Newbie

I just signed up here, I'm very interested in purchasing a moped probably within the next month. I need it to get around the city a bit and i'll probably be looking in the $300-400 range. I'm handy with tools and i've pulled apart a few lawn-mowers and bicycles over time so i wouldn't mind something that needed repairs. What i'm really wondering is what should i know before making a purchase, what should i be looking for in a moped, what repairs are normally the most troublesome, where good places for parts are....those sorts of things. I had a scooter a long while ago but scooters aren't what i'm looking for. Any advice / links to useful info will be appreciated.

Re: Newbie

Cleats Onionpockets /

What what what? A newbie that knows the difference between a moped and a scooter right away!?

Welcome!

As far as brands, it really depends on opinion. I consider Puch bikes to be about the easiest to get running, but there are those that will swear by another.

Typically on older bikes that have been neglected, the electrics need attention, as well as the fuel delivery system. Both are fairly easy once you get the hang of things. The other reason puch would be better is that parts...are....plentiful. You need it, we got it. There are several online shops that are viable, though ebay is a great source for used parts to get your bike going again.

Re: Newbie

What to look for when buying a used moped

by Gimmyjimmy .

Begin with the engine, Will it turn over? If it does, but it doesn't start, it could be a spark or fuel problem. Take the gas cap off and look down inside the tank. If it's rusty the carb is probably clogged and needs a thorough cleaning, as will the gas tank and lines.

Check for spark by removing the plug wire and putting a screwdriver in the end of plug wire and hold it near the spark plug, kick it over and look for a spark to jump from the screw driver to the plug. No spark? Then the points, coil, or entire ignition system needs work. Look at the wiring -- any loose wires dangling? Black electrical tape, two wire twist-splices? Do the handlebar switches work? Lights and horn?

Look closely at the engine. Are the cases (engine halves) cracked, held with epoxy, or covered in oil and sludge? Check the engine nuts and bolts for wear from frequent disassembling; a clue that maybe someone did a hack job inside the engine.

Check the miles on the speedometer. Does it match the wear and appearance of the bike? Check to see if the speedometer cable is connected. Look at the cables and levers, do they work smoothly or do they bind and are rusty.

Check the cable adjusters near the levers and brake drums, if they are adjusted out to the max, the cables are stretched and need replaced. Also, the brakes may need to be replaced if your cables are adjusted all the way out. Look at the tires for cracks and dry rot. Check for chain wear, that would be excess slack, and adjustment out to the max, and sprocket wear (pointy teeth).

With the bike on the center stand, straighten the front end, and then go about 8 feet in front of the bike, squat down and eyeball the front forks.

They should be straight and even. Sometimes the handlebars may be bent and may make the forks appear to be out of alignment by sight. Double check this by sitting on the bike and looking down at the position of the tire when the bars are straight.

If the bike runs, see how it performs on flat ground and hills after it has COMPLETELY warmed up. Now you can check the brakes; try a panic stop. If a squealing sound is heard, it may need new brakes.

While riding it, does it pull to one side? That could be as simple as the rear wheel out of adjustment or as bad as a bent frame or forks.

Shimmy and shake could be bent wheels or bad tires. Listen to the engine for internal noises and feel for clutch slippage. After the test ride, discuss the bike's history with the seller. Wait a couple minutes and look under the bike for any drips that could be caused by bad crank seals, leaking engine cases, or a transmission seal. After a few minutes, ask to start it again and see how easily or difficult it starts. It should idle without stalling.

Appearance wise, does it have an odd ball paint job? Mismatched parts, pitted chrome, ripped seat? It all knocks off the asking price. A non-running moped should be had for under a hundred; a clean, well maintained, easy start moped could fetch several hundred.

If you don't understand how to repair and recondition an older moped, go with a newer, running one. With the info from websites like this one, it's easy to keep them maintained.

Re: Newbie

welcome

here's a link to the articles section on what to look for in a moped

http://www.mopedarmy.com/resources/articles/buyingused/

good luck

Re: Newbie

Wow, that's some good info quickly. Glad i spotted this site now. I'll post more questions as i have them.

Thanks!

Re: Newbie

Something i was wondering, you do handle winter time in the north east. Is there any way to ride somewhat safe or is it just much better to drain it and store till spring?

Re: Newbie

Nick,

The Boston Khz meet every Wednesday night at the Otherside Cafe at Newbury and Mass. Ave. You should come on down and check things out and speak face to face, if you are interested.

Re: Use those subject lines well. Get Free.

When you attack the new people you lose any respect you mayhave had from me ever. Get lost bigmouth.

Anyway, here's a link to that last question of Leesam's....

"That and more":http://www.mopedarmy.com/resources/articles/

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