A differemt way to adjust the points

Matt Wilson /

When I adjusted the points on my peugeot, the manual suggested a different method from the point gap and the cigarette paper method.

It was very easy to do, and according to the manual it is the most accurate way.

You get 2 batteries and a small flashlight light bulb. Connect all three elements in series, and then connect the negative end of the last battery to a good ground (the manual reccomended a cooling fin on the cylinder). Then connect the ground on the light bulb to the brown wire coming from the rectifier.

You put the flywheel at the mark and open the points until the light dims.

My question is will this method work on other mopeds?

And if it will, how do I know which rectifier wire to use?

I will need to check the timing on my puch later this week, and I would prefer to use this method if possible.



Re: A differemt way to adjust the points

InfectedBootSector /

What you basically made was a timing light, so yeah, it should work fine!

Lemme know how it works on the Puch!

continuity tester

Sure ... that'll work great ..

You are just using the points as the electrical switch to turn the light on and off.

Thats what points are... a switch.

Thats better than either method suggested in 'the guide'.

Rigging up the batteries and wires isn't necessarily 'easy' though.

If you have an electrical meter .. you alrerady have a continuity tester .. use it instead.

As far as which wire to connect it to .. you will easily figure that out when you come to it.

You may find it easier to unplug the wire going into the coil (from the points) ... then - just run the wires from the 'continuity tester' you've made to both sides of the points.

Re: continuity tester

Matt Wilson /


If I used the digital multimeter instead of the light bulb circuit I would close the points and measure the resistance of the circuit from the coil to the other end of the points. It would probably be very close to 0 ohms.

Then I would gradually open the points until I see a spike in the resistance right?

Next week I'm going to fix up a puch that a local beer supply store owner has. It just needs the tank cleaned, the carb cleaned, and the points adjusted. And I figure that he's a good guy to be friends with..


Re: continuity tester

Oh yeah... but guess what ?... I am still in the dark ages.. and my multi-meter is analog... so you just wait for the needle to move.

a light or a noise or something like that is more effective than a readout.

... you do know that once you 'set it' ... you're not done ?

You have to rotate the engine a few times and see if they still open at the F mark.

Thats one frustrating thing about points.. you sometimes have to set the 5 times till they are correct after they are tightened down.

Re: continuity tester

InfectedBootSector /


I've always been taught that having an analog and a digital both are good. I love my analog meter... it has more character!

Re: digital too picky

A digital multi meter tends to run all over the place when doing something like this.

An analog meter wher the needle just swings is the easiest to read in this case. Actually, any continuity tester will work, provided the coil is disconnected from the points prior to checking the timing.

Then don't forget to reconnect the coil after setting the timing!!


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