Old Post "Tomos Boatload"

I just thought that I would cut an past an old post in the repair forum where it belongs. It is a good informational post, wish I could take credit for it but I can not. Thanks a ton to the author Trike.

The original post is in the general forum so you may want to do a search there to get the links, diagrams, etc.

Tomos Transmission Specs/Instructions.

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:16

Sorry I am a bit late guys, kinda keeled over from all that bustin ass - but things should settle soon, we're almost

finished....

Anyhow, to biz.

I will post the Tomos background info, then directions, and them some diagrams that should be of use.

As always, you can howl for me if you get stuck, and I will get to you soon as I can.

And one final afterthought (after I wrote alla this), if you are not very confident confident of your ability to do this, find

someone more experienced to at least sit with you and watch, of, if yer in southern michigan, just bring the damn thing to

me, and I'll show you.

That bein said... on with the show.

Reply To This Message

REPOST - TOMOS BOATLOAD.

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:17

This is a copy of all useful/relevant posts on the subject.

I really should cut it to a FAQ, but don't have the time right now.

*********************************

HELP, I NEED TO GET THE CARB OUTTA MY #%^$$%#^&@ TOMOS !!

Ah, the age-old cry of the Tomos owner, upon discovering there's NO FRIGGIN WAY to get to that damn carb

without (it appears) dismantling half the damn moped...

Well, actually, it's not that bad, you just hafta know how to do it.

Firstoff, Loosen and/or remove the bolt on the side holding the exhaust on...I would not mess with the one's holding the

exhaust to the cylinder tho, cause they're a pain in the ass to get off and on...so just the side bolt.

Now, remove both side panels, the ones with that rubber strip on top...shouldn't be too hard.

Now, (trust me) loosen the REAR wheel and dismount the chain from it, but do not REMOVE the rear wheel...you just

want tons of slack in the chain, you will see why.

Next, get a phillips screwdriver, a medium flathead, a tiny flathead and a pair of 13mm deep sockets on a pair of

ratchets...tho if you only have one ratchet you can use a 13mm crescent/box-end, or even visegrips. - and a small bowl

to hold nuts, bolts and screws so you can find em later.

Also, have the socket kit handy.

Next, disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug, and the two wires coming out of the transmission casing from the

electrical system, this is so you do not tear them - and the connectors are easy to find and disconnect...if both are the

same color (yellow/yellow instead of yellow/black or grey/black) you might wanna use some kinda marking system so

you know which one goes back to which.

Now, shut off the fuel and using the flathead screwdriver, remove the fuel intake screw and move it out of the way, take

the bolt out and put it in the bowl so's ya don't lose it.

Now, find the three 13mm bolts holding the engine on...and make sure you know where the kickstand mount bolt is too,

cause it's WAY too damn easy to unbolt that by accident instead of the lowest engine mount bolt...so make sure you

know where all four are...and which THREE hold the engine on.

Now, Loosen the top TWO bolts and remove the nut from the other side...holding that nut in place is what the second

ratchet/wrench/visegrips is for.

Get an unsharpened pencil and push the bolts as far through as you can, then rap it with the wrench, that way you pop

em out and don't strip em.

Now watch yourself, cause right here the engines held on by one bolt..see..

Get one hand under the bottom of the cylinder, where the exhaust goes in and gently loosen that last bolt as you ease it

down, the slack in the chain should allow you go pretty far, but do NOT let it...your oil-injection and throttle cable lines

are still attached, and thats our next job.

Ease it down only far enough to get a...oh hell, it's between 6mm and 9mm, the bolt holding the oil-injection thingie on,

but damned if I remember...just be ready, and ease it down only far enough to get to it, then loosen and remove it.

Now, use a tiny straighedge screwdriver to remove the two small screws on top of the carb, and pull the throttle cable

assembly out...and make SURE to see exactly how it goes together before that damn spring pops the whole works

sideways.

