It's a normal to have to crank this down after every ride?
About to bust out the loctite (edited)
Vibrations make fools of us all. Loctite anything on your bike you don't want to vibrate off. Just use the blue if you do plan on taking it off at times. Red for more permanent hold.
FWIW no it isn’t normal. Never had that thing come loose ever on any bike.
Maybe your tree is built weird and spacing it off. Have the forks been off or swapped?
Get the grease off the threads with a rag and some acetone, then blue loctite.
Are you taking the handlebars off and getting a socket on there or just kinda halfassing it with a pliers? That makes a big difference too.
That's probably your issue, the triple trees aren't lined up correctly. You need to loosen the clamp bolts on the lower triple that holds the forks and then tighten that nut and wiggle everything into it's happy place. Make sure the top triple is coming down square.
Also if your forks are shortened and can bottom out, a few good potholes will knock that nut loose and eventually strip the threads.
if your head nut wont stay on, your fork likely isn't installed properly. I have installed forks on the "wrong" frames many times to improve suspension:
Tomos Streetmate fork on a motobecane
Tomos Streetmate fork on a Tomos Sprint
Tomos Streetmate fork on a Yamaha Towny
Tomos Streetmate fork on a General
General fork on a Yamaha Towny
Tomos Sprint (Hydro) fork on a Puch Magnum
Tomos Sprint (Hydro) fork on a Tomos Revival
etc... so yeah i really like the EBR forks used on A55 Tomos frames
starting at like 4 Minutes...
if ya need better instructions than Maize provided:
but even the second video isn't great at explaining, you really need to make sure the triple tree top plate is perfectly aligned on the top bearing and fork tube attachment points. Ya gotta space it out perfect before that nut goes on. (edited)
Yeah I'm actually a helicopter mechanic do a lot of this, I thought about it. (Safteywire) (edited)
> Cory Fletcher wrote:
> Yeah my steerer tube is shorter than the Fork so I had to put some
> spacers in there, probably not the best idea, I might need to think of
> another solution
Spacers aren’t the problem, I’ve used them when I had similar problems.
It should work kinda like a double nut set up! Take the handle bars off so you can actually get at the nut head properly! Yes I do use blue loctie just for the bell of it! Crank the fucker down really tight!
I had this problem back in the day and it was just bad assembly!
I don't use Loctite. I use a torque wrench and follow specs or at least make sure there's a lock washer.
I was wondering if there's a lock washer on those. typically you've got that lock washer between the actual cone nut and the top cap with the little tab that slides into the cutout on back of the head tube. That thing can't spin so the top cap and the headset nut can't spin off together.
> Kelikaku קוטין wrote:
> I hear they used to use this in the early days of automobiles.
My buddy did this for the knock offs on his 32 ford’s wheels🤘🏼Solid safety measure
yea safety wire is still required in a lotta track stuff. I got some from the autoparts store the other day just cuz i needed good wire for a work project, it's been a goto for those pesky motobecane exhaust nuts
It's mandatory on airplanes and has to be a certain grade. If you buy the airplane stuff it is really nice, Malin is the brand and it's so much better than auto parts store or hardware store shit.
But it won't keep your shit tight... Mostly just keeps a wheel from falling off at 30,000 feet and killing someone.
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