loose chain, bad idle and engaged engine

Stephen Baraboo /

three issues:

a - recently i changed the back tire on my '78 columbia and i feel the chain is too loose now that i've put it all back on. i have the tire pulled back as tight as i can when i tighten the bolts, so i don't know what i can do. the chain is slapping against the body right before it gets near the peddles. i wonder if it always did this and i just started noticing since i messed with it. any ideas?

b - my moped idles fine when it's on the stand and the back tire can spin, but when i'm at a stop, it kills. what should i adjust?

c - sometimes when i try to push the bike while it's not running, the engine will become engaged or, at the very least, the bike tire will not turn. it usually will roll ok when it's cold though. thoughts?

thanks.

stephen

Re: loose chain, bad idle and engaged engine

Leon Swarmer /

b and c may point to a clutch that isn't fully releasing.

I haven't torn down a clutch though so I'm not guessing further

Chain shouldn't slap. Is there some sort of a cam effect where the back axle fits?

Re: loose chain, bad idle and engaged engine

you need to take your chain off and remove a link from it. you will almost always have to do this with any chain drive vehicle.

chains stretch and when they get to a certain point you have to take a link out and start out all the way at the beginning of your tensioners again.

Re: loose chain, bad idle and engaged engine

Stephen Baraboo /

that seems logical. how does one go about removing a link, after removing the chain, that is.

Re: loose chain, bad idle and engaged engine

Stephen Baraboo /

what do you mean by "cam effect"?

Re: loose chain, bad idle and engaged engine

Are you talking the drive chain or pedal chain? The drive chain has no tensioner, and so remove the 2 links. The pedaling chain has a tensioner and maybe you put it back on wrong?

To remove the 2 links from the drive chain, IF you can't afford to go get a MC chain breaker tool, just lay the chain down,,,,,,,,,,,position the link and roller pin you need to remove onto a 1/4" drive socket set on a solid surface(wear leather gloves as you may bark your hands with the hammer if not striking the punch exactly), and take a pin punch and hammer and drive the pin out of the link. Save the pin. Remove the 2 links and drive the pin back into the rejoined links. I usually banter the end of the pin to keep it from slipping back out from the direction I drove it in. don-ohio

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