Parts or whole. Seems to be locked up. Have not messed with it. Need blue qt 50 covers and battery cover.
Take a closer look at the vin plate on the neck. That's no 1974
I would guess a '77...
I'll check it tomorrow. Busy with a kinetic and beverages in the shop tonight.
That chain tensioner is '78 and up. It's crusty but complete, I wish I was closer because I could always use another project I will never likely get to.
^ You are right, just blew it up and got a look at the headlight switch.
Throw some mystery roll down that spark plug hole and let it sit there for a little while if it seems to be locked up just means that your piston rings are stuck in the cylinder wall by oxidation. After a couple days just keep soaking it keeps choking that you're going to have you might want to remove the engine from the chassis. It only takes a few moments and then you can really work on it on a bench. After removing the spark plug so you don't damage it you can unbolt the head stud bolts. Take the head off in the gas get off and look at the cylinder. The Piston will be stuck inside the cylinder somewhere if it's at top dead center you are going to have to try to turn the Magneto and gently tap on it with like a mallet and a block of wood until the Piston Freeze from the cylinder wall. Now once you start to unfreeze the cylinder and it gets loosened up just make sure you keep oil in the rings and then I would recommend sliding the cylinder off to clean thoroughly and inspect the bottom of the cases. You can use an air compressor to blow out the bottom of the case pretty well. So now you have a bottom end with a piston attached which is now the next step. Looking at the side holes on the Piston which is called the wrist pin hole remove the clips with a pair of needle-nose pliers on both sides. After you remove the clips take the time the oil inside the sleeve and push out the wrist pin. You want to be very careful at this moment because there is what is known as a needle bearing that possibly could be connected to your crank connecting rod. After removing the Piston wrist pin you will either notice a brass sleeve or a needle bearing! The needle bearing is very fragile and could fall apart which is a sign of failure and needs replacing. If your needle bearing looks intact set it aside make sure it has no oxygen oxidation on it the coloring of the needles themselves should be Chrome not pitted as this bearing reduces fatigue in your motor! Next step is the inspect your crank. Inspecting your crank will ensure that the motor will not cause catastrophic damage! Especially if you have an old motor that's really crusty that you want to make sure especially that you replace the bearings and the crankshaft if you have too much play! Many will tell you some place okay but I'm here to tell you that that crankshaft connecting rod is very important because it is what transfers the power from the cylinder to your gears. If you're using stock applications and not trying to race it you can probably get away for some time before the crank it finally gives out but what I've seen is that when you use heavy load which means you are giving it wide open throttle that is a lot of torque on a very important part of your motor so take care of it. If you believe all parts are functional and you're going to run what you brung then you at least have serviced your engine and now can rebuild with either new parts or if you believe your machine is capable of running reassemble. Try to remember things is like how they went into place. When you are ready to tighten down your stud bolts snug them up evenly then tighten them just enough so the washers Crush then you want to do one 90° turn on each in a x pattern! Intake gaskets need to be very tight and any leaking from your intake you will certainly suffer with hard starts hi idols and your fuel to air ratio we'll lean out causing possible damage to your engine. Thank you for taking the time to read my post!
I will see if it will free up when I get a chance. Thanks
I have been disassembling this if anyone wants to offer on any parts. Trying to salvage harnesses intact and such. Rear rim free. Seat, rear fender and tail light. I am going to try and free the engine while in frame.
Just shot you an email. Let me know if you’d prefer a PM.
Didn’t see it. Pm me
Okay. Just sent a PM.
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