This is a copy of all useful/relevant posts on the subject.
I really should cut it to a FAQ, but don't have the time right now.
HELP, I NEED TO GET THE CARB OUTTA MY #%^$$%#^&@ TOMOS !!
Ah, the age-old cry of the Tomos owner, upon discovering there's NO FRIGGIN WAY to get to that damn carb without (it appears) dismantling half the damn moped...
Well, actually, it's not that bad, you just hafta know how to do it.
Firstoff, Loosen and/or remove the bolt on the side holding the exhaust on...I would not mess with the one's holding the exhaust to the cylinder tho, cause they're a pain in the ass to get off and on...so just the side bolt.
Now, remove both side panels, the ones with that rubber strip on top...shouldn't be too hard.
Now, (trust me) loosen the REAR wheel and dismount the chain from it, but do not REMOVE the rear wheel...you just want tons of slack in the chain, you will see why.
Next, get a phillips screwdriver, a medium flathead, a tiny flathead and a pair of 13mm deep sockets on a pair of ratchets...tho if you only have one ratchet you can use a 13mm crescent/box-end, or even visegrips. - and a small bowl to hold nuts, bolts and screws so you can find em later.
Also, have the socket kit handy.
Next, disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug, and the two wires coming out of the transmission casing from the electrical system, this is so you do not tear them - and the connectors are easy to find and disconnect...if both are the same color (yellow/yellow instead of yellow/black or grey/black) you might wanna use some kinda marking system so you know which one goes back to which.
Now, shut off the fuel and using the flathead screwdriver, remove the fuel intake screw and move it out of the way, take the bolt out and put it in the bowl so's ya don't lose it.
Now, find the three 13mm bolts holding the engine on...and make sure you know where the kickstand mount bolt is too, cause it's WAY too damn easy to unbolt that by accident instead of the lowest engine mount bolt...so make sure you know where all four are...and which THREE hold the engine on.
Now, Loosen the top TWO bolts and remove the nut from the other side...holding that nut in place is what the second ratchet/wrench/visegrips is for.
Get an unsharpened pencil and push the bolts as far through as you can, then rap it with the wrench, that way you pop em out and don't strip em.
Now watch yourself, cause right here the engines held on by one bolt..see..
Get one hand under the bottom of the cylinder, where the exhaust goes in and gently loosen that last bolt as you ease it down, the slack in the chain should allow you go pretty far, but do NOT let it...your oil-injection and throttle cable lines are still attached, and thats our next job.
Ease it down only far enough to get a...oh hell, it's between 6mm and 9mm, the bolt holding the oil-injection thingie on, but damned if I remember...just be ready, and ease it down only far enough to get to it, then loosen and remove it.
Now, use a tiny straighedge screwdriver to remove the two small screws on top of the carb, and pull the throttle cable assembly out...and make SURE to see exactly how it goes together before that damn spring pops the whole works sideways.
NOW, you can let it down, and if you've done the rear wheel/chain trick right, the chain is looped around the back axle instead of the sprocket, and you should have sufficient room...
Next, use a flatedge screwdriver to loosen the screw just shy of the manifold, and then see if you can loosen the screw holding that black rubber widget on the back of the carb too, if you cannot get to it, try working it around where you can.
Now, get your fingers in there and get the rubber thingie off to make room for our next trick.
Grab the carb and pull it away from the manifold while rotating back and forth...there's VERY little room there to do it, cause it sits in a cutout of the transmission casing, but it should come back and off without any more hassle - if you cannot master this trick, just remove it at the manifold.
Anyhow, now you have a carb...set it gently down where it won't get dirty or mangled and GO WASH YOUR HANDS...having just found out how much of a bitch it is to get that carb out...do you really wanna put it all back together only to have to dismount it again and clean it ?
Treat this like surgery, you don't want to risk even a SPECK of dirt in there!
Now, having returned with clean hands, take the tiny flathead screwdriver you removed the cabr top screws with...and remove the bowl on the bottom of the carb, nice and easy...and yes, some gas will spill out, that's normal.
Once that plastic bowl is off, Viola! that brass bit in the center of the bottom of the carb? that's the main jet...use the medium flatedge to remove it, and replace it with your new jet.
Now screw the bowl back on and pray, really hard, that you didn't get any sand/dirt/grit in there...or just have the carb cleaned by someone who knows what they're doin.
