Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

Don M /
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If you have no spark at all, more than likely there is something else going on other than the entire magneto needing replacement. Since the usual horn culprit does not apply to Puch/Bosch 5 wire systems, look to other common issues before giving up and replacing what you already have and what may not be broken. A good ohm/multimeter is worth it's weight in gold when diagnosing vintage electrical circuits. If you dont have one, you should really invest in one.

1st, lightly file and clean those points. Use something like rubbing alcohol and a little piece of cloth to make sure there is no remaining dust or rust on them and then hit with some air to make sure.

Since your flywheel is already off, use a ohm meter to verify current is able to flow freely through closed points with minimal resistance and then circuit is fully open once the points are opened manually.

If all is good, install flywheel and use the ohm meter again while testing the open and close function as you turn the flywheel by hand. Make sure you are testing at the wire leads and there is no wires attached to the moped itself. 5 wire systems have internally grounded ignitions so it will not show a open circuit, just a drop in ohms everytime the points close.

If all is good, attach only the ignition wires (see wiring diagram link below) and try again to establish spark.

Just for the record, MOST of the time if the condenser goes bad, you wont loose spark completely. It just looses its ability to hold current and that will cause massive misfires and backfiring.

Here is a link to help you eliminate the condenser just to be 100% sure. You can open up the pdf and print it out for reference.

https://vintagemopeds.net/how-to-diagnose-a-faulty-ignition-condenser/

Here is also a detailed 5 wire diagram.

https://vintagemopeds.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/1976-puch-maxi-5-wire-bosch-magneto.pdf

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