NOW, you can let it down, and if you've done the rear wheel/chain trick right, the chain is looped around the back axle

instead of the sprocket, and you should have sufficient room...

Next, use a flatedge screwdriver to loosen the screw just shy of the manifold, and then see if you can loosen the screw

holding that black rubber widget on the back of the carb too, if you cannot get to it, try working it around where you

can.

Now, get your fingers in there and get the rubber thingie off to make room for our next trick.

Grab the carb and pull it away from the manifold while rotating back and forth...there's VERY little room there to do it,

cause it sits in a cutout of the transmission casing, but it should come back and off without any more hassle - if you

cannot master this trick, just remove it at the manifold.

Anyhow, now you have a carb...set it gently down where it won't get dirty or mangled and GO WASH YOUR

HANDS...having just found out how much of a bitch it is to get that carb out...do you really wanna put it all back

together only to have to dismount it again and clean it ?

Treat this like surgery, you don't want to risk even a SPECK of dirt in there!

Now, having returned with clean hands, take the tiny flathead screwdriver you removed the cabr top screws with...and

remove the bowl on the bottom of the carb, nice and easy...and yes, some gas will spill out, that's normal.

Once that plastic bowl is off, Viola! that brass bit in the center of the bottom of the carb? that's the main jet...use the

medium flatedge to remove it, and replace it with your new jet.

Now screw the bowl back on and pray, really hard, that you didn't get any sand/dirt/grit in there...or just have the carb

cleaned by someone who knows what they're doin.

You can reverse mosta this to get it back together, save to mention a few things.

First, that black plastic/rubber bit on the back of the carb...has to go over the plastic tube behind where the carb

goes...best way to do that is to slowwwly lift the engine one-handed back into place as you use the medium flathead to

make sure this happens....be quite prepared for a LOT of frustration, this tricks hard till you master it.

Also, getting the top of the carb back into requires you to know how the damn thing goes back together, so you'd best

make sure you know, have a diagram handy if you have one....the L-shaped piece points to the rear wheel, and the

round part of the slide does too.

The cable goes through the middle of the spring, not over/under it.

It's hell to describe, so get a diagram, ok ?

I know alla this sounds ultra complicated and a hassle, but dude...I can do it in under eight minnits, often even less (ask

Fred, he's seen it) - it's just a matter of getting it down pat...and believe me, as a Tomos owner...YOU WILL.

Oh yes young skywalker...you WILL know...

-R

=================================================================

Reccommended plugs

@ Champion = L82C/L86C/L90C (Depends on which book you check)

@ Bosch = W8AC

@ NGK = B5HS

? Motorcraft = AE4/AE4x/AE6 (depends on book)

# Denso = W16-FSU

? AC Delco = 422Z

# Splitfire = SF409C

? = Performance unknown.

@ = Known solid performer.

# = Not reccommended by me.

Plug gap should be 0.5mm in any case.

R

=================================================================

Ok, imma typin this from memory, so if I screw up anywhere, fill in for me, ok ?

Normally I don't remove the chain except to switch it over when doin this, but it's up to you.

FRONT SPROCKET

Firstoff - remove the left pedal, don't ask why, just do it.

Now find a hex-key that fits the damn transmission-casing screws, should be 4-5mm, and there should be about 5 or 6

screws on the left hand side...make sure to remove only the ones holding that cover on, unless you like sitting in a puddle

of transmission fluid.

Now...go get a big adjustable wrench, a flat edge screwdriver, an unsharpened #2 pencil, a rubber mallet, and a broom.

I know it sounds a mite ridiculous, but it works.

Jam the rear wheel with the broom, just stick it through the mags so the wheel will not turn real far...

Now, there's a large nut holding the sprocket on, but to get to it, you hafta deal with this little plate that's bent up at one

side of it....you stick the screwdriver in there, assisted if need be by a little rubber-mallet action, and get it to where you

can use the pencil and the mallet to flatten it out of the way so you can get the wrench on it.

Once you've done that, and put the wrench on it, figure out which it goes...I think it might be reverse-threaded, so

you might have to turn it to the right to loosen it...make sure of that first, however.