You can reverse mosta this to get it back together, save to mention a few things.
First, that black plastic/rubber bit on the back of the carb...has to go over the plastic tube behind where the carb goes...best way to do that is to slowwwly lift the engine one-handed back into place as you use the medium flathead to make sure this happens....be quite prepared for a LOT of frustration, this tricks hard till you master it.
Also, getting the top of the carb back into requires you to know how the damn thing goes back together, so you'd best make sure you know, have a diagram handy if you have one....the L-shaped piece points to the rear wheel, and the round part of the slide does too.
The cable goes through the middle of the spring, not over/under it.
It's hell to describe, so get a diagram, ok ?
I know alla this sounds ultra complicated and a hassle, but dude...I can do it in under eight minnits, often even less (ask Fred, he's seen it) - it's just a matter of getting it down pat...and believe me, as a Tomos owner...YOU WILL.
Oh yes young skywalker...you WILL know...
@ Champion = L82C/L86C/L90C (Depends on which book you check)
@ Bosch = W8AC
@ NGK = B5HS
? Motorcraft = AE4/AE4x/AE6 (depends on book)
# Denso = W16-FSU
? AC Delco = 422Z
# Splitfire = SF409C
? = Performance unknown.
@ = Known solid performer.
# = Not reccommended by me.
Plug gap should be 0.5mm in any case.
Ok, imma typin this from memory, so if I screw up anywhere, fill in for me, ok ?
Normally I don't remove the chain except to switch it over when doin this, but it's up to you.
Firstoff - remove the left pedal, don't ask why, just do it.
Now find a hex-key that fits the damn transmission-casing screws, should be 4-5mm, and there should be about 5 or 6 screws on the left hand side...make sure to remove only the ones holding that cover on, unless you like sitting in a puddle of transmission fluid.
Now...go get a big adjustable wrench, a flat edge screwdriver, an unsharpened #2 pencil, a rubber mallet, and a broom.
I know it sounds a mite ridiculous, but it works.
Jam the rear wheel with the broom, just stick it through the mags so the wheel will not turn real far...
Now, there's a large nut holding the sprocket on, but to get to it, you hafta deal with this little plate that's bent up at one side of it....you stick the screwdriver in there, assisted if need be by a little rubber-mallet action, and get it to where you can use the pencil and the mallet to flatten it out of the way so you can get the wrench on it.
Once you've done that, and put the wrench on it, figure out which it goes...I think it might be reverse-threaded, so you might have to turn it to the right to loosen it...make sure of that first, however.
(and this is why you jam the back wheel with a broom, see?)
Anyhow, between a little gorilla-arming and some more rubber-mallet frenzy, you should be able to get that nut loose...spin it all the way off and slip it over the left pedal arm.
Now gently pull that plate off, try not to mess it up or bend it too bad cause it hasta go back on there....slip that over the pedal arm too.
Now you just do the same thing with the sprocket, it should come right off but if it don't a couple light taps of screwdriver/mallet oughta do for it.
Now just slip the new sprocket over the pedalarm and push it into place....should have little "teeth" that mesh with where it goes.
Slip the plate back on, and make sure the little tab goes into the little hole in the sprocket, you will see what I mean when you have it in hand.
Put the nut back on, and tighten it down real good, cause it's pretty important that it not come loose, heh.
Now, the tough part, bending that plate back so that part of it rests against the side of the nut, it's doable, just have some patience and work on it with the mallet and screwdriver.....the plate keeps the nut from workin loose, you see.
Now, just slap the side cover back on and tighten it.
And then, put your pedal back on - Viola ! yer done.
Easy as pie.
Rear Sprocket info is gonna have to come from someone who's got the moped handy to look at, it's been a while since I've done that and don't trust my memory on it.
Although it should just be a matter of the rear wheel bolts (17mm) and then whatever holds the rear sprocket on.
If y'all wanna correllate some of that and help create a FAQ out of it, I shall try to put the time into it....just never got around to compacting it to one single document, but it would be handy.
Add to yer notes, most Tomos come with a DelLorto 14/12 SHA Carb with a #48 or #51 jet in it.....and the older Bullets, some of them, used an Encarwi S22, I think.
Fer Snow&Ice riding, mind...
