ok,its a za50.
carb is nice and clean
compression is a little over 130
cylinder is nice and clean
spark is beautiful
new points and condinser
magneeto is nice,hasnt lost it magnetic ability
timing is right on
point gap seems to be ok.
wont start,but every once in a while itll run for a hot second
i mean like once every two weeks
tried all different temp plugs
fired once on a ngk b5hs but cut out and wouldnt go on a new plug.
help
have you tried replacing the spark plug boot? i have an ngk one and it solved my problems with the maxi i used to have. my maxi used to spark and on rare occasion start up for a second. but that spark plug boot was dead. the bare metal oens suck so i hear. and it has failed me once
good point,the boot it had was plastic and crappy so i replaced it with a nos metal boot.if that fixes it i guess i owe you a hj in a month
no i think the metal boot is the bad one. just get an ngk one from any distributor(1977) anywhere else. mine hasnt failed me. i have a rubber one thats completely waterproof. you owe me an hj? whats that?
hand job
ding ding ding
Those damn boots , I had the same issue not long ago, But, your getting spark? Thru the plug? or at the boot?
2 other things you may want to Check Are Your ground wires and your light bulbs, mainly the tail bulb.
just because you get spark doesnt mean its will ignite the gas. with my old boot it would spark but it wouldnt ignite the fuel.
as for the hj dont worry a bj will suffice
i havent gone over every wire but it seems ok and all bulbs are new.
i dont think puchs rely on other electrics to work to start up
OK then,, ,,,what's an ON OFF SWITCH.
whoops haha sorry i meant the lighting system. my moped works fine with a dead taillight.
you don't have to have a kill switch...long before I got the notion to work on puch's myself I took it to a local shop and the assholes hotwired everything and threw out my switches, and replaced with a kill switch button.
it probably wouldnt run because your switches were bad.what style switches did you have?if you can find a pic of the switches you had ill see if we have them.price will depend on style,and age.the nos metal oval ones wont be real cheap if thats them
ok,the boot wasnt the problem.im open to more suggestions please
what is a za50? suzuki. i need to know more.
"PUCH problem" ed, ah, it's there. ;-P
it's the engine. a two speed mine is. puches come with a za50 or an e50 i do believe
My guess would be electrics. You should trace all the wires and see if they are connected, I've found wires melted in half...
check to make sure your screws are tight and making contact at the Buss box. I developed a loose screw once and it wouldn't start for me until i pulled on one of the wires and then tightened the screw.jim
only the horn and or horn switch.Jim
bump
You may want to Recheck wires, when you changed to points and condenser a wire may be pinched in back of the stator plate.
I remove all stock wires on most of the peds I rebuild, But, it is nice to have stock wires and switches too.
Here's a way to Check if your getting a short in your wiring Harness.
Solid blue----------------------------------Coil Hot
Solid green and Green Black-------------Brake lights
Blue Black--------------------------------Ground for switches
Yellow-------------------------------------Headlight
Grey---------------------------------------Taillight
Brown-------------------------------------Ground
At "Wire Harness Block" remove the following "Lead in" wires(Coming out of motor, or "bottom side of Harness")
Solid blue,,blueblack and Both greens
(you'll need 2 extra wires)
1 will need the same sleave fitting
as coil.
Attach that wire to the Solid Blue wire and attach to coil.
On blueblack wire attach the other spare wire and Ground that to the frame somewhere.
The 2 Greens join/twist them together.
Try to start.
if it starts,,,, then you have an issue somewhere in your wires or switches, Most likely grounding out.(switches/gates are the Following,, BRAKE LIGHTS,HORN,HEADLIGHT,On/OFF if there)
If it doesn't,,,,,,,It's not the Wires.
Ragstrecher
the thing is this bike has spark at all times. the spark is nice and blue but not as thick as always.
Do me a favor (just for shits-n-giggles), check and see if there is any oil residue on your lighting coils under the flywheel. I know you've got to be frustrated as hell...I'm thinking it may be a bad crankshaft seal? Is it wetting the plug when you try to start it?
I'm just not really sure from the description that it's an ignition problem. Even with a bad (possibly) crankshaft seal, it would still be able to pump-up good compression, but if it's leaking it back down, you won't be able to see that with a compression tester.
Another possible problem would be a major air leak somewhere else...intake, exhaust (yes, I've seen exhaust leaks do strange things), or cylinder base, or head gasket.
Whatever the problem is, I hope you find and fix it soon.
Smitty
smitty,i dont want to hear that again.ive heard it once from pat and i plugged my ears.the plug does get wet,almost too wet.pat and i have plenty of seals so i might as well,at least then ill know how to do it after its done.
Good Point
I had those issues last month on a Magnum block,(bought on E-bay) I pulled the fly and sure enuff it was wet at the bottom of stator., But, I was only reading 100 psi.
one thing with that though is the stator and all is dry
:?
if plug is wet and your getting GOOD + Spark damn thing should at least start.(That's where, I start to Body slam things)
Vac leak or Carb, are only issues left
You say the Stator side is dry? Do you have Fresh tranny fluid? if So, Drain alittle and Smell it for gas or darkness of oil
is the Crank tight? meaning no play at fly nut or magneto.
Sorry man, I feel Fer ya.
yeah i hate this bike. it's ashame how beautiful it is that i'm gonna have to blow it up.
lol or put in on the train tracks.
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