1994 tomos targa lx
need to clean the carbs out...
attached is teh pic... How do I get it where I can work on it?
there are some manuals here, maybe one is for your engine.
Thanks, but I have hard copies of these manuals... They do not show how to remove it...
unscrew that nut, looks like the flathead part of it is on the other side of the bike in the picture, unscrew it and just push it a bit back and forth or twist until it slides out, keep in mind the throttle and gas will still be attached and thus will limit your range away from the bike unless you detach them.
If you can't get it out like that, remove the two upper motor bolts and the motor will pivot down.
Live to ride, Ride to work
when the motor pivots, you have to lossen the exhaust and chain and remove the spark plug wire. good luck!
Also the carb had a 51 jet in it... That seems way too small but it is a 1994 model... were they different??
I have a biturbo ready to put on and a 56 and 58 jets....
it has a 12/14 carb in it...
Also the thing ran-- only with the choke on (although choppily) -- would die immediatly when teh choke comes off...
still got carb problems? something to do with the choke? Needing to apply choke to run means some sort of fuel starvation.. the choke richens the mix by cutting off some air and so corrects fuel:air mixture by brute force..
I suggest you get the thing to run perfectly before modifying anything..
After the bike runs perfect, change only one thing at a time and test .. make sure everything is still ok .. then change only one more thing and test again, etc.
If you are in a hurry now it could cost you a whole lot of time in the fuure, and you could end up with a bike that just will not run right for some unknown reason.
But, start with a perfect bike and change only one thing at a time and you'll know where things went bad.. it'll have something to do with the last thing you changed.
Ok so it acts like fuel starvation... could it just be cold? How long do tomos need the chokes enabled? my batavus only needed it for starting...
Should I upjet it?
Also, i replaced the fuel line and added a inline brass filter...
change jetting? i was trying to point out the importance of changing only one thing at a time, and changing nothing until the bike runs correctly.
When did the choke-thing problem first happen? After the carb rebuild? After the new inline filter was installed? Did this bike ever run right for you?
It's very common to "clean" a carb and end up clogging something up.. all the dirt and gunk in the carb's hidden passages is loosened by the solvents. Then some tiny bit that was left in the carb floats away and clogs something. The result is fuel is blocked somewhere.
A choke is used to start the bike. Cranking/starting air:fuel mixture is very rich.. near 2:1 or 3:1. After the bike starts and runs for a few moments, idling needs a leaner mix, near 8:1, so the choke would need to be opened up.
The carb has an idle system that does not require choke if idle is adjusted properly ..it has an independent idle jet included in the idle system.
Ok, the bike would barely run before I cleaned the carb with the choke on... now its running better but still needs the choke... I'm gonna get new"er" gas and drain the tank... maybe a little of teh old gas is still in the tank...
I put a new plug in it too...
cool.. for more ideas about easy things to check and adjust and do, go through Freds Guide break>
don't be discouraged if you try everything imaginable and it still needs some choke to run. You won't be the first person that has had to clean a carb more than once (or twice or five times) before its really clean and working right. But having a fuel system that is tight and perfect is worth all the effort.
Well, I cleaned out the gas tank and it runs quite a bit better... Must have had a little varnish in there and just didn't have it all out...
Still needs choke to start but it has a strong sound... Dies without choke -- but runs with the choke...
When I was testing it -- the motor suddenly acted like I had throttled it wide open and I barely cut the engine in time to avoid going into an busy intersection. What the heck?
check your cables.. sounds like the throttle cable or linkage is sticking. Another possibility is the carb's internal parts are sticking.. the slide is not closing when you let go of the throttle..
I wouldn't be messing with any more traffic till I had that thing straightened out .. a car can put some serious hurt on you.. whats on the menu when all your food has to be sucked through a straw?
you mean the little rectangular piece of metal right?... It needs to go up an down entirely ?? I thought it did -- I checked it before I put it back together... I'll check again...
yeah .. it needs to move smoothly and never get hung up. Any springs need to be installed right. No parts should interfere with it's free movement.
Since you're going back in there and it's still dying without choke, it wouldn't hurt to clean it again... use strong lighting and a magnifying glass to inspect stuff.. and blow out all passages with compresssed air.
And I thought that cleaning the same carb 2 or 3 times was standard! joew speaks like a true sage. Clean your carb carefully and thoroughly and hopefully you won't have to do it again for a long while. Each orfice needs to be clean. You should see light out of each jet opening.
Here's some more info from a MC mechanic named Dan
very cool, TorontoBoy ..
"Dan":http://www.dansmc.com/carbs.htm has a good page there.. pretty rare to see someone focus on older carbs and practical methods of cleaning them.
check out Dan's Index page.. one link is for "FREE PAPER MOTORCYCLE MODELS ".
after a few selected clicks you get to a PDF file with scale parts and directions on how print, cut and put it together .. i got me a Yamaha SR400..
"Dan":http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm is who I go see when I have a problem I cannot solve. Often he give me hints on things I may have overlooked.
I didn't realize he also has paper MCs! He does have an interesting sense of humour!
COOL!!! That is a really COOL guide.....THANKS!!!
Even us "old-schoolers" need to brush-up on some things from time to time, hehehehe.
I still can't get the moped to run without the choke on... It will die without the choke on... I am wondering if I need to just bite the bullet (And checkbook) and take it to a mechanic.
would a carb like the DELLORTO 15/15 help in this situation? It has a manual chke and adjustable mixture...
Ok guys.... Got the moped running absolutely PERFECT!!!
The engine purrs and it runs GREAT... top speed 27-28.
It was an air leak, but not anywhere in the crab. It was teh gasket between the reed valve and the carb exhaust. It had deteriorated completely on one side -- but you couldn't tell as it was paper thin.
Went down to the auto store and bought one of those gasket sheets and make a replacement (and ordered a new one). Its thicker than stock but I made it fit...
Started without the choke on the first kick...
Considering this moped sat for a number of years what do I need to check before I declare it "daily dependable"?
I plan on:
Replacing oil in transmission
Basically doing everything Tomos recomends for 1000 miles (even though it only has 400 some on it)
What else can you guys think of?
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: