MOPED ARMY

Bike frames are not made for engines. Bad idea bro

I don't think that frame design would have enough room for an engine anyway.

definitely need to define your budget and goals and you can decide what's feasible. This is not a site for motorized bikes tho.

try https://motoredbikes.com/ and much lower action but also https://motorbicycling.com/

There are some tricks to making them more reliable but without spending at least a few hundred they're quite unreliable. On speed you can pack a 30mph battery setup into there with probably 15 mi range for something on the order of 6-800 bucks, but no gas & oil costs, cleaner and much better reliability.

For gas, bikeberry's a dominant vendor, I'd tryn find one with an automatic clutch so it can idle. Then probably be prepared to wreck the frame, weld the chain tensioner or avoid it entirely if possible

I've built one of these, you're going to need more room in a bike frame. That bike won't take a 2-stroke or 4-stroke kit due to the size unfortunately.

And you didn't ask this, but those bike kits are horrible if you're not handy. Unreliable and need tuning out of the box.

Also, WFFF.

https://www.bikeberry.com/products/bbr-tuning-f-zero-motor-ready-motorized-bicycle-white?variant=37763876126886&/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BikeBerry%20%7C%20Smart%20Shopping%20%7C%20Mid&gclid=CjwKCAjwk_WVBhBZEiwAUHQCmev6URj8J8flrkTAV9upwG3ThWAsZ88Ad1CLVh0Bv-LJfmjul-rp1hoCKoIQAvD_BwE

this was the 1st one I did, this topic comes up about once a year and i repost each time haha.

the clutches were awful, and it's manual clutch 1 speed. so you need a dual pull for the brakes on the right in order to have a clutch on left, and you're holding the clutch the whole time you're idling. so highly recommend and automatic clutch. makes all those issues less.

Also the chain tensioners get yanked into the rear wheel, like regularly. they're awful. if you can manage something to tension the chain without the roller tensioner, you're way better off

they do vibrate like crazy. Some opportunity to reduce that with dampers under the clamps but really it's just a crazy imbalanced engine. they're like zero QC, they just wing it. I fully expect the engine and mounts will fail before the bike tho.

I feel like that mongoose would be better suited for an electric conversion. You can put the batters on a rack on the rear of the bike. And just replace the front wheel with the electric hub one and boom ebike that won't kill you or rattle you to death.