tomos headlights

So I gave the halogen headlamp bulbs a try. They last even less time than the oldere incandescant. While they give much better visibility and more light, they burn out FAR too fast.

Any fres ideas on the headlight issue?

Re: tomos headlights

what is the bulb # at Canadian tire for the tomos targa lx headlight and highbeam? Also, I need a new bulb for the speedometer, what do i do there?

thank you@!

Re: tomos headlights

Go with the normal style bulbs, just w/ more wattage. Try a 45 watt bulb.

Re: tomos headlights

i pried open the sheetmetal and removed the glass lens from a sealed beam and broke out the bulb in the back. Then went to Home Depot and bought a 12volt 20 watt halogen.. not a bare bulb. This bulb has a reflector built in.. looks like this:

http://www.sailnet.com/store/item.cfm?pid=12678

Then used Permatex Ultra Blue (#77BR) and glued it into the back of the reflector.. then replaced the lens and glued around the perimeter. Since these bulbs get hot i silver soldered a length of wire to the rear, instead of using just soft electrical solder.

The headlight's original glass lens diffuses the beam.. plenty of light and cars see me coming.

Been working fine for a month.. i doubt it will burn out anytime soon but we shall see. For replacement i must trim silicone, remove the front lens, remove the bulb and spend $4 for a new bulb.

Re: tomos headlights

For indicator lamps and other tiny ones, fing anything that fits the socket.. If it burns out, try a higher voltage/wattage bulb.. experiment..

If you can't find a bulb that fits the socket but can find bulbs with other base types, you might be able to cut your bulb socket off it's wires and attach the available base type onto the wires. Radio Shack sells both bulbs and their sockets. This solution partly depends on how the bulb is stuck into the speedometer.

Lately i have been using LEDs for tiny indicator bulbs. These are rugged and can be used on any voltage. The only thing you need add is a resistor appropriate to the voltage to limit current to the LED. White, high output LEDs are nowavailable and i wouldn't hesitate to use one for my speedo. (any basic electronics booklet will tell you how to calculate an appropriate LED resistor and how to solder, etc..)

Most bikes have magnetos and no voltage regulator. The faster the engine spins the magneto, the more voltage is delivered. As a result, many 6 volt systems often put out perhaps 15 volts at top speed.. and a 12 volt may deliver 25 volts. This is why bulbs burn out prematurely.

The fix is to keep going up in voltage and watts. A high voltage /high wattage bulb in a 6 volt bike is not likely to burn.. However, it's light output might be dim at idle. There is no cure for this other than building and using a voltage regulator (which is beyond most people).

As far as finding exact replacements for headlamps, i posted my solution in this thread. Finding the dual-beam with the correct adjustment tabs is difficult and expensive. My solution limits me to High-beam only. The "low beam" position is now "OFF".

One other thing i had to do was wire the tail light to the high beam circuit. The tail light now lights only when the High-beam is selected.

Re: tomos headlights

_i pried open the sheetmetal and removed the glass lens from a sealed beam and broke out the bulb in the back_

Not exactly.. This bike's original sealed beam head lamp has a metal reflector. The actual bulb is soldered into the hole in the rear of the reflector.

After removing the lens i used a tiny butane torch to heat the bulb's base. The solder melts and the bulb base can be removed.

Prying back the metal edge holding the front lens deserves some illustration. First off, that trim is stiff and difficult to bend. I was very careful to not touch the glass for fear of chipping it.

I found a small needle nose pliers and cut a thin slot or groove right at the tip of the pliers on one jaw, as close as possible to it's end. Once it gets started with a knife blade or sharp flat screwdriver, this groove in the pliers can grab the edge of the metal trim and , little by little, working my way slowly around the lens, pried it all back a couple millimeters.

Once the metal trim is pried back all the way around, the lens can fall out. Then go to work removing the back bulb, etc.

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