i need help new to mopeds

stonnerdog /

i need help im new to mopeds and dont have very much mechanical experance. i have a puch moped and i have cleaned the carb got new spark plug and made sure coil and the spark plug wire were working and no lose connections. it started and ran fine for about 15 or so minutes then it just died and now i cant get it to restart i dont know if i fouled the plug all ready or what < the plug is a ngk model # b6hs> is this the wrong kind/size?? the plug is a excat replacement to what came w/ the bike when i got it. i would really appriceate any advice on the subject thankx.

stonnerdog

swarm and destroy

p.s. could any one plese tell me the directions to check and clean the points.

Basic Tune-Up

...stonnerdog... You did put 2 stroke oil in the gas?.. right?

Here are the basic tune-up procedures for most moped engines.

General Moped Tune-Up Procedures

The first thing to check on a moped that won't run is to see if you have spark at the spark plug..... pull the spark plug out and hold the metal part of the plug firmly against the cylinder head while you kick or pedal the moped rapidly with the key on (if it has one) and the run/off switch (if it has one) switched to run.... it might help to do this at night or in a dark garage to make it easier to see the spark.... it might also help if you have 2 people... 1 to pedal/kick, and 1 to hold the plug firmly against the cyl. head... you are looking for a blue spark to jump the gap on the plug..... make sure you have a good spark plug to start with, a black or gunky or wet one will not spark... If there is no spark.... clean the ignition points like it says below.... If there is spark... squirt a little bit of gas into the spark plug hole and try to start it.....if it starts and runs for 5 seconds and then dies, then clean the carburetor like it says below.

CLEANING the CARBURETOR

Clogged or dirty carburetors (on the inside !!) are the most common reason for poor performance... the carburetor must be removed..... then you take off the float bowl (on the bottom).... then you remove the brass "main jet" in the middle of the carb.... hold it up to the light and look thru it.... it must be clean and clear..... if it is not clear you must poke a piece of fine wire thru it.... a wire plucked from a wire brush works good.... or some soft multistrand copper wire like from speaker wire or lampcord wire... don't use a drill bit !!.... next you should screw the idle mixture screw in... !!!! while counting how many turns out it was set at !!!!!..... then remove it and all other screws...... now you must clean out all passages in the carb with aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air (like 100 psi) with a blow nozzle... squirt the cleaner in ALL orifices one by one followed by a blast of compressed air.... while you are blowing air thru the holes feel with your fingers to feel where the air is coming out of and blow the other way too... take your time...... then reassemble all the parts (remember to turn the idle mixture screw out to its original setting... usually between 1 and 2 full turns out from all the way in) and reinstall the carb.

CLEANING the POINTS

The next most likely cause of bad running are dirty or mis-adjusted ignition points..... to clean them you need some fine grit sand paper (like 400 grit), a piece of clean paper, some scissors, and some aerosol brake cleaner or carb cleaner and some compressed air with a blow nozzle....... remove the ignition cover and look for the points in one of the holes in the flywheel.... lay the bike over on its side and sit on a milk crate or something to get comfortable... then cut some thin strips of sandpaper.... pry the points open with a small screwdriver and stick the piece of sandpaper in between the points and let them close.... then pull the sandpaper out.... do this several times to each side.... now pry the points open and blow them off with compressed air... then spray them with the cleaner.... then cut a strip of the clean paper and pry the points open again and drag the paper thru a few times.... blow them off again with air while open.... now they should be good.

SETTING the TIMING

Correct ignition timing means the spark plug is firing at the correct moment in the engines rotation.. a little before TDC (top dead center.. when the piston is closest to the spark plug)....clean the points like it says above FIRST... Then look on the outside of the flywheel for some lines and letters.. there should be a T mark next to a line... and an F mark next to a line... There should also be a mark on the engine case .. the T mark will line up with the mark on the engine case when the piston is at TDC.. you can remove the spark plug and stick a screwdriver in the hole against the piston and turn the flywheel.. when the piston pushes the screwdriver all the way out, the T mark will be lining up with the mark on the engine case.. the points will have already opened BEFORE that.. they should just START to open when the F (Fire) mark lines up with the mark on the engine case.. To check this accurately you would need to have special tools.. but you can see if it is close by watching the points START to open when the F mark passes by the mark on the engine case.. rotate the flywheel several times back and forth while watching the F mark to get a feel for when the F mark lines up.. then switch your eyes to the points and watch carefully for them to break.. if you are careful enough this will be good enough to run alright.

GAS and OIL

With modern 2-stroke oils you should probably pre-mix between 3 oz.(43 to 1) or 4 oz.(32 to 1) of oil per gallon of gas.....and mopeds are designed to run on the lowest octane of gas you can buy (87 oct.) because they are afraid that somebody who doesn't know better will put the cheap stuff in..... and higher octane will not make it run better or faster or make more power.... Make sure you buy 2-stroke oil... I have found regular 2 stroke oil to be just as good as the much more expensive synthetic oil.. but some people say it works better.

Newer mopeds might have an auto-lube oil pump.. so that you don't have to pre-mix the gas and oil.

Re: Basic Tune-Up

or mabe the thing just ran out of gas.........lol!!!!!!!!

Re: Basic Tune-Up

It happened to some friends of mine with an old pick up. They took it to the gas station to fill it up and the filler neck overflowed. Drove it about 15 miles and it stopped and wouldn't run. They pushed it with a car all the way home and discovered the gas gauge was on empty, as was the tank.

Apparently when they filled it up the tank "burped" and they assumed it was full and drove off. When it stopped no one thought to look at the gas guage, since they "knew" it was full!

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