MOPED ARMY

No, I just rode it home as is. When I got the kit, the intake was the wrong size

at the carb end. I epoxy'd it together thinking it would take the strain of the

bumps. To be fair, I've given it some pretty good bumps though.

Prior to this weekend it was running nice and smooth, and the carb was

attached firmly.

It is idling faster because the loose carb or manifold is acting like an open throttle.

When you open the throttle you let more air in and RPM rises.

Same here.

The bad news is that it is an open throttle with no fuel to go with it.

Which means leanness.

Which means a seizure.

Air leaks between the carb and engine means an almost garaunteed seizure if the leak is big enough.

If you made it home alright you probably didn't damage anything though.

Fix it before you ride it.

Fred,

Not second guessing you, had a phone call while answering this and did not see your post.

Ron

You are correct, the carb fits over the intake pipe. When I got the kit, the intake

was made to the wrong spec's, and I didn't want to wait a couple of months for

the right part. The intake was actually a little too small, and tapered. I'll check

now that I'm down to see if the right intake is in stock now, if not, maybe a better

epoxy job, or find a better way to permanently fix the two together.

Untill your correct intake arrives, this patch job might work:

take an aluminum can (Bud works for me) and cut it into a 1 inch strip,

wrap this around your intake untill the O.D. of the wrap matches the I.D. of your carb,

hold in place with a piece of tape until you slide your carb on,

then tighten the clamp, just be careful not to tear the rubber carb/manifold seal.

an aluminum tape is also availible at the auto parts, (not duct tape, it must be a metallic tape because of the heat) This will last better than epoxy.

good luck, Steel Toad

That sounds like what I did. I used Teflon tape to fill the gap, tightened down the

clamp, and epoxy'd the connection to help hold it all together.

I don't have a soft rubber gasket, but a harder white plastic bushing (hate it)

Heat is not a problem, In fact the edges of the fins on the cylinder are cool

enough to put your hands on even after a long ride.

Wow, 120 mph ! and I've got an extra 20cc's to work with :-)

Lets get wacky ! ! !

These are the class records for 50cc engines at the Bonneville Salt Flats

I thought the 121.7mph is also the World record...(notice the year !)

but its not

The World record was set somewhere in Europe at about 134MPH

The class designations stand for such things as.....

stock motor, modified motor, stock frame, mod frame, streamlining, no streamlining, gasoline, other fuel, turbocharging, no turbo.....etc.

The 31mph one is a 'sidecar'.

I know the "Wagner" entry's dad... and have raced against him many times.

The Wagner mentioned here is his daughter.

They (father and daughter team) actually own about 10 or more Bonnevile records in the smaller displacement classes.

50 Cubic Centimeters (Approx. 3 Cubic Inches)

CLASS.......... DRIVER..................Manuf............ YEAR... SPEED

P-P T............. Wagner.................. Aprilia ................

Knowledge??...hell... I just make this shit up as I go... : )

Keep in mind that these aren't really peds.. they are full on small motorcycle engines... and the really high numbers are by pure prototype items never available for sale.

Probably one of the most interesting 50cc engines that I am aware of was a 3 cylinder 2 stroke with 11 speed gearbox (if I remember right) Suzuki Grand Prix roadracer in about "63" or so.

... and you thought your piston was small.

I can get it above 50, but it will call it quits there. I think the revs can only go so

high. My acceleration isn't phenomonal, but then again, I put in a 27 tooth sprocket

and was willing to sacrafice acceleration for top end because I live somewhere

almost totally flat. I can force it into a wheelie with hard acceleration and leaning

back quickly while I do it. I've only done that a couple of times because quite

frankly it scares the shit out of me.

DISCLAIMER:

You will get a lot of opinions from people telling you not to put the 70 kit in

because it will trash the engine. I'm not going to disagree with their logic, but I

have not had any problems. It may very well be that it will blow up on me yet.

I think the fact that I put the kit on a new ped with a new engine may make the

difference. All that said, I love the additions to the bike. I would suggest that you

start with just the BiTurbo, and if you want pure acceleration, get the 25 tooth

sprocket. Have fun

You are right about the mileage. I was getting the rated 130 before the mod's,

and what I read said I should expect about 90 afterwards. Well, that is exactly

what I get. If I drive 85 miles, I KNOW that I will be switching over to reserve.

I have a little red gallon can and a bungee cord on the luggage rack when I go

out.

As far as trimming goes to make it all work, heres what I found.

I had to trim (shorten) the throttle cable that came with the kit and grind down the

stopper that goes into the choke slide to make it fit correctly.

Remove the old kickstand and put in a side stand to stop the grinding noise

vibrating throught the BiTurbo on a sharp right hand turn.

The cylinder body needed some "refinement" with the dremel tool to make

everything fit smooth and flush (just because I'm picky)

I used 6mmx20 bolts instead of studs to fasten the exhaust (I like them better)

The 2 piece BiTurbo didn't line up with the rear hanging bracket just right, so I cut

about 1 inch of galvanized steel and made a little adapter to bolt it all together

The clamp to join the two Biturbo halves sucked, so I had it welded.

My carb and intake didn't match so I rigged them (too impatient to wait for the

right part) It has since fallen apart and needs to be fixed again

Putting in the 27 tooth sprocket meant grinding down part of one of the reinforcing

ribs in the tranny cover (no big deal).

The bigger carb meant that I had to cut off half of the metal tab that the engine's

serial number is stamped into

It's hard for me to say. First of all, there are NO hills where I am so the only test

I could do is to see if the ped can make it up the local boat ramp (which it can)

I can tell you that the BiTurbo increased my takeoff more than the 27 tooth

took away. I put them both on and noticed that I took off faster. I was worried

about the slower takeoff with the extra tooth. I think the sprocket makes a

pretty significant difference, and If I lived in a hilly area I think I would definately

step down to 25 tooth. I'm setup for top end only so I can't really help

As a side note: As soon as I get an electric start ped for my wife and I can play

with this one unrestricted :~) I plan on moving upto 30 teeth or more as an

experiment. I figure I will have to modify the trans case significantly, and relocate

the electronics, and probably pedal to start it. But my curiosity is aroused.

Not till the end of summer though, dont want to trash it with prime riding weather

approaching.