Once I got the fork in the vise (turned out the press wasn't needed) I could see that it wasn't just bent, but also slightly twisted. Problem was, some dip had dirven the bike for quite a while with no top nut on the steering. The handlebars had enough advantage over the loose top plate that it became distrorted over time.
The steering on this bike was truly a mess. Steering tube destroyed, about 10 balls missing, and about 2" of play at the wheel end. Strangely enough, the bearing races seem to have survived. It's all back together now, and feels fine so far.
MoPedLar had pretty much everything I needed for it. The new ball bearings came from the bicycle shop.