a few puch questions:

Ramsey Beyer /

hi. ive been fixing up a 1977 puch maxi and i have just a few questions before i'll have it running exactly how i'd like. first:

my back brakes wont work and its the only thing i used an old cable for. its pretty worn out and seems to b e stretched out even, but when i hooked them up they worked really well at first. now, they still pull the brake and it seems to be working fine, but the wheel wont stop. any clues? also, the guy helping me fix the bike hooked it up so the front brake is on the left and the rear brake is on the right, ive always heard that it goes the other way around. does it make any difference?

also, do most mopeds have turn signals? or is it all done with hands?

we've gotten my moped to run great but now i dont know how to turn it off when it runs. i dont have a killswitch but i have an on/off switch which i tried turning to off while it was running but it did nothing. so then i shut off the gas valve and still nothing. i let it run a little bit and then we pulled out the spark plug and of course that made it stop. do i need to get a kill switch or just a new on/off switch. i called my moped shop and he said puchs dont have on/off switches but mine definitely does.. its just old and has no cover.

and lastly, my tank was pretty rusty on the inside and filled with gunk and we let it sit with spray rust etcher but i dont think we put enough inside. so we flushed it out with gas until the gas ran out clear. we cleaned out the fuel valve and it started flowing great. but then, the fuel valve got clogged again, and we cleaned it out again and flushed the tank again until it ran fine, then it got clogged again, and the people i was working with said i should just get a new fuel valve. should i do this or just try to clean the tank out better?

if anyone can get me answers to any of these questions it would help so much! thank you all.

ramsey.

Re: a few puch questions:

...they still pull the brake and it seems to be working fine, but the wheel wont stop. any clues?

-either you need to adjust (tighten) the cable, or you need to pull your wheel off, take the drum assembly out and check out the brake pads.

...the left and the rear brake is on the right, ive always heard that it goes the other way around. does it make any difference?

-nope. it can be a little important to know which is which though...in different situations (ie rain or snow) using the wrong brake can be dangerous.

...do most mopeds have turn signals? or is it all done with hands?

-most do not, and hand signals are the norm.

...do i need to get a kill switch or just a new on/off switch. i called my moped shop and he said puchs dont have on/off switches but mine definitely does.. its just old and has no cover.

-you do need one, and the cover. the kill switch basically grounds the electrical so that no spark is possible. if it can't ground it, spark will continue and your engine won't stop. so it makes me think that your kill switch isn't properly grounded, which could be because the cover's missing.

...should i do this or just try to clean the tank out better?

-flush the tank out full with a garden hose. really clean it out good. then get a thing of Behr's Concrete Etcher from Home Depot or somewhere (it's phosphoric acid--careful!). remove the petcock and plug the hole really well with a rubber stopper (do likewise with the gas cap). pour about two-thirds a tankful of hot water, and then add the acid the rest of the way. let it sit a few days, then drain it into a plastic container (can be used to clean other tanks). the rust will be gone. air dry or blow dry your tank, and you're good to go. for more permanent protection, after that would be the time to Kreem it (skip step A as you just did it).

Re: a few puch questions:

Ramsey Beyer /

thanks so much! thats all very helpful. for now until i get a killswitch, is pulling out the spark plug bad?

Re: a few puch questions:

Unless you like shocks then yes.just use the fuel valve,turn it to the off position and in a few seconds it will shut off.

Re: a few puch questions:

try, and get the kill switch ASAP because shutting off the fuel valve, and waiting for your engine to run out of gas isn't a good thing either.

Re: a few puch questions:

Ramsey Beyer /

siiigh. i officially suck at all things moped. cant get my killswitch to work. new cable for my rear brakes and they still wont work. i dont know how to tighten my chain and it definitely needs to be. cant get my clutch starter cable to work. all i can say is grrr. now there is black stuff dripping from where the exhaust pipe connects to the engine, and my gasline is leaking. mopeds are a lot of work.

Re: a few puch questions:

yes they are but are also pretty simple

Re: a few puch questions:

Ben Van Zoest /

It sounds like you are in over your head Ramsey either learn from the internet or FRED's guide or in your case you best bet bring it to a reputable repair shop or buy new. Unless your friend is an expert keep him away...

Re: a few puch questions:

Rear brakes on a puch... I am no stranger to this, Ive spent a couple hours playing around with that assembly.

The assembly works like a follows:

The brake cable attaches at the handle end into a sort of slide jacket that fixes it through a hole in the top of the handle, if you have the hollow magura handles, that is.

From there, the cable runs into the tensioner that sits against the mounting part that the handle iself attaches to. There is a return spring that attaches to both the handle and the mounting part, that helps the lever to return after it is depressed. The further OUT you set the tensioner, the tighter that the brake cable will be stretched.

Now, the cable runs from the tensioner into the jacket. The jacket runs down along the bike, and the routing is rather important, as if you do it wrong the cable will rub and wear out quickly and may not return properly.

On a newport, which should be the same as a maxi, it runs out of the tensioner, through the center hub near where the forks attach, NOT through the cable holder on the bottom of the box, clips onto a thing at the bottom of the aitbox, and runs directly down into the tensioner at the rear.

At the rear tensioner, you should have one nut before and after the part that holds the cable. You will have to insert the cable itself and then slide the tensioner down onto the holder. One nut before, one after. For a brand new cable, I set it about 1/4 the way down and tighten BOTH nuts nice and tight. You might want to use some MILD lock tite on the back one, because they always slide off.

From there, the cable runs out of the tensioner and has a little cylinder shaped piece of metal on the end. This goes into the arm that actually works the rear brake.

So that is it for the routing, now, the inner assembly has alot of parts, I dont have it apart to tell you exactly what they are and I cannot remember, but most importantly is the following:

The brakes themselves are like two cresents that go on either side of two bars on the top and bottom of the part that fits into the brake hub and has the arm on it. NOTE that this part also attaches to the frame!

Inside, these cresents have two springs that latch onto the little hooks on the back side of the brake pads. BOTH must be attached, and it is a REAL PAIN IN THE BUTT! The best way is to sit one bad down on the assembly and attack the springs to the other while it is 'standing up' on the assembly, and CAREFULLY roll it down onto the pad. I replaced both my front and rear brakes and pinched my palm both times, so be careful!!!

I hope that helps with your brake problem! What a mouthfull!

Re: a few puch questions:

Matthew Libhart /

Have some good experience with a kill switch. I recently put a key on my '78 Maxi, so I can actually prevent it from being started (not bullet proof, but it makes me feel better).

I originally started out thinking that the kill switch completed a circuit in the "On/Run" position. That's not true, it completes it in the "Off" position, because what it's really doing is grounding out the hot wire that goes to the coil. Take off your right side cover (if you have one) and take a look at the wiring block. You should see one terminal that has both a blue wire and black wire coming from it. The blue wire will go to the coil. That black wire sort of disappears. That black wire goes to the kill switch. The kill switch also has a brown wire that goes to ground somewhere. Complete that circuit and the power that goes to the coil instead flows through the black wire, through the switch, and through the brown wire to ground. No power to the coil, no spark.

That's how it works and how it's wired. There is no difference between a kill switch and just any old switch. A light switch would work. It just so happens that the terminal beside the blue&black wire terminal has a brown ground wire. You can hook a switch up between these two terminals and presto, instance kill switch. If you want to mount it on the handle bar, then you'll need a switch with the mounting hardware and be able to run the wire to do so, but you can always put the switch between these two terminals first just to test things out.

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