Re: 1979 PA50 II Engine Cleaning

Joe Woods /
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the carb is accessed by separating the frame from the swingarm.

The swingarm/engine assembly can drop to the floor if the main pivot bolt in front is removed.

Another way is to suspend the frame from overhead. Then remove that pivot bolt as well as the rear shock lower attachments and raise the frame.

Both methods require the disconnection of various cables and wires and both method details can be "Searched" out in this forum.


As far as cleaning the carb, i recommend you do a lot more than spray cleaner on whatever looks gross .. the penalty for a botched job is dropping the engine again.. and again.

Search this forum for general carb-cleaning tips and techniques

The carb should be completely disassembled, carefully cleaned and examined (this cleaning includes removing the emulsion tube and it's cavity, found above the main jet). Detailed instructions on cleaning this carb can also be Searched if you can't figure it out.. Here is one thread break>


Make sure there are no vacuum leaks in the carb / reed valve area. Seal gasket surfaces on the intake manifold-engine-carb with Permatex 2 (non-hardening gasket sealant).


Assuming the carb is truely clean and there are no air or fuel leaks anywhere, reinstall it, reattach all cables, wires, etc and adjust idle.

The idle air and speed screws are used together to set idle. First the engine MUST be really warmed up or it wont idle when it's hot.

On the warm engine, lower idle speed (with the idle speed screw) until the engine threatens to die. Then, slowly play with the air screw, in and out, until RPM increases. Then lower idle speed with the speed screw. Then play with the air screw again so idle speed increases.

At some point, the air-mixture screw will no longer be able to increase idle RPM. At this point the idle air:fuel mixture is correct and you're done.


Grab both PA50 Hobbit Manuals on THIS PAGE break>

if you get stuck or can't find some specific info, ask..

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