Changing the tension in your clutch springs will give you more oomph for take off, but won't affect your acceleration once the clutch is fully engaged (i.e. you're rolling more than 5mph). Still, it's always nice to have a quick shot of acceleration when the light turns green.
I imagine that your clutch might wear out faster too, especially when you are starting up a hill from a standstill.
To heck with wear on the clutches...a higher stall speed (as it's referred to in cars) will only destroy your drive train. It'd be like popping the clutch on a car every time you take off...not real good. Internal things will get loose in a hurry and will probly fail when you need it most. I have a 2800 rpm torque converter in my hot rod and it's fun when ya wanna burn out or get goin in a hurry, but most of the time it's just a pain in the ass...sounds like the tranny's about to fly out of the car. I just seriously doubt a ped's system is tuff enuff to handle that kinda abuse. Just a word of caution...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the clutch still engage slowly, only later? The springs still do the same thing they'd do at a lower RPM, don't they?
I modified one of my Peugeots to take off at a higher RPM and it just went against my personal sense of aesthetics. I drive a standard car (and will never own an automatic as long as I have four working limbs) and I just couldn't stand the sound of the clutch engaging at high RPM --it takes a long time before full engagement occurs because the engine isn't powerful enough to sustain the high RPMs. I got a whole bunch of revving as I took off, but as the clutch fully engaged, the RPMs would drop back down. I, personally, don't find there is much of an advantage in setting a moped's clutch to wait longer to grab --the engine just isn't powerful enough to sustain the high torque for more than a few seconds.
I agree with Lane, the high revving start isn't worth the wear and tear on your moped.
Well thanks for the advice. Guess I
I changed springs in my Minarelli clutch and it didn't make any improvement.
Gears, pipes, and race kits seem the way to go.
you can try this
I agree with what these guys said... that for a pretty stock moped there is not much point in doing the typical dragracing clutch mod... Remember .. those dragracers are using components built for dragracing... built to take the abuse... and they only run their engines for 8 seconds at a time.
I was just using that analogy to illustrate a point.
However.... You could possibly try something to experiment, if you would like to.
And you won't be harming anything... and could always put it back to stock.
What you could do (if there is space for them) is drill another spring anchoring hole in the shoes just a tiny(!) bit farther away than the stock one... which would give the effect of a stronger spring.
You could then ride it and decide if you liked the harder "hit' off the start.
The bad news is that you still have the same HP and gear ratio... so there won't be much gain.
Thank the US Gov. rules... they said... "No gearboxes on peds!" and "Low HP".
Hi! I was just going to mention that this problem can be caused by a clutch drum which is not truly flat-fitting with the shoes,needing to be turned like a brake drum for example.If this is your problem,you'll need new clutch shoes anyway,so if you can afford about 80.00 dollars,you might just order a new clutch drum and shoes from someone like AKRON MOPED or HANDY-BIKES(614-299-0550). One other thing that fouls up sometimes is the spring tension of one shoe gets out of sync. with the other one,OR the shoe pins can get badly worn and let the whole mechanism wallow around.If you do decide to get a new clutch assembly,also replace the bearings (usually sleeve bushings or needle bearings) . I hope you solve the problem! BYE!
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