MOPED ARMY

have you tried welding on the back half of a regular maxi? I saw a tutorial recently

Maize is the expert on this repair.

As soon as I saw this post, I knew Maize would be in the comments

Alright, yes i was already leaning towards some kind of reinforcement.

So.. basically just a metal plate on the inside welded ”over” the crack? How big should the plate be? I should probably sand the surface rust off first right? And then paint it with hammerite or something afterwards?

Ive never welded before, but ill probably just find some old man down at the harbour and ask him to weld the plate on in exchange for a six pack of tuborg beer.

And no, i wasnt going to ride the moped while playing the guitar, but now that you mentioned it i think it sounds like a pretty genius idea. Maybe thats the next post on here - ”how do i power a 200watt marshall stack with a 50cc two stroke?”

(The ”two piece maxi” by maize is magnificent)

Whatever you want welded needs to be free of paint and rust.

That should definitely be stick welded, in my opinion. And the “patch” on the back should extend at least three inches on each side of said crack.

I was suggesting stick, because most people have stick or MIG. Not many people (at least people I know) do TIG. Unless they are at a professional level.

As long as whatever the person welding is using has visually good penetration, it should be fine. Especially with a patch on the backside.

^ yeah. You could break it down and get it blasted and welded perfect and powder coated.

I have had a couple Maxi N's blasted and Powder coated for under $200

okay, you are giving me some good options here..

while taking it all apart and sandblasting etc would be the "best" solution, i don't think i want to do that if the simple weld and reinforcement is possible.

The frame is in good shape except for the back "tails" that hold the wheel. The opposite side is similar rust wise but with no crack.. but the rest of the moped doesn't have much rust at all.

But is it really that hard to weld that part without screwing up?

The same bike maize posted I’m currently working on fixing the rear supports. I’m boxing the rear end in with 3mm plates I’ve made. The cardboard was my template

I agree with maize, it should be easy. For someone who has the skills to do it. If you have any doubts about your ability to do it right, then DON'T. It will not be good if the frame breaks and the