Hey,
I just got an old Batavus starflite. I was told that they were made in a 25, 30, and 35 mph version. Pretty sure i got the slower one. Does anybody know the difference between the models, and any alterations i could make to bump it up? I've done some exhaust work, but i keep wondering about putting another engine on if its possible..need some more low end torque!!! I'd appreciate help. Steve
<b>If</b> you have a compression tester you can try removing the head gasket (between the cylinder head and the cylinder) if your moped has one. Measure the compression before and after to see if doing this makes your cylinder leak --if it does, put the gasket back.
Removing the gasket will increase your compression ratio (by making the compression chamber a wee bit smaller) and might give you a bit more oomph.
Chris.
to find out what version u have, count the number of teeth on the disk that the belt and chain are conected to
11 teeth is 20mph
12 teeth is 25mph
13 teeth is 30mph
im pretty sure thats the way it goes
lates Shmiv
Hi! I just bought one also(1978 Starflite,but not top-tank model) and I'm waiting for my manual to arrive from MOPEDWAREHOUSE. They cut me a fine deal on a shop manual for it,I think.(15.00 + 3.50 shipping). I sure hope mine is the fastest version. I've been riding my MOTOMARINAS and I haven't had time to check this one out.SHMIVER, I'm hoping you'll help me out on this BATAVUS if I need it.Thanks for the info!BYE!
The Laura engine doesn't have a head gasket (at least not the ones I've had apart). I shaved .080 off the head to increase the compression on my Batavus. That translated into quicker throttle responce and overall snap to the engine.
I made an arbor that threads into the spark plug hole and was long enough to chuck in the lathe. I usually like to keep about .100 gap between the top of the piston and the end of the spark plug. With the head off bring your piston up to top dead center. Take a straight edge and verify that the piston dome just comes to the top of the jug. If it goes beyond the top of the jug measure that distance and make a note of it. Next, with the spark plug threaded tight into the head take a depth mike and measure the distance from the gasket surface (if it had a gasket) and the end of the spark plug. Make a note of this measurement because this is the distance you are going to modify. Take that distance minus the .100 gap, minus the piston height and you have the distance that you can shave off the head. I've had some heads that only needed .060 to bring them into my .100 gap limit. With the added compression you generate more heat so don't go to extremes and shave to much off the head. I'd start off by shaving .040 and see how it runs. The nice thing about this modification is that it is reverable in that you can add a shim the thickness of what you removed from the head if you want to go back to original. Mark the head with the amount you took off so that you remember that the head has been modified and by how much. I use a felt tip marker until achieve my final shaving and then I stamp it into the underside of the head. Check your spark plug after you've run the engine for awhile because sometimes you have to drop down to a cooler plug.
Good luck. If it ain't broke, you're not trying hard enough.
Brian
Lamborn's Miniature Engines
Steve,
You can always try converting to alcohol. You'll need to replace some gaskets and hoses...anything that's not compatable with alcohol. Silicone works best. I've got a 23cc chinsaw engine I've converted and it's up at around 6.5 hp at 12,000 rpm. It is more expensive to run but what a zip!!!!! I guess it all depends on how far your willing to go.
Richard
Hersteller:
FA.Intercycycle bicle and Motorcyle Works
Es fehlen mir die Abdeckkappen f
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