This is the head that 1977 used to sell. Looking for one to put on my Sachs airsal.
This is the head that 1977 used to sell. Looking for one to put on my Sachs airsal.
https://www.treatland.tv/LC-AC-custom-cut-puch-POLINI-43-5mm-head-super-s-p/custom-head-063.htm
^^^^^ this will be your best bet.....
> Stephen Simmons Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> https://www.treatland.tv/LC-AC-custom-cut-puch-POLINI-43-5mm-head-super-s-p/custom-head-063.htm
>
> ^^^^^ this will be your best bet.....
Didn’t see that, seems like it has less surface area in terms of the water jacket size, which isn’t great, however, those fins are pretty wild.
> Aaron Goldman Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Stephen Simmons Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> >
> https://www.treatland.tv/LC-AC-custom-cut-puch-POLINI-43-5mm-head-super-s-p/custom-head-063.htm
>
> >
>
> > ^^^^^ this will be your best bet.....
>
> Didn’t see that, seems like it has less surface area in terms of the
> water jacket size, which isn’t great, however, those fins are pretty
> wild.
True but I doubt you'll ever find a 77 head...... Good luck though.
Are you worried about the volume of water in the head?
Don't forget about the water that will be in the hose. The length and inner diameter matter, the radiator size and volume capacity matter, using a pump versus thermosyphon..I think that any water cooled head will help. The value is in how quickly you can circulate cooler water into the head, not necessarily the head size. I'm thinking outloud, but isnt that why full H2O cyl/head don't have the biggest possible jackets? (edited)
double post.. (edited)
> Dickie Thompson Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Are you worried about the volume of water in the head?
>
> Don't forget about the water that will be in the hose. The length and
> inner diameter matter, the radiator size and volume capacity matter,
> using a pump versus thermosyphon..I think that any water cooled head
> will help. The value is in how quickly you can circulate cooler water
> into the head, not necessarily the head size. I'm thinking outloud, but
> isnt that why full H2O cyl/head don't have the biggest possible jackets?
My experience with water cooling is currently watercooling computer components. This will be my first watercooled moped.
My concern was that the water block/water jacket on the 1977 head has way more surface area between the hot head and the water running by it.
This would definitely help drawn more head away from the head and into the water.
I am definitely aided by the hose and radiator and of course the pump circulating the water,however, if I had to guess, the 1977 head would cool better just because of the head design. I could be wrong though.
Either way as Stephen said I’m likely going to have to go this route. Even though the dome of the airsal piston doesn’t match the profile for this head.
Also gotta figure out what people use for pumps around here.
I did not use a pump on my track bike, just distilled water and wetter water. I peaked at 280* on a track with short gearing at WOT.
Some people use VW pumps, pitbike, 50-80cc dirtbike pumps.
I think that this will provide sufficient cooling. Maybe the 1977 head would yield better performance, maybe it would be overkill for this application.
Has anyone here used both heads and can weigh in? Also, buy an inline temp gauge on the return line. Bonus points if you run two so you can note down the temp differences.
> Dickie Thompson Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I did not use a pump on my track bike, just distilled water and wetter
> water. I peaked at 280* on a track with short gearing at WOT.
>
> Some people use VW pumps, pitbike, 50-80cc dirtbike pumps.
>
> I think that this will provide sufficient cooling. Maybe the 1977 head
> would yield better performance, maybe it would be overkill for this
> application.
>
> Has anyone here used both heads and can weigh in? Also, buy an inline
> temp gauge on the return line. Bonus points if you run two so you can
> note down the temp differences.
>
Interesting, so were you going with a thermosiphon setup?
Regardless of using a pump or not the temperature of the fluid throughout the loop should level out. You need to find the Δ of the water to figure out how much cooling you're getting from your loop and how efficient that is.
Running a temp gauge before and after the radiator shouldn't show any difference (between the two) after the motor has been running long enough for the loop to equalize. That's why you're non-pumped setup worked, just a bit less so. You certainly get better cooling with flow but in the end the heat should one getting passed evenly through the loop.
My main reason for doing this is to cool the head/ cylinder so I can then efficiently water-cool the clutch area of the Sachs 505 motor I have. (edited)
> Aaron Goldman Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > Dickie Thompson Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > I did not use a pump on my track bike, just distilled water and wetter
>
> > water. I peaked at 280* on a track with short gearing at WOT.
>
> >
>
> > Some people use VW pumps, pitbike, 50-80cc dirtbike pumps.
>
> >
>
> > I think that this will provide sufficient cooling. Maybe the 1977 head
>
> > would yield better performance, maybe it would be overkill for this
>
> > application.
>
> >
>
> > Has anyone here used both heads and can weigh in? Also, buy an inline
>
> > temp gauge on the return line. Bonus points if you run two so you can
>
> > note down the temp differences.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> Interesting, so were you going with a thermosiphon setup?
>
> Regardless of using a pump or not the temperature of the fluid
> throughout the loop should level out. You need to find the Δ of the
> water to figure out how much cooling you're getting from your loop and
> how efficient that is.
>
> Running a temp gauge before and after the radiator shouldn't show any
> difference (between the two) after the motor has been running long
> enough for the loop to equalize. That's why you're non-pumped setup
> worked, just a bit less so. You certainly get better cooling with flow
> but in the end the heat should one getting passed evenly through the
> loop.
>
> My main reason for doing this is to cool the head/ cylinder so I can
> then efficiently water-cool the clutch area of the Sachs 505 motor I
> have.
Yup, it had lopped off about 100* of temp compared to air cooled. That's a wet clutch, right? Why not just run the oil through a radiator too?
After talking with J-bot who has tried an oil cooler, it would seem the effects are negligible if the rest of the engine isn't being cooled significantly. The properties of Aluminum mean the motor is going to share the heat somewhat universally. Obviously the head will be the hottest but cooling just the oil doesn't seem to work in that case.
I'm hoping to cool the cylinder/head and then run a water block (separate loop maybe? depends on strength of pump and rad size I can fit) under the clutch to cool it via heat transfer. I was hoping to use a copper CPU water block from a computer but the copper and aluminum case will react so it will have to be an aluminum waterblock which is kinda poopy. Copper extracts the heat about twice as well as aluminum.
Amazingly enough I have found the 1977 head!!! Huzzah!
> Aaron Goldman Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Amazingly enough I have found the 1977 head!!! Huzzah!
HELL YEAH!
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