solder (?)

Liberty Straney /

i am trying to get the capacitor off my moped and the wires appear to be soldered (i don't know if i'm spelling that right). my soldering iron was working on the solder i had but wasn't getting hot enough to melt the solder on the bike although it was working a tiny bit. so is there different types of solder and soldering irons? maybe i just need a new soldering iron? my boyfriend had lent it to me and there was also this mini blow torch thing in the case that i was afraid to touch but is that something i am maybe supposed to use? i don't want to damage anything.

Re: solder (?)

there's different Alloys, there's Lead Free (newer standard) there's tin, there's nickel tin, nickel tin flux core....

The ones below are Lead free solders, it shows their melting point ect...

Alloy

*Melting Point

Re: solder (?)

The soldering iron has put out enough heat to to melt the solder. But the wire also absorbs some of the heat as does as the metal around the area. Some of the heat is conducted away..

It's common to have difficulty un-soldering a joint where surrounding metal parts and thick wires absorb heat.

A higher output soldering iron will do it. The instant-heat gun-shaped irons where you pull a trigger to heat the tip usually put out far more heat than the small pen type.

Check Radio Shack or Home Depot.. Get one that is rated at 100 watts or more. They're not that expensive.. THIS one is rated at 150 watts and only $10.

That gas torch may have a clip-on solid metal point. That metal point is the soldering accessory. The torch flame gets the metal tip really hot and it's suitable for big jobs. You're right about being careful with the torches flame around fuel..

Re: solder (?)

Matthew Libhart /

I've done this...you can decide to try (at your own risk of course :)

Use the torch to heat the tip of the soldering iron, then quickly touch the tip to the solder point while pulling on the capacitor. I've done this when unsoldering power supply cords that are attached to PCBs cause as joew wrote, the big wires conduct so much heat away.

Re: solder (?)

Jason Luther /

the tip of the iron may be corroded too. my 30 year old iron had no problem un-doing solders on my riverside. try scraping off the tip of the iron, getting all that crud off of there. i still say the condensor is okay. have you exhausted all other things? my tail light bulb is really touchy, sometimes when its in the socket, it isnt _in_ all of the way, you wont get spark. the brake switch is prone to killing the spark. check around the where the front end pivots, wires get pinched in there all of the time. hell, i even had a bad connection in the light switch on the handle bars. all of these things happened on the same bike mind you. keep working at it. -jason

Re: solder (?)

If you have a little extra length on those wires, just clip them and resolder them on the new condensor. don-ohio

soldering guide

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm

A very good guide to basic soldering

Re: soldering guide

You also need something to de-solder.

The cheapest and easiest is a soldering wick. It's a fine braid of copper that they have at radio shack. You put it between the solder and iron, with a bit sticking out. As the solder melts, you pull the wick, and the solder will suck up into it. This will make the part easier to remove.

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