50V Blowing bulbs

Alan Jackson /

i keep blowing bulbs. ive got the le partie or lauter type electronic ignition with regulator but as i get to high revs the bulbs blow. i think the stator is rated at 12v 50 watt? i think ive got a rectifier fitted, got too many peds cant remember whats what,

i had fitted 21W front and 10W rear so need to beef up a bit? electrics is not my strong point. can i fit leds that wont blow? if so what wattage? or stick to normal old style bulbs and if so what do others successfully fit?

i have the ba15s type bulbs. like indicator bulbs on bigger bikes? (edited)

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

Mopeds for ever MFE /

Are you using 6 volt bulbs on your motobecane after January 1st 1978 the lighting became 12volt. Are you sure that you are using 12volt bulbs otherwise you will keep blowing out bulbs.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

Alan Jackson /

if you read my post i tell you what electrics i am running the 12v le partie/lauter type. amd i also say its 12V bulbs i am blowing. i have a regulator with one yellow wite and a black ground. i cant fathom out how the one yellow wire takes in a feed and also lets out a feed. how can it influence the incoming and outgoing wires which could just bypass the unit ignoring it and carry on doing the blowing thing? can anyone help me?

its this type of regulator

and its going on this really common type of system

https://www.rrd-preparation.com/en/complete-ignition-for-mbk-51-motobecane-av10/2988-complete-ignition-cgn-type-original-electronic-12v-for-mbk-51-av10-motobecane.html

id really appreciate some help on this, thanks.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

🦺πŸ₯‡b to the MOPO 🚨🚨🚨 eff /

Do you have a link to any info on that part? You say it is both a rectifier and a regulator; but it looks to me like it's just a regulator.

Most regulators only have two terminals - power and return ("ground", usually the frame on a moped). They work by shunting extra power back to the return, typically with a reverse biased zener diode (or a stack of zeners, possibly with a forward biased signal diode or two to fine tune the regulator voltage).

I can go into more electrical theory here if you like, but the bottom line is that they are indeed intended to be inserted into the circuit with just those two terminals, power and return.

If you are blowing 12V bulbs on a 12V system with a 12V regulator, then your regulator either isn't working or isn't installed correctly. Make sure the frame connection is on clean bare metal.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

Brian, is there a bench test a regular dummy could do on these? Maybe a light bulb spliced into the yellow wire to show current going into the reg?

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

🦺πŸ₯‡b to the MOPO 🚨🚨🚨 eff /

What I do is apply a higher voltage than the regulation voltage with a resistor in series to limit the current, then check the regulator voltage with a DMM to make sure it's in spec. Two 9V batteries in series (~18V) is great for a 12V regulator; throw in a 1kΞ© resistor in series between the battery and the positive terminal on the regulator and you should be in business. You won't want to use any random resistor here, too small and it will burn up, too large and you won't have enough current to turn on the regulator. A 1kΞ© is a good balance for most diode based regulators (36mA in this case).

In theory a 6V bulb would work in place of that resistor, but I haven't tried it. It should light up with a good regulator. I'd use a low wattage one, like a little 1W speedo light or something. 9V batteries are pretty wimpy.

If the regulator is bad, or if you aren't giving it enough current to turn on, the voltage across it will read the full 18V. If it works and the test setup is correct, it should read about 12V. Many "12V" regulators are really designed for charging 12V batteries, and can regulate at voltages up to about 14.5V.

As you know, moped magnetos don't produce true AC power, so DMM voltage readings on a running bike aren't very useful. The scaling factor between what the DMM says and the peak voltage varies by configuration; how many coils, how physically large those coils are, how many magnets, on the flywheel, how large the magnets are, etc.

This is also complicated by the fact that there are many ways to build a regulator. A simple zener diode regulator can be checked with a DMM in diode mode, but who knows if that's what's going on inside these mysterious lumps of epoxy.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

Alan Jackson /

> 🦺πŸ₯‡b to the MOPO 🚨🚨🚨 eff wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Do you have a link to any info on that part? You say it is both a

> rectifier and a regulator; but it looks to me like it's just a

> regulator.

>

> Most regulators only have two terminals - power and return ("ground",

> usually the frame on a moped). They work by shunting extra power back

> to the return, typically with a reverse biased zener diode (or a stack

> of zeners, possibly with a forward biased signal diode or two to fine

> tune the regulator voltage).

>

> I can go into more electrical theory here if you like, but the bottom

> line is that they are indeed intended to be inserted into the circuit

> with just those two terminals, power and return.

>

> If you are blowing 12V bulbs on a 12V system with a 12V regulator, then

> your regulator either isn't working or isn't installed correctly. Make

> sure the frame connection is on clean bare metal.

my mistake it is just a regulator. thanks for that explanation. but part of my brain is imagining the "big bulb blowing charge of electricity" coming from the stator and seeing a wire leading to the bulbs and shoots off down that wire to the bulb to do its worst. it sees another route possible to the regulator and says sod that im not going down that route, ive got no one twisting my arm and ive also got no one stopping me from heading directly to the bulbs. im looking at it like a road traffic T junction with movement left or right. left to the bulbs or right to the regulator. so why does simply inserting a regulator stop the traffic from heading down the other route available? obviously it doesnt work like that there has to be an explanation. i dont need lots of theory just something like inside the regulator is a tiny magician with a tiny wand that conducts all the surplus electricity harmlessly away. or similar. i suppose now is the time for me to do some googling on my favourite pet hate subject.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

🦺πŸ₯‡b to the MOPO 🚨🚨🚨 eff /

The water analogy might work better here. Imagine a big pipe filled with water, and your bulb is an open faucet. A regulator is like a piece of pipe ahead of the faucet that diverts some of the water away, reducing the flow that comes out of the faucet.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

Mike McScoutington /

Brian, glad that you are the way you are. I always enjoy your posts.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

2 Smoke Junkie /

I don't know if you got it sorted. I am an electrician of 25 years, just a few quick thoughts. If you have not installed the regulator use it, bulb life depends on it. As already mentioned try mounting the regulator, notice how the ground tail and device have the same size hole? Mount the regulator and install the ground tail over it. If the stator has a ground wire to the frame try using that point to install if it fits. The regulator may need to grounded at the sheet metal part and the tail to work. This may also help pull heat out of it as well. A good spot with some air over and little splashing would be ideal. The other thing to check is the grounds, when you hit the kill switch all that CDI voltage needs to go somewhere. If the frame ground is intermittent or weak you may be dumping it through the bulb, the power wants to go somewhere to ground. The truth about regular bulbs these days is that they are just junk. You may just need to run a 35 watt bulb with that kit, the light may be dim at idle and low RPM but may bring things into balance and take some load off of the regulator.

Re: 50V Blowing bulbs

Alan Jackson /

thanks for that. the water analogy explains it perfectly brian. and thanks jdc74, the little i do know about electrics is the need for good earthing and the points you covered although siting for heat dissipation is something i didnt consider.

i already fitted high wattage bulbs that are dim at idle and dont blow at full pops.

cheers for the help

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