(and this is why you jam the back wheel with a broom, see?)

Anyhow, between a little gorilla-arming and some more rubber-mallet frenzy, you should be able to get that nut

loose...spin it all the way off and slip it over the left pedal arm.

Now gently pull that plate off, try not to mess it up or bend it too bad cause it hasta go back on there....slip that over the

pedal arm too.

Now you just do the same thing with the sprocket, it should come right off but if it don't a couple light taps of

screwdriver/mallet oughta do for it.

Now just slip the new sprocket over the pedalarm and push it into place....should have little "teeth" that mesh with where

it goes.

Slip the plate back on, and make sure the little tab goes into the little hole in the sprocket, you will see what I mean

when you have it in hand.

Put the nut back on, and tighten it down real good, cause it's pretty important that it not come loose, heh.

Now, the tough part, bending that plate back so that part of it rests against the side of the nut, it's doable, just have

some patience and work on it with the mallet and screwdriver.....the plate keeps the nut from workin loose, you see.

Now, just slap the side cover back on and tighten it.

And then, put your pedal back on - Viola ! yer done.

Easy as pie.

Rear Sprocket info is gonna have to come from someone who's got the moped handy to look at, it's been a while since

I've done that and don't trust my memory on it.

Although it should just be a matter of the rear wheel bolts (17mm) and then whatever holds the rear sprocket on.

-R

===================================================================

If y'all wanna correllate some of that and help create a FAQ out of it, I shall try to put the time into it....just never got

around to compacting it to one single document, but it would be handy.

Add to yer notes, most Tomos come with a DelLorto 14/12 SHA Carb with a #48 or #51 jet in it.....and the older

Bullets, some of them, used an Encarwi S22, I think.

-R

==================================================================

Fer Snow&Ice riding, mind...

========================

Go to the hardware store and buy about 20-some feet of flat-linked ornamental brass chain, cut it into 3-1/2 or 4 foot

lengths dependin on your wheel size, then wrap it around the rim and tire - securing it with small S-hooks.

Viola!, moped tire chains.

The soft brass won't chew up your tires, although it may scratch the paint some on mag wheels, and digs in quite

nicely....the downside is that they only last about 3 days worth of riding, especially if yer a throttle gorilla like me.

(ungh! fasta, fasta !)

Enjoy.

-R

(PS. ya buy 20-some feet so you have spare lengths, which you should carry on you in case of one of them mounted on

the moped snaps.)

==================================================================

>>Is there a correlation between the lesser rubber on of course the rear tire and flats?<<

Yep.

>>Is there a better inner tube than the one I can purchase at the locat moped shop?<<

Yep - go to Walmart and buy BELL Self-Sealing Tubes, and if you can buy them 1"-2" oversize...which would be 17"

or 18" for the Tomos 16" wheels, that gives you a bit more rubber and makes them easier to install, cause you have to

stretch the 16"s to get em to fit the Tomos rims.

(CORRECTION - Tomos takes 20"x2.125 size of any bicycle equipment, since bicycle stuff is measured differently.)

They're technically bicycle tubes, but they're very tough, and can self-seal anything up to a major gash, and prolly mostly

seal even that, I have nothing but praise for em, and I should know.

>>What tire brand should I consider... original or some "motorclycle" that the local shop has offered me?<<

The OEM Tires that come on a Targa, plainly...SUCK!

Doubly so if you live in michigan....those half-slicks are good only for fully-paved, smooth, even surfaces, which you just

don't get around here...and they're suicide on snow, mud or grass.

Go buy yourself some Cheng Shin tires, accept no substitute, they're the real-deal.

Try to get the "A" Tread design if you can, but any Cheng Shin tire is pretty damn good.

Your performance in cornering and braking should also improve.

The tires will run you $18-$24 each dependin on where you get them, and the tubes are $6 a pop, so total damage is

around $48-$60...which isn't that bad.

