Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Leaving here for when I'm super old and I wanna build a sick hobbit again. Also for those who are like me (slightly mechanically inclined, don't know nothing about mopeds)

Job for today: Boring out hobbit cylinder to accept the Stage 6 70cc kit using the treats adapter plate, you will need to split the cases n stuff. Remember you used a just a jaw puller. NEVER just use a jaw puller, and a three jaw puller at that. Get the right tools next time. (i.e. clutch puller, a puller with TWO jaws, torch, bearing splitter)

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Attach the plate and use a sharpie to mark where you're going to cut

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Begin cutting. I used a cylindrical carbide bit with a round top on a dremel. Maybe invest in some legit dentist equipment? Or a real porting tool? Idk do people use dentist equipment for porting? anyway moving on....it'll be rough at first with the carbide bit, but you can use a sanding drum and wire brush wheel to buff it out and make it smooth. More smooth=something good?

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Voila~! Just be patient and be steady with the dremel (or whatever you got), one bad slip on those mating surfaces and you might be fucked

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Begin assembly of the cases. It's super hot rn so freezing/heating/thermal expansion yadayadayada method did not work well for me. Used a press, assembly lube, and a torch. You'll need one of those really big sockets, idk what they're used for but I had one lying around. And replace those dumb phillips case bolts. Use literally anything else.

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Now assemble. Very straightforward. You're not gonna be using the metal gaskets that came with the kit, just the o-rings and the oem gasket that's been cut.

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There it is! Now put the stock ignition and variator and the 15.15 clone cuz ur too broke rn to buy the supporting mods for this kit. Stay tuned ;)

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Looks pretty , so far . ;)

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Aww man a 15:15 clone.... If $60 is breaking your build then you are going to be real sad soon.... Also when you find out how impossible the clones are to tune correctly.

The rest looks great! Keep it going!

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Joe Schuitema /

I can't say how much power was left on the table, but without hogging out the stock transfers there is a serious pinch point before opening back up to the huge cylinder transfers. You can go quite large before breaking through the cases. jb weld can be used behind the transfer port walls for extra strength.

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Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

i didn’t go out of my way to get a clone for this (came with the trashed hobbit), i threw it on for the meme but yeah you’re right already sad cuz i’ve projected that i will probably go bankrupt with this build

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

operator error 696 420 /

Shits fucking crazy! 😯 Every time I see a big bored water cooled moped

Dude don’t run it without a huge fucking carb! And big ass pipe (edited)

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Got damn those are massive. I think i’ve seen your hobbit on youtube, a VERY nice build. I’m probably gonna open them up down the line. do you have more photos to of your cases? id love to see your process:)

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Jesse Nordlander /

What's the squish come out to as installed?

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Just measured it! Used a piece of solder, measured to be just a tiny tiny bit under .80mm

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Joe Schuitema /

Looking through my old photos, I just have these two. I did poke through in one spot, but with the amount of epoxy behind it it hasn't been an issue for the 4 years of hard riding.

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Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

operator error 696 420 /

> clown boy wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Just measured it! Used a piece of solder, measured to be just a tiny

> tiny bit under .80mm

That’s pretty tight…. I’d back off a little!

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Yeah I got impatient and ran it with the 15.15 and the stock points 💀 It's runs! (very briefly like two seconds but the nut loosened and the flywheel fell off). currently working on getting my hands on the supporting mods (cdi, upgraded variator, intake assembly, etc.)

I bought a 28mm flatslide and still working on the pipe. I've been trying to find a stage6 r1400 or voca combat r/t but to no avail. I've been eyeing at the mlm g104 to hack and weld, but I'm still unsure about header fitment/tube length. Any one have any high hitting (around 12000-14000?) pipe recommendations? Preferably something that places nice the hobbit subframe but, I'm not too picky at this point.

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Torqued and remeasured the squish. Treats says that the kit was designed for a squish of .80mm so since I'm meticulous, I slaved over the motor for a good couple hours trying to get it💀

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

That's amazing Joe, I will have to look into doing that myself. Did you weld material to extend the cylinder mating surfaces or is that jb?

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Hit up Ryan from cranks pipes. He can build you a pipe specific to what you need.

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Jesse Nordlander /

> clown boy wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Just measured it! Used a piece of solder, measured to be just a tiny

> tiny bit under .80mm

That's great for big power, a bit tight for me but, should last a long time. What's the actual compression number?

If the clearance grows in the rod bearings it could start tapping.

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Joe Schuitema /

Yes, weld was added to the face and later decked and bored out.

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

operator error 696 420 /

> Jesse Nordlander wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > clown boy wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > Just measured it! Used a piece of solder, measured to be just a tiny

>

> > tiny bit under .80mm

>

> That's great for big power, a bit tight for me but, should last a long

> time. What's the actual compression number?

>

> If the clearance grows in the rod bearings it could start tapping.

Not only that but at high to Rpm, the crank is going to throw the piston out farther

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

campeona del mundo /

bigger isn't always better when it comes to transfers. the s6 kit with no case matching will still blow pretty much anything out of the water.

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Joe Schuitema /

Yes, it will still make power, but there is no downside to eliminating a choke point that's feeding the engine. Matching the transfer port width all the way down matches what even the stock scooter cases have. That spacer is nice that it allows someone to bolt on a scooter kit without needing to weld material on the gasket surface. If you own a dremel or sanding drum then you're good to go.

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Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

there are downsides of removing choke points if it means that crank case compression ratio drops too low, but I'm sure you know that and meant to say that as well.

in any case, i'd love to see some dyno numbers between setups with deeply dug transfers versus stock transfers like the OP has. everything else would have to be identical otherwise, which i'm sure would never happen, but it's fun to dream

I will say, under the guise of standardization, I am a much bigger fan of how the OP did not dig is transfers out insanely deep (which we all know is worse then having them be too shallow.)

either way, like willie said, this shit is gonna blast regardless.

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

campeona del mundo /

clearly, this can only be settled by racing for pinks on the banks of the LA river (edited)

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

operator error 696 420 /

Yea it’s all about cfm and high turbulence!

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

> campeona del mundo wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> clearly, this can only be settled by racing for pinks on the banks of

> the LA river

fully backed.

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

lol i think i can get this thing finished by the end of this year, i definitely want to see how this would contend to similar setups. need more rallies in CA!

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Just a quick update for you beautiful people. Finished the setting up the ignition and variator sides of the engine. All slapped on a mlm subframe. I could've gotten it up and running; however, I neglected to remember to buy the spacer for the reeds (gonna use the dio vforce 3's). Nevertheless, immediately picked it up and is currently on the way. In terms of any issues, the only one is that my understanding of how one way bearings spin. They are pretty simple: spins one way, doesnt the other. I just kept putting it in the bell the wrong way for some reason. If you get the one linked on the treats xtreme clutch bell, the words face away from the bike (i think..i already forgot damnit). In addition, the ramp guides need to be sanded a bit. All in all, easy peasy, lemon im broke now. All really have to do now is wait for mr. crankpipe to make the exhaust (tyvm jay for the recommendation) and setup the radiator. If yall have any tips and tricks for water cooling things, it would be much appreciated.

Here's a quick mockup of everything, pls disregard the jank paint job

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Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

operator error 696 420 /

How much can you lift?

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Yo ! Just realized you’re in el dorado hills

I’m in Roseville you should come ride sometime

Re: Hobbit Blog Post for Dummies

Bench - 145

Conventional Deadlift - 275

Squat - 235

I've been going away from deadlifts for a min tho cuz the recovery just takes too long for me

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