Hey, I have been wanting to change my transmission fluid for a long time now, I read on here that I should change the fluid with Dexron III automatic trans fluid.......and I know that I am supposed to drain all thats in the moped.......did that....screw that screw back in then unscew the side screw and top screw.....ok So I filled the thing up at the top screw until fluid ran out at the side one.......then I screwed them both back in.....and put my side covers back on..........and went to ride it.........IT runs very nice until it goes to shift.....then it takes FOREVER to shift....WHY!? Also it pumps out an insane amount of smoke from the exhaust pipe......I was thinking that I might have gotten some in the air box....but I am not sure what to do even if I did get it in the airbox!...will it eventually run itself out?......also how do I fix the shifting problem WHAT DID I DO!!!......o yea.....its a 2001 targa........hehe thanx for ur help
HELP! TOMOS TRANS FLUID
Re: HELP! TOMOS TRANS FLUID
You mighta put a little too much in, that'll make it hard to shift, yes...and if you had overflow into another area while doing that you prolly should clean the carb out pretty good.
Drain a little bit of the fluid out at a time, and run it each time...but just a little bit.
Re: HELP! TOMOS TRANS FLUID
ok.....I will drain a lil out at a time........and how do I clean the carb.....if it is really complicated u could just link me to some tutorial or somthin........thanx alot!
Re: HELP! TOMOS TRANS FLUID
That I can do, sort of....after this post I will repost a bit on how to get the carb out, and there's always Freds Guide, of course.
Basically, once you get it out, use compressed air to clean it out, if you can find some way to accomplish that, it's the most effective method.
If you cannot, soaking it and then scrubbing it out with a light brush will do the job, just not as well as compressed air.
As for what to soak it in ? methods vary, but my favorite, is kinda weird tho it does work.
I soak it in the kitchen sink in warm water laden with dawn dishwashing liquid, then rinse it well (don't want any residue) and let it dry...and reassemble and install.
REPOST: Tomos Carb Removal.
HELP, I NEED TO GET THE CARB OUTTA MY #%^$$%#^&@ TOMOS !!
Ah, the age-old cry of the Tomos owner, upon discovering there's NO FRIGGIN WAY to get to that damn carb without (it appears) dismantling half the damn moped...
Well, actually, it's not that* bad, you just hafta know how to do it.
Firstoff, Loosen and/or remove the bolt on the side holding the exhaust on...I would not mess with the one's holding the exhaust to the cylinder tho, cause they're a pain in the ass to get off and on...so just the side bolt.
Now, remove both side panels, the ones with that rubber strip on top...shouldn't be too hard.
Now, (trust me) loosen the REAR wheel and dismount the chain from it, but do not REMOVE the rear wheel...you just want tons of slack in the chain, you will see why.
Next, get a phillips screwdriver, a medium flathead, a tiny flathead and a pair of 13mm deep sockets on a pair of ratchets...tho if you only have one ratchet you can use a 13mm crescent/box-end, or even visegrips. - and a small bowl to hold nuts, bolts and screws so you can find em later.
Also, have the socket kit handy.
Next, disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug, and the two wires coming out of the transmission casing from the electrical system, this is so you do not tear them - and the connectors are easy to find and disconnect...if both are the same color (yellow/yellow instead of yellow/black or grey/black) you might wanna use some kinda marking system so you know which one goes back to which.
Now, shut off the fuel and using the flathead screwdriver, remove the fuel intake screw and move it out of the way, take the bolt out and put it in the bowl so's ya don't lose it.
Now, find the three 13mm bolts holding the engine on...and make sure you know where the kickstand mount bolt is too, cause it's WAY too damn easy to unbolt that by accident instead of the lowest engine mount bolt...so make sure you know where all four are...and which THREE hold the engine on.
Now, Loosen the top TWO bolts and remove the nut from the other side...holding that nut in place is what the second ratchet/wrench/visegrips is for.
Get an unsharpened pencil and push the bolts as far through as you can, then rap it with the wrench, that way you pop em out and don't strip em.
Now watch yourself, cause right here the engines held on by one bolt..see..
Get one hand under the bottom of the cylinder, where the exhaust goes in and gently loosen that last bolt as you ease it down, the slack in the chain should allow you go pretty far, but do NOT let it...your oil-injection and throttle cable lines are still attached, and thats our next job.
Ease it down only far enough to get a...oh hell, it's between 6mm and 9mm, the bolt holding the oil-injection thingie on, but damned if I remember...just be ready, and ease it down only far enough to get to it, then loosen and remove it.
Now, use a tiny straighedge screwdriver to remove the two small screws on top of the carb, and pull the throttle cable assembly out...and make SURE to see exactly how it goes together before that damn spring pops the whole works sideways.
NOW, you can let it down, and if you've done the rear wheel/chain trick right, the chain is looped around the back axle instead of the sprocket, and you should have sufficient room...
Next, use a flatedge screwdriver to loosen the screw just shy of the manifold, and then see if you can loosen the screw holding that black rubber widget on the back of the carb too, if you cannot get to it, try working it around where you can.
Now, get your fingers in there and get the rubber thingie off to make room for our next trick.
Grab the carb and pull it away from the manifold while rotating back and forth...there's VERY little room there to do it, cause it sits in a cutout of the transmission casing, but it should come back and off without any more hassle - if you cannot master this trick, just remove it at the manifold.
Anyhow, now you have a carb...set it gently down where it won't get dirty or mangled and GO WASH YOUR HANDS...having just found out how much of a bitch it is to get that carb out...do you really wanna put it all back together only to have to dismount it again and clean it ?
Treat this like surgery, you don't want to risk even a SPECK of dirt in there!
Now, having returned with clean hands, take the tiny flathead screwdriver you removed the cabr top screws with...and remove the bowl on the bottom of the carb, nice and easy...and yes, some gas will spill out, that's normal.
Once that plastic bowl is off, Viola! that brass bit in the center of the bottom of the carb? that's the main jet...use the medium flatedge to remove it, and replace it with your new jet.
Now screw the bowl back on and pray, really hard, that you didn't get any sand/dirt/grit in there...or just have the carb cleaned by someone who knows what they're doin.
You can reverse mosta this to get it back together, save to mention a few things.
First, that black plastic/rubber bit on the back of the carb...has to go over the plastic tube behind where the carb goes...best way to do that is to slowwwly lift the engine one-handed back into place as you use the medium flathead to make sure this happens....be quite prepared for a LOT of frustration, this tricks hard till you master it.
Also, getting the top of the carb back into requires you to know how the damn thing goes back together, so you'd best make sure you know, have a diagram handy if you have one....the L-shaped piece points to the rear wheel, and the round part of the slide does too.
The cable goes through the middle of the spring, not over/under it.
It's hell to describe, so get a diagram, ok ?
I know alla this sounds ultra complicated and a hassle, but dude...I can do it in under eight minnits, often even less (ask Fred, he's seen it) - it's just a matter of getting it down pat...and believe me, as a Tomos owner...YOU WILL.
Oh yes young skywalker...you WILL know...
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