I also reccommend a pair of heavy tire spoons, bicycle ones techically might do, but I've had no luck with the, they tend

to snap in half while changing Tomos tires.

Most cycle shops will have a pair, figure $10-$15 for a set of two.

Hope alla that helps,

==========================================================================

Someone suggested a Tomos Faq...so, here's a prelim, trying to keep to stuff you don't find in the manuals.

Basic Tomos Faq.

Engine Classes, A3 and A5(A35).

Both 50cc, both 38mm x 43mm stroke.

Best to refer to as "A3" or "A5" instead of "A35" to avoid parts confusion.

Transmission fliud - 300cc's (300ml) of Dexron type III is reccommended, but 10w30/10w40 motor oil can also be

used.

The transmission casing screws are 4.2mm hex, good LUCK finding a hexkey that fits, a 4mm will do in a pinch, just

don't strip them out.

Cylinder bolts are 11mm and require a deepsocket.

Be very careful tightening these, they are easy to strip and if that happens, it's a real pain in the arse to fix.

Exhaust bolts are 10mm and one of them is very difficult to get a socket onto, unless you have an angle-socket kit.

Removing the baffle prevents crud backup, adds a negligable performance increase and more aggressive exhaust note.

Carberator is either an Encawri (Old Bullet models) or a DelLorto 14/12, usually with a #51 main jet.

Compression ratio should be 9.1:1 (about 9/1)

Electrical output should be 12v/50W (some older models) or 12v/80W.

Brown wires are ground, black or yellow should be hot leads.

Plug gap should be 0.5mm

Reccommended plugs

Champion = L82C/L86C/L90C (Depends on which book you check)

Bosch = W8AC

NGK = B5HS

Motorcraft = AE4/AE4x/AE6 (depends on book)

Denso = W16-FSU

AC Delco = 422Z

Splitfire = SF409C

Stock tires suck, Cheng Shin (imported via maxxis tire and rubber) makes very good replacement tires that fit well.

BELL self-sealing tubes, 1"-2" oversize, fit Tomos tires and work quite well. (available at walmart)

Chainsaw lube works best on the Tomos drive chain.

The tires are 16" by 2.125", mags or spokes, an ordinary bicycle spoke wrench/tool fits the spokes.

A pair of heavy tire spoons not only come in handy for changing tires, they are also helpful in removing the flywheel.

The A3 and A5 left side transmission covers are interchangeable.

=======================================================================

Whew, that's a lot...

-T

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REPOST - TOMOS INFO

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:17

Tomos Info.

========================

Digits 5 and 6 of the VIN indicate model number.

42 = A3N Sprint

43 = A3N Sprint w/kickstart kit.

44 = A35 Targa

45 = A35 Targa

46 = A35 Targa TT LX

47 = A35 Targa

48 = A35 Targa TT LX w/kickstart kit.

49 = A35 Targa

56 = A35 Sprint TT

They probably also indicate points/CDI ignition type, but I don't have that info.

Horsepower 1.95hp @ 5200 RPM

Torque 3.5 Nm @ 3500 RPM

Fuel Mileage 6 pints/100 Miles

Ignition Advance for STOCK units.

Breaker Points = 1.5mm BTDC

CDI Electronic = 1.5mm BTDC

Breaker Gap 0.35mm-0.45mm

Brake drums are both 90mm Front and Rear.

Fuel Supply Petcock turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE for main tank, CLOCKWISE for reserve.

(so if yours is unmarked, now you'll know.)

Suggested cable lubricant is "Shell Retinax A or LX grease".

Suggested tire pressure-

FRONT= 21 PSI

REAR= 31 PSI

BULBS

=============

Head lamp, 12V 25W/25W dual filament.

Rear light 12V 5W

Brake light 12V 10W

Turn Signal 12V 10W

Horn uses 12V 18W

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INSTRUCTIONS

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:18

Ok, folks, bear with me, since I don't have the parts in front of me, and I am doing this from diagrams (which'll be

included).

