FS:Serious performance hobbit.extra sauce on side

Andy Haldeman /
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a seriously fast moped, never gpsd but if it doesnt hit an easy 65 then theres something terribly wrong with the world. And Im not talking about typical mopedtalk 65. Real 65. plus. I built this for MAML but since that never happened I kinda lost ambitition. No lights. Straight race. I do have a light rig to be run off a battery but never wired it up. Heres a basic rundown:

-hobbit cases

-Athena 47.3mm kit, ported with massive massive transfers and mildly ported

-Motomatic N8P for hobbit

-1977 hobbit racing crank

-SKF bearings


-TJT variator

-cut down TJT spring in rear pulley

-Gates AX belt

-lathed down clutch bell for less weight and more vario range

-heavy ass red clutch springs

-custom milled head for athena kit by Graham mottzing, decomp plugged

-studs tapped and threaded to convert to m7

-custom reedblock milled out of aluminum to accept any gila reeds.

-malossi vl6 reeds

-custom shorty 24mm intake.

-mikuni tm24

-quickpull throttle, new domino levers.

-magura low rise bars

-vintage red Italian shocks from 77

-front 5 star, new brake pads

-Powdercoated and relaced rear wheel, new brake pads

-Sava mc11s

-shiny new stainless hardware on everything

Now for the frame:

-stainless 2 crossbar

-subframe is boxed with stainless sheet for strength,

Extra reinforcements made at key stresspoints.

-engine mount moved back about 5 inches,

This stretches it out and allows the 24 mm carb

To sit right under the frame and as close to the crankcase as possible

-3 adjustable rear shock positions to raise or lower rear end.

-rebuilt forks with new head bearing.

-seat mount cut and lowered.

There are a couple things to know: the head that I got custom cut ended up being the wrong bore size, so I had to dremel out another mm or so to clear te piston crown, it works fine but its not as pretty as it would be. I will include a fresh derbi head thats filed out to fit the studs, decomp sealed, ready to be cut for squish and comp preferences. Also the rear wheel has a little visible wobble to it. Ive never felt it from riding, but people have told me that its noticeable from behind. You can investigate the cause if youd like. I dont think its too important so I never did anything about it.

Heres the kicker. Ive got about $1700 wrapped up in this build from top to bottom. Youre looking at, fir what its worth, a brand new moped build with probably around 150 miles on everything. Ill sell to the first person with $1200, or $1000 without the HPI. Dont even try to lowball, I wont sell for a dime less than that, because it

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