Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

I feel the need for speed but this is a tricky balance, including in the wallet. Only $20-$30 difference in the 60cc and 70cc kits. Is the 60cc kit made because the 70cc kit can cause more harm and people may want to go faster without breaking other vital engine components? Mine was modified before these bolt on kits. Doing the math I am at ~55cc, 15mm carb, 68 or 70 jet (can't remember) and I just slapped on a BiTurbo. The heavy Magnum with me (200lbs.) maintain 40-43mph on the flats. $300+ for 5-10mph more? I guess with age comes caution. Perhaps a more reliable system will emerge if mopeds become more/as popular as they once were.

Anyone know any tricks to adjusting the shift range on the Puch two-speeds? I am guessing that it is centrifigal but I never tore it apart yet.

Looking to start a chapter in the southern Ohio region. Mail me if interested in joining at havok@fuse.net and include chapter name ideas.

Nick

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

i don't know much about puch. but 40-43mph is a good speed for a moped. i've heard too many stories about people using 70cc kids and seizing engines. i don't think it's worth it, personally. but moped bill in kzoo seems happy w/ his 70cc puch. but this is second try ... the first seized an engine ....

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

SteelToad /

I'm very happy with my 70cc. Does 50 mph on the flats (thats all we have in Delaware) before it's starts to 4 cycle or rev limit. I cant tell which, but it doesn't

sound good.

If you've got a biturbo and a good carb setup, I would say try putting in a 27 tooth

sprocket. It's good for a little extra top end and may accomplish the same feel as

the trans shift change you want to do. Plus, it's cheap.

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

The trick for me is to find that balance of power and speed. The Cincinnati area must be alot more hilly than Delaware. I have already changed the rear sprocket to (Don't feel like going to the garage and counting the teeth) a smaller one. If memory serves I am 6 teeth smaller than the stock one. It does alright except on extreme uphill slopes. If I could get the tranny to NOT shift until ~20mph then it would pull the hills better.

Nick

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

Hi NICK, the performance parts will start coming down in price, Mopedwarehouse in NJ a great place to do bussiness, said they had some performance exhaust, kits, ect. coming in soon (few weeks) really not sure exactly what all there getting in but says they will be alot better priced... Thanks Doug D.

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

SteelToad /

I'm guessing you don't have a Tomos. I don't see how I can change the rear

sprocket and leave room for the chain. As it is, I'm looking at having a 30-34

tooth sprocket made as an experiment.

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

Nope. 1983 Puch Magnum II, my 14th birthday present.

Nick

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

Hi,Nick! I'm a fellow southern Ohioan(30 mi.east and south of Chillicothe,but I wouldn't be any help to a club.Just too old and strapped down,unless the club were local.There's a guy named Greg Kaufmann in Chillicothe that seems pretty nice and I think he might have some connection to Moped.org.I can get his e-mail for you if you'd like.I have a shop manual for 2-speed Puch Magnum if you don't have one.I don't know if it covers clutch shifting adjustment,but it might.BYE!

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

mike hartel /

try puch.net

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

Thanks Don. I'd love to see the manual for it and also contact anyone interested in opening a chapter here in Ohio. Your reply to this thread shows your interest in this passion. Sometimes that is all it takes. I am 34, married with children. I doubt that I would be able to attend face to face meetings or rallies.

The interent can fill that gap. I am suprised that there isn't a weekly or monthly IRC or chatroom get together with this club. Perhaps we could organize one. :) Let's get a chapter going and I'll get a channel registered for that purpose. Especially for us northerners who wait for 40+ degrees in the spring to take that first spring ride. The meetings would fill the gap through the cold months. :)

Nick

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

Pooper Stink /

Here's something to consider when thinking about performance parts. I know it's a big consideration when you hear that it wears the engine faster (believe me - I resisted as long as I could) but there are some un-spoke of benefits too.

1.If you already have a performance pipe (and I hope a re-jetted carb.) you are already "damaging" your engine. The pipe widens and increases the power band on your bike by supercharging the engine from the exhaust side, instead of intake side. You are now running the engine at higher rpm's and have leaned out the mixture by the addition of compressed air, which creates more heat, etc., etc., and leads to more engine wear. So you are already "damaging" your engine more than it was design to.

2.You probably already ride at full throttle for long periods of time (An unfair assumption but why would you be looking to go faster if you weren't). If this is the case, you are pushing your engine to the furthest point of what it was designed to do. Now, if you replace the cylinder, cylinder head, and piston with a standard bolt on kit (with a stock exhaust), you now have an engine that was designed to have more power. More power means quicker acceleration and that you can power higher gears (= more speed). This setup is now designed to go at these higher speeds and will work accordingly.

3.Now here is the problem....You take that higher power engine and put on the performance exhaust, and all of a sudden you can ask more of the engine than it was designed to do...but it still will. My point here being that you could do this with the 50cc engine also, but you didn't seem to be too worried.

4.Performance parts require a lot of messing with to get dialed in. i.e., you will need a larger carb that you will have to re-jet etc., etc. The thing is, there is very little documentation that says "put this pipe with this big-bore kit, with this carb., with this jetting at this elevation." It takes a lot of heartbreak (my experience only) to get it right.

5.If you do get the thing dialed in, it won't do any more damage than you were willing to do by adding the performance pipe.

6.(Not that I'm rich at all) but parts are "relatively" cheap for mopeds. I think cylinders at around $50 and pistons are say $20. And having an engine rebored costs less than $50. Just remember it's an investment and fifty bucks ever two years for a rebore isn't that bad considering how much fun you had and how much you saved in gasoline. I say do it. It's great to feel like a grease monkey. Good luck.

Puch Tank Leakage

Mike Skinner /

I've recently bought a 1980 Puch maxi K for

Re: Stock vs. 60cc vs. 70cc

Hi,Nick! If you`re determined to keep the higher geared (less teeth)sprocket on the rear,I'd go ahead with the 70cc kit. Then to protect your gearbox from the extra strain,substitute the regular lube oil with the equivalent in fully synthetic.With the extra power you gain you won't care so much how soon it shifts down.But you've got to break the new kit in right! Be patient and don't go full throttle for more than 20 seconds at a time.And don't use 2-cycle synthetic until you have 300 mi. on that 70cc kit! BYE!

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