Also reccommended is this thread - https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/1/63125/63125/

And finally, I highly reccommend you have a set of new gaskets on hand when you do this, they're paper, and tear

very easily, so if worn, they might just disintigrate on you when you remove them.

Obviously, you should drain the transmission first, and have more fluid at the ready for when you are finished.

Now, firstoff, you have to dismount the transmission, so remove the exhaust at the manifold, THEN, follow the previous

carb removal instructions, so the trans is mostly dismounted.

**IF YOU ARE ONLY WORKING ON CLUTCH AND/OR GEARS, SKIP THIS PART*

Note - if you will be dismantling the flywheel (LEFT, from behind) side, you will also need to remove the drive

sprocket, as is detailed in previous instructions as well.

You will also need to remove the flywheel itself, which should be done with a flywheel puller, but can be done with a

ratchet, a screwdriver, and a pair of tire spoons.

Key to that is to "jam" the flywheel with the screwdriver by putting it through one of the holes next to the bolt, and

lodging it against some part of the casing, but ONLY, if you can see a way to do so without endagering any of the parts

under the flywheel - if you look carefully, where to do so becomes obvious.

Once the flywheel is "jammed" you can remove the bolt easily, and then remove the screwdriver, and wrap an old towel

around the outside of the flywheel.

Slip a pair of tire spoons under the edges of the flywheel, at 180 degrees to each other, so they are cushioned against

the casing by the towel, and you can get to them without risk of damage and/or injury - best way to do this is to set the

transmission side-up and go at it from top and bottom.

Press firmly and sharply against the spoons several times, and the flywheel should come loose enough for you to remove

it, if you've done this right - or you could just buy a flywheel puller.

**CONTINUED*

If you have oil injection, remove the screws holding the cover on the unit, and then the two screws which hold the

injection unit under that cover to the transmission casing.

Remove the washer underneath, and place all those screws and the washer in the cover, so you do not lose them. -

make a note, the "Washer" isn't exactly a washer, it's a thick disk and somewhat obvious in it's function when you look

at it - don't lose it.

Now, find the YELLOW and BLACK power leads coming from the transmission casing, and disconnect them - no real

need to label, since there's only two of em and they're different colors, so you cannot screw up where they go.

Now you must remove the head, which is four 11mm bolts, and you will need an 11mm deep socket to get to them, and

be careful not to strip them, it's all too easy, so if need be use penetrating oil to ease the process.

Slide the head off, and if you wish, remove the piston, it's not entirely necessary, but for safety's sake some folks do -

just use a needlenose pliers to compress one of the circlips and slide it off sideways, then put it in a ziplock freezer bag

so it doesn't get messed up... if you wish, dump the oil injector cover and the bits in it, in there as well, so they do not

get stepped on or lost.

And now... to the transmission itself, if you are LUCKY, the screws holding it together will be flatheads, but if you are

not, they are "allen screws" (needing an allen wrench or "hexkey" to get em out..) and somewhere between 4mm and

5mm, and of VERY soft material, which means they are very, VERY easy to strip, and a right bitch to get out - I do

reccommend that if they are, take them to a hardware store once you get them out, and have them replaced with

flathead screws.

Having a power drill handy to drill them out wouldn't be a bad idea either, since more often than not, I have had to do

so.

Before you start pulling screws, figure out where your problem is, and maybe save yourself some work - if you are

standing behind the transmission, the LEFT side is the flywheel side, and the gears and clutches are on the RIGHT side.

Select which side you wish to work on, and then make sure you have a hold of your temper, because getting those bolts

out, even with penetrating oil, can be at times traumatic.

Once you have them out, gently rock the cover side to side, so as not to tear the gasket, while pulling toward you, you

should be able to get the cover off this way, but if you cannot, make sure the gasket is not in danger of tearing, and use a

rubber mallet and a wooden dowel to gently tap it off.

At this point, you should go get a camera, a notepad and and pen, make SURE you know how it goes together before

you take it apart - descriptions at this point are less helpful than diagrams, and so I have included three of them for you.

