WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

Looking for an OEM Bosch 6V 5-wire stator for my e50 engine. Needs to be complete with points, condenser, etc..

I can pay via PayPal or Venmo, whatever is easiest. Will need shipped to Charleston, SC.

Let me know what you got! (edited)

Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

I have one but the condenser is bad. You need the flywheel also or just the stator?

Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

LSLB: Zach richards /

Not tested but complete. $20 shipped

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Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

Overpriced Parts /

Five wire suck that’s they why puch went to the six wire system, if I were you I’d get a six wire Stator and six wire wiring harness

Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

Hey Ken- what else do I need to convert from a 5 wire to a 6 wire stator? I’ve been restoring this thing for a year and can’t get it to start so I’m about ready to either start it on fire or give up.

The previous owner chucked the harness and setup wiring as follows:

-green/black to ground

-blue to ignition coil positive. Single wire kill switch ground to bars via metal housing to and spliced into blue wire before ignition coil

-yellow to headlight

-green to blue tail light

-gray to white tail light

Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

I’m not sure Alex. Here is what my current setup looks like. Inside of flywheel has some imperfections but I don’t think they are significant enough to cause it not to spark...

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Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

The magnets look alittle ground down... around the stator, was it rubbing?

Re: WTB: Puch e50 5-wire stator

If you have no spark at all, more than likely there is something else going on other than the entire magneto needing replacement. Since the usual horn culprit does not apply to Puch/Bosch 5 wire systems, look to other common issues before giving up and replacing what you already have and what may not be broken. A good ohm/multimeter is worth it's weight in gold when diagnosing vintage electrical circuits. If you dont have one, you should really invest in one.

1st, lightly file and clean those points. Use something like rubbing alcohol and a little piece of cloth to make sure there is no remaining dust or rust on them and then hit with some air to make sure.

Since your flywheel is already off, use a ohm meter to verify current is able to flow freely through closed points with minimal resistance and then circuit is fully open once the points are opened manually.

If all is good, install flywheel and use the ohm meter again while testing the open and close function as you turn the flywheel by hand. Make sure you are testing at the wire leads and there is no wires attached to the moped itself. 5 wire systems have internally grounded ignitions so it will not show a open circuit, just a drop in ohms everytime the points close.

If all is good, attach only the ignition wires (see wiring diagram link below) and try again to establish spark.

Just for the record, MOST of the time if the condenser goes bad, you wont loose spark completely. It just looses its ability to hold current and that will cause massive misfires and backfiring.

Here is a link to help you eliminate the condenser just to be 100% sure. You can open up the pdf and print it out for reference.

https://vintagemopeds.net/how-to-diagnose-a-faulty-ignition-condenser/

Here is also a detailed 5 wire diagram.

https://vintagemopeds.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/1976-puch-maxi-5-wire-bosch-magneto.pdf

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