I have read some posts about idle adjusting that say that the back wheel does not spin when correct or optimal. My '01 Kinetic tfr's rear wheel spins like crazy during idle (on the stand) and if i try to lower the idle the engine (or some part) knocks and sounds like it will stall. none of the posts i read where for kinetics so i do not know if i should even pay attention to that aspect. can anyone tell me some way to know that my idle is correct? should it just be as low as possible without stalling?


Re: idle

At some engine RPM the centrifugal drive clutch begins to engage and the rear wheel turns..

Lets say that idle RPM is fast enough to barely engage the clutch on the center stand. The rear wheel turns. Then the center stand is raised and the rear wheel is on the ground.

Now the engine keeps running but the bike doesn't move. The clutch is lightly engaged. This means that the clutch is slipping. A slipping clutch generates heat and wears more quickly.. So a high idle RPM that causes the wheel to spin is not only annoying.. it also wears down the clutch.

At some higher RPM the clutch will no longer slip.. it will engage fully and the bike will move forward.

Idle should be low enough that the clutch doesn't engage .. any lower than that and you'll save a bit of fuel.. manage to get it really low and you know your bike is in very good tune.

Re: idle


i also have a fast idle on my ciao, and is necessary to keep it running without stalling, especially when the headlight is on.

i don't know what to change considering there is only the idle adjustment on the carb, and that's it.

so if it is idling fast and is necessary to keep it running, there must be something causing this, right?


Re: idle

One common thing is adjusting idle on a cold engine. When hot, the engine dies. So, idle speed is increased to compensate. Always bring the engine up to temperature before adjusting idle.

Another possibility is a maladjusted starting clutch cable (if the bike uses this method) The starting clutch drags and slows the engine, so idle speed needs to be increased.

Another cause is a dirty carb.. Or a float level in need of adjustment.. Or a leaky float valve.

The result is a poor idle air:fuel mixture and the bike won't really idle.. So "idle" speed needs to be very high. Some carbs have both an idle speed and an idle air:fuel mixture adjustment.. some don't.

Vacuum leaks in the intake manifold area from old dried out gaskets can make a good idle impossible.. so can minor carb fuel leaks.. So can dirty air filter elements.. So can the accumulation of carbon in the exhaust system.


When the lights are on they draw current and the magneto presents an increased load to the engine. The engine must now idle under this added load. RPM drops. So set idle speed while this electrical load is present.

If any lamps are replacements and are drawing more current than the stock lamps, even more load is present. Replacing lamps with the proper wattage values may help a lot.

The general health of the entire ignition system.. wires, connectors, components, etc. can also have something to do with this.

there's probably 10 more possibilities. But in short, the bike has to be returned as close to it's As-New tuned condition as is possible.

Re: idle

i am frequently adjusting both the idle and the throttle cable. i have stalled while driving before and when i tried to restart the accelerator grip would not disenguage the choke.

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