Between that, and you own notes, you should be able to figure it out, and if you have trouble let me know.

Also, if you need to get to the crank arm, you will have to dismantle whichever side of the transmission you started with

(I reccommend RIGHT, if possible) and then remove about a half dozen MORE screws, and another gasket to get to it.

In addition, on the casing itself there are bearing rings which help keep the shaft working smoothly - CHECK THESE,

because a damaged one will mean a skewed shaft, and endless problems in short order, so make very sure to check

each one, do NOT assume.

Also, Part # 4 on the crankarm assembly diagram should be replaced if it's the old type, which is two brass plates with

the bearings in between, the upgrade part works MUCH more smoothly and reliably.

And Part # 17 on the pedalarm and drive sprocket diagram, it is VERY important that it rest in a certain place inside the

transmission casing, pointed forward towards the head, and horizontal, you will see the raised portions of the casing it is

supposed to be between when you take the transmission apart, make a note of how it goes, becuase if you screw this

up, you cannot start the engine, and that's quite bad.

The diagrams might be 100% exact, as Tomos seems to have many different models, but in addition to a proper set of

working notes, they should do the job.

Any questions, or problems, let me know, and I will get to you as soon as I can.

-T

Reply To This Message

DIAGRAM ONE

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:19

Attachment: GEAR.jpg

Counter and Main Shaft Assemblies.

Reply To This Message

DIAGRAM TWO

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:20

Attachment: GEAR2S.jpg

Piston Arm and Clutch Shaft Assemblies

Reply To This Message

DIAGRAM THREE

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:22

Attachment: GEAR3S.jpg

Pedal and Main Drive Shaft Assemblies

Reply To This Message

END.

Author: Trike (---.vnburn01.mi.comcast.net)

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:24

No more files follow, and to make this thread easy to find via the SEARCH function (As I have noticed "tomos

boatload" was note...) I will include a reference number for the search engine to catch.

# 1929462174

There ya go, enjoy.

-T

Reply To This Message

Re: Tomos Transmission Specs/Instructions.

Author: stales (206.61.114.---)

Verified User: stales

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:24

You're a gentleman and a scholar T.

Reply To This Message

Re: Tomos Transmission Specs/Instructions.

Author: Frank (---.canadalife.com)

Verified User: mr_bingo

Date Posted: 11-25-02 15:36

Trike,you have out done yourself once more pal.You are a keeper.

Frank

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Re: Tomos Transmission Specs/Instructions.

Author: Kevin Harrell (---.vdsl.bright.net)

Verified User: kiah45601

Date Posted: 04-17-03 22:31

Just bumping this to the top where it is easier to find for those who have not seen it before.

Reply To This Message

Re: Tomos Transmission Specs/Instructions.

Author: Ben (---.nas2.dayton1.oh.us.da.qwest.net)

Verified User: helper_guy

Date Posted: 04-17-03 22:49

Damn I thought Trike came back. Dose any one know how I could contact him and apoligise.

Reply To This Message

Hey Ben

Author: Mope Head (---.asm.bellsouth.net)

Verified User: mope_head

Date Posted: 04-18-03 08:37

Ben,

Try here:

http://scooterbbs.com/cgi-bin/board/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForumID2&conf=DCConfID3

Look for KC Trike.

used in forum posts.

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Re: Old Post

Christian Baekkelund /

This been bumped lately?

Re: Old Post

Just bumping this back up to the top where it can be found.

Re: Old Post

Hi need to kn0ow how to tighten my chain I have a post on here hope to see a reply..

Re: Old Post

Just bumping this to the top where it might be useful.

Re: Old Post &quot;Tomos Boatload&quot;

Can someone just put a link to the original on the wiki? Either that or copy and paste the entire thing, but a link would probably be easier.

Re: Old Post &quot;Tomos Boatload&quot;

Brandon Compton /

bump because this shit is full of knowledge and that is power!

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