsome!

So f'd up....

Re: Puch Points

puch dont die, they can be fixed. check your fuel flow, and try colder spark plug...

Re: Puch Points

hey zach sorry i didnt respond. the low end is insane with this kit. i rode my friends unportmatched polini and this thing is faster in all powerbands. i dunno about port matched but im sure this is faster.

the reason i came back to this post is because i finally put some 93 octane with 50:1 mix and i think its making a pinging noise. i might be paranoid but i dont wanna butn a hole in my piston. so i wanna see if retarding the timing would help. which means along the flow of the flywheel right? im pretty much right in the center. do i needa take my flywheel off to adjust the stator?

Re: Puch Points

Joe you don't need to remove the flywheel to change the stator just mark where it currenly is so you come back to that spot if you have to.lossen the three screws that have the slots and rotate it counter clockwise to about the 3/4 position I usualy tap on one of the slot ends with a screw diriver lightly to get it to move leave the screws slightly in contact with th stator plate you dont want it too loose tighten screws try it out listen for pinging check for over heating. The position you are in now it is preigniting "preignition".if still pinging go to the 7/8ths of the slot position and so on until it disappears you also may notice power differences.HTH.Jim

Re: Puch Points

i just fiddled with it. all it too kwas loosen turn and then tighten. i finally settled at one place. and it seems my moped is acting as if its four stroking i think. but then the plug comes out decent. weird. i dunno if its retarded or advanced.

Re: Puch Points

Picture of the slot or tell me which way you moved the stator plate ie: clockwise or counter?Jim

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