Go to the hardware store and buy about 20-some feet of flat-linked ornamental brass chain, cut it into 3-1/2 or 4 foot lengths dependin on your wheel size, then wrap it around the rim and tire - securing it with small S-hooks.
Viola!, moped tire chains.
The soft brass won't chew up your tires, although it may scratch the paint some on mag wheels, and digs in quite nicely....the downside is that they only last about 3 days worth of riding, especially if yer a throttle gorilla like me.
(ungh! fasta, fasta !)
(PS. ya buy 20-some feet so you have spare lengths, which you should carry on you in case of one of them mounted on the moped snaps.)
>>Is there a correlation between the lesser rubber on of course the rear tire and flats?<<
>>Is there a better inner tube than the one I can purchase at the locat moped shop?<<
Yep - go to Walmart and buy BELL Self-Sealing Tubes, and if you can buy them 1"-2" oversize...which would be 17" or 18" for the Tomos 16" wheels, that gives you a bit more rubber and makes them easier to install, cause you have to stretch the 16"s to get em to fit the Tomos rims.
(CORRECTION - Tomos takes 20"x2.125 size of any bicycle equipment, since bicycle stuff is measured differently.)
They're technically bicycle tubes, but they're very tough, and can self-seal anything up to a major gash, and prolly mostly seal even that, I have nothing but praise for em, and I should know.
>>What tire brand should I consider... original or some "motorclycle" that the local shop has offered me?<<
The OEM Tires that come on a Targa, plainly...SUCK!
Doubly so if you live in michigan....those half-slicks are good only for fully-paved, smooth, even surfaces, which you just don't get around here...and they're suicide on snow, mud or grass.
Go buy yourself some Cheng Shin tires, accept no substitute, they're the real-deal.
Try to get the "A" Tread design if you can, but any Cheng Shin tire is pretty damn good.
Your performance in cornering and braking should also improve.
The tires will run you $18-$24 each dependin on where you get them, and the tubes are $6 a pop, so total damage is around $48-$60...which isn't that bad.
I also reccommend a pair of heavy tire spoons, bicycle ones techically might do, but I've had no luck with the, they tend to snap in half while changing Tomos tires.
Most cycle shops will have a pair, figure $10-$15 for a set of two.
Hope alla that helps,
Someone suggested a Tomos Faq...so, here's a prelim, trying to keep to stuff you don't find in the manuals.
Basic Tomos Faq.
Engine Classes, A3 and A5(A35).
Both 50cc, both 38mm x 43mm stroke.
Best to refer to as "A3" or "A5" instead of "A35" to avoid parts confusion.
Transmission fliud - 300cc's (300ml) of Dexron type III is reccommended, but 10w30/10w40 motor oil can also be used.
The transmission casing screws are 4.2mm hex, good LUCK finding a hexkey that fits, a 4mm will do in a pinch, just don't strip them out.
Cylinder bolts are 11mm and require a deepsocket.
Be very careful tightening these, they are easy to strip and if that happens, it's a real pain in the arse to fix.
Exhaust bolts are 10mm and one of them is very difficult to get a socket onto, unless you have an angle-socket kit.
Removing the baffle prevents crud backup, adds a negligable performance increase and more aggressive exhaust note.
Carberator is either an Encawri (Old Bullet models) or a DelLorto 14/12, usually with a #51 main jet.
Compression ratio should be 9.1:1 (about 9/1)
Electrical output should be 12v/50W (some older models) or 12v/80W.
Brown wires are ground, black or yellow should be hot leads.
Plug gap should be 0.5mm
Champion = L82C/L86C/L90C (Depends on which book you check)
Bosch = W8AC
NGK = B5HS
Motorcraft = AE4/AE4x/AE6 (depends on book)
Denso = W16-FSU
AC Delco = 422Z
Splitfire = SF409C
Stock tires suck, Cheng Shin (imported via maxxis tire and rubber) makes very good replacement tires that fit well.
BELL self-sealing tubes, 1"-2" oversize, fit Tomos tires and work quite well. (available at walmart)
Chainsaw lube works best on the Tomos drive chain.
The tires are 16" by 2.125", mags or spokes, an ordinary bicycle spoke wrench/tool fits the spokes.
A pair of heavy tire spoons not only come in handy for changing tires, they are also helpful in removing the flywheel.
The A3 and A5 left side transmission covers are interchangeable.
Whew, that's a lot...