Fisrt I need to know where I can get all the bearings and seals that I need, and second, are there any other things that I should do when I have this thing all taken apart, performance wise.
Fisrt I need to know where I can get all the bearings and seals that I need, and second, are there any other things that I should do when I have this thing all taken apart, performance wise.
Mopedshop.com has all the bearings, seals, gaskets, etc. Stock pistons and cylinders are impossible to find, but are usually salvagable. There is nothing you can do to a stock engine performance wise, but porting and sanding the head down for more compression, both bad ideas. If you want performance, you will have to get it with aftermarket parts. Peace. Jerry.
I can't recommend Treats highly enough. Here is a link to Benji's website. Tell him that you need bearings and seals for an E-50 and he'll get you set up, even if they're not shown on the website.
For a relatively cheap and easy performance kick, ask if he has a 50cc high compression head. I put one on my last rebuild and it really seems to have added some nice power.
Hope to see you on Monday at Founders.
Im gonna disagree with Jerry -
Sensible porting isnt a bad idea.
taking a dremel and going totally apeshit on your cylinder is a bad idea if you have no idea what the hell your doing.
things like matching intakes to ports and stuff can give you some performance.
taking the huge 1hp head gasket off my magnum and hucking it in the trash was the best thing i could do for it, after taking off the 12mm bing and intake and replacing it with the stock 14mm and intake, then taking the air cleaner element out that was restrictive and using pantyhose, then matching the air with a 66 jet....
i think its all about using your head and not going all craxy
but, if you were gonna put a kit on it, id case match it while you have it apart.
hey andrew, could you explain port/intake matching? i have tried searching to get a better explanation on how to do it but i havnt found any. is there any resources you could point me to?
the wiki up top, and then search "e50 rebuild"
Another smart dude will walk you thu it.
andrew,
thanks for that stuff. i did watch it and read the e50 rebuild already. i get the port mathcing but i am sticking to my stock cylinder so i dont think i will need to do that, right? anyways what im more concerned about is the intake matching. it is basically the same concept as port mathcing right? just use the gasket as an outline?
That is correct. Dremeling out the intake manifold to match the cylinder intake is a nice easy baby step - you can't really screw too much up.
"taking a dremel and going totally apeshit on your cylinder is a bad idea if you have no idea what the hell your doing." That's what I meant. And I have no idea how porting is done. It isn't done on car engines. And high compression requires high octane fuel. To many times I've seen someone try to run super high compression on car engines, only to wind up with serious engine damage. Compression is like splitting hairs, how high is too high? You never know till your engine blows up. I recommend more traditional methods, like increasing displacement, a bigger carb with a less restrictive filter, proper jetting, and an expansion chamber exhaust. Making power this way will shorten the life of your engine, but it's not likely to blow up. Peace. Jerry.
Jerry its kinda differnt witha 2 stroke - but to put it simply, ( you cant really compared 2 strokes to 4 ) but actually moving the port effects the actual mechanical timing of the motor. You dont do it on car engines cuase it wouldnt work with a 4 stroke. its about the location.
Doing it whilly nilly with no idea what the hell your doing is a bad idea, unless you have 5 puch top ends laying around ( i actully do but i still aint gonna start dremling em, ill wait till someone who knows better shows me how )
Changing the compression ratio on a puch is really easy, and your not gonna screw anything up, remember the hi-tourqe motors run without any head gasket at all. Magnum motors work awesome without a head gasket, you just need a little tiny bit of high temp gasket seal and patience tightening the head down.
Puch used different types of head gaskets as a way of restricting thier hp rating. I have a magnum that i took a head gasket out of that was like a goddamn ham sandwich thickness. Just taking it out and running a 2hp one or none at made it so much better. Doing that effects the motors sqush zone, and until you start holding the head on a sander belt to make it high compression your really not in any danger of screwing anything up.
Dave your correct. If your running a stock cylinder just put it back together. But why would you do that LOL
Get a small mild kit, case match it, carb it right and blast.
Dont take me to seriously LOL
I have a question along these same lines, the bearings on my e50 rebuild do not have grooves cut for the snap rings on the case.
How neccesary are they?
hmm . thats a good question. It might not move, but those bearings must have came with those locator rings for some reason - austrians and germans always have some mechanical reasoning behing doing something like that ( be it good or bad )
wait - the case doesnent have the groove or the bearing doesnt have a ring?
if the case has the goove, just go to napa and get a bearing with a ring. only 8 bucks.
If the case doesent have a spot for the ring....then i dont know what to tell ya. Is it some kinda later model 85 and up thing?
Yeah, its the Puch AD. I dont know too much of its life except that I am the third owner, and the crank has been replaced.
The case has a spot for the ring, but the crank has a small c-clip, that rests very near the bearing, i am assuming to keep it in place.
post a qustions with "hey dan / huhu in the title"
or moped jay
both of those dudes know that ad motor
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