generic carb gaskets?

hey, just got a 79 honda pa50 II. was thinking about taking the carb apart to give it a cleaning but i dont have any new gaskets. is there some generic silicon i can use that is gas resistant or anything else? the bike works right now so i dont watn to take it apart and not have the stuff to put it back together.

Re: generic carb gaskets?

See Ya Moped Army /

Silicone gasket maker should never be used on a carb. All it takes is a little piece of silcone to screw up a main jet.

Re: generic carb gaskets?

there are gasket compounds that can be used on a carb and can be found at most hardware stores. you have to put it on the peices and let it dry completelt before putting it together, and trim any over hanging gasket. i forget the name of this gasket compound but it comes in a black tube.

Re: generic carb gaskets?

Silicone is not meant to be used in constant contact with gasoline.. it eventually melts away..

As far as that carb goes, you have 3 O-rings.. one on each end and one for the bowl .. no gaskets.

If you have a leak (or even if you don't) you can coat the mating surfaces with Permatex 2 Non-hardening Gasket Sealant.. Do the same on the intake manifold / reed valve /engine block surfaces. This insures there are no vacuum leaks .. these bikes are prone to air leaks in those areas.

The Permatex 2 is not silicone based.. But it remains soft like a paste so here's a warning. This dark colored paste can be squeezed out may get into the float bowl.. These little bits of crap swim around at the bottom of the bowl and can clog your mainjet.. So, use a tiny amount and wipe away anything that squeezes out on the inside of the bowl and then reassemble..

i have 3 of these carbs and none of the bowls leak, so DON'T use sealant on the bowl unless you are positive it is needed. Cuttting a gasket from gasket material would be preferred, imo,

Re: generic carb gaskets?

ooops.. i made an error.. there are only 2 O-rings.. one for the float bowl and one O-ring on the carb's engine end. (A rubber air horn connector slips over the carb's air-intake end, so no O-ring is there.)

There is a plastic spacer / paper gasket / intake manifold. However, this spacer and it's gasket are not a problem so don't worry about it.. you could use any gasket maker compound in that area if you somehow damage the thin gasket, which is unlikely.. But a coating of Permatex 2 would be sufficient here too..

Re: generic carb gaskets?

Don Pflueger /

i never useany kind of silicone or liquid gasket maker on any carb or intake. there is too much vacuum there on most engines for the stuff not to get sucked in. and if youve never cleaned out an engine with this stuff melted thru it, i can tell you from experience that it is a pain and can cause all kinds of problems. go to the honda dealer or and get the correct gaskets. they are not expensive. and you'll do the job once, it will be done right, and you wont have to worry about an engine failurecaused by an air leak where the gasket making material failed. it doesnt pay to be cheap and takeshort cuts.

carb cleaning

Andrew G /

am i wasting my time taking the carb apart for a cleaning if the bike runs? just got it this weekend and it runs a little rought but will make 30mph. replaced the plug and was gonna move on from there. are there any parts i need to have onhand when i clean the carb so that i can have the bike back on the road that day?

...for example, took my mb5 intake off to look at the reeds and the gaskets both broke when i took it off (they were old, stuck on, etc)... anything like that on the pa50?

Re: carb cleaning

Don Pflueger /

on most hondas you can pull thecarb off and clean them out and rebuild them without replacing the o'rings. usea fine piece of wire and run it thru every hole you can find in the carbs body and all its parts. make sure you dump all the gas out of thecarb before taking itapart. if you dont, the o'ring on the bowl will swell up and you'll have to wash it in hot soapy water and let itsit a day or two so that itshrinks back down to size. also make note of fuel bowlposition. it fits on two ways but only one is correct. i would clean the exhaust, head, and petcock before tearing thecarb apart. rough running can be a number of things. bogging or surging is usually a sign of carb trouble. rough idle whether fast or slow usually means ignition. bogging from idle means air leak or two much air. bogging or faltered idle at full throttle means too rich of a mix, restricted exhaust or intake. sluggish all around performance usually indicates lowcompression.

Re: carb cleaning

Same situation.. I can almost guarantee that the gasket between the intake manifold and reed valve block will be damaged when you pull it off. This happened on all three of my motors. My guess is the gasket had a factory adhesive on it or the combination of heat, pressure and time glues it to the metal parts.

Just reassemble with a coating of non-hardening Permatex 2.. the gasket, even if torn, will be effectively sealed.. (i'm speaking from experience)

Under the reed block there is no gasket. the rubbery reed petal sealer / block coating acts like a gasket and the part should pop off cleanly. (be careful you dont scratch through it with a prybar or something.. you don't want to rip that rubber coating.)

Before you take off the carb, spray some Starter Fluid around that area and listen for an RPM increase. If so you have a vacuum leak. I had one and after a lot of wasted effort tracking down a rough idle and misfiring problem, I finally found this leak. After that was sealed the damn bike ran great.

Otherwise, give everything else a tuneup before dropping the engine to remove the carb. If you can get it to run smooth all the way up to 30 MPH top speed you have pretty much reached the limit of the stock bike.

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