1981 PA50II

Rob /
Apr 14, 2001 10:39PM

Hi all, rescued it from under a friends cottage. After semi sorting out the usual starting, bogging, flat tires, drive belts, adding an extra hole to the muffler,

it goes good. (Most times). I'm down to the fine points......could someone tell me the point gap?

Also, are the lights wired in series..so if the headlight blows (I noticed the filiment floating around in the bulb) the tail light stops working too? There's no battery or turn sigs on this model, sounds like some of the pa50's had these.

Thanks in advance. The thing is a hoot!

Rob

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Re: 1981 PA50II

Chris Robertson /
Apr 15, 2001 06:58PM

Hi Rob:

I completely rebuilt my 1982 PA50II last fall. I think I can answer most of your questions:

1. Set the point gap using the index markers on the flywheel (the T and F). The gap isn't so important as when the points actually open. For the most part, however, if the engine is running smoothly, your points are set correctly. Alternately, use the cigarette paper method. Both of these methods are described in Fred's message titled "How to Fix Your Moped".

2. There's no battery on your PA-50 because it's a North American edition. Some countries (Germany I think is one) require turn signals; so the PA-50s sold there had a battery to drive the signals.

3. The lights are not wired in series. I've had problems with my tail light too. I think the wiring on PA-50s doesn't age well. The best compromise I've managed is to get the taillight to work with no brake light. You might want to check the switches in your brake lever too.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Chris.

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Re: 1981 PA50II

rob /
Apr 16, 2001 09:24PM

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your responce, I set the points with the paper, runs better. The lights.....I replaced the two 6v bulbs with 12v ones in the tail lights...did'nt last long. I suspect that with no batt theres no voltage regulater except for the load on the system. With the head light shot the rear bulbs get too much juice. I'm off to the honda man to order a full set of bulbs for the beast. With luck that should cure the light problem.

A question of belts.....honda wants $60 Cdn for a belt, I found a belt for $8, its a drive belt for a table saw (I think). Is the dealer belt worth the extra $$$? Last one I used was an automotive belt I had laying around but only lasted a couple of hundred clicks. Any idea as to how many miles/klicks to a dealer belt?

Got the beast to move my 220Lb self at 45kph on a flat, 55 downhill. Respectable eh?

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Re: 1981 PA50II

Chris Robertson /
Apr 16, 2001 11:30PM

Hi Rob!

So you're Canadian? Where do you live? I'm in Ottawa, myself.

I agree that sixty bucks is awful steep for a measly belt. Have you called other Honda motorcycle dealers in your area to see if they might have better prices?

Any belt you find that is as similar in width and diameter to the original will work, but, of course, OEM parts are always best. NOTE: Since PA-50s have variators, the width of the belt is VERY important! I bought a washing machine belt at Canadian Tire once, and it worked poorly because it was narrower than the OEM belt.

You can always try shouting out for a belt on the classifieds section of this site, or www.moped.org. Keep your eyes open on Ebay as well.

Your moped isn't supposed to have a battery (unless it has turn signals). Look for a short somewhere in the moped. Sometimes the connection to the resistor next to the horn (the green thing) gets loose. Check that.

I'll be posting instructions on how to modify PA-50 variators tomorrow. You should be able to hit at least 50km/h on level ground once you do this.

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Re: 1981 PA50II

Rob /
Apr 16, 2001 11:59PM

Hello again Chris;

I'm almost in Oshawa (about 50kms, your side of Toronto). I've diddled with the weights in the variator, tried some ball bearings out of a front CV joint from a car axle. Covered them with 'shink tube' so as not to damage the alunimum (whatever :) ) housing. They weighed roughly double the original ones. Go a little more top end, but had to pedal to start off, Soooo, I filled the original ones with solder. I'm sure I got another half klick or so, I think ;). Although it seems to pull smother for all my efforts. Havent taken the rear one apart yet to see if I can at least buff up the shaft the 'halfs'? slide togeather on.

I'll look for the resistor tomorrow, seems like a good place to put it where it can get cooled right up front. Say, what oil/gear lube goes in the rear hub? Sure looks like a filler plug on the left. Ahhh belts, lucky for me the first belt I bought was too wide....so we were forced to figure them out. I got reading an old ski-doo manual, its much the same idea. I was wondering since the belt wears on the sides if the dealer belt had an advantage.

I'll look for your post tomorrow (would'nt have a wiring diagram eh?), it's now become a challange to keep this thing going. I'm still amazed that my lawn mower is 5hp and the Honda is 2hp. It's a hoot, even get the odd Harley rider that waves,

Cheers

Rob

GO Leafs Go.................:)

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PA-50 Schematic

Chris Robertson /
Apr 22, 2001 12:00PM

Hi Rob:

I've attached a schematic for your PA-50.

I'm not sure how long the OEM belts are supposed to last, but mine shows no sign of giving out after 10000+km.

The gearbox on the rear wheel takes 75cc (ml) of SAE #90 gear oil (you can buy a [moped's] lifetime supply at Canadian Tire for a few bucks). Drain out the old oil, and then put a measured amount of new oil in. You are right about the location of the filler/drain plug on the left of the bike.

You also might want to make sure the connections to your rectifier (the little black box with the three wires) are good; the schematic I attached will help you with that.

Have you tried the variator mod I described in a separate post a few days ago? It should give you some more top end.

Chris.

pa-50_schematic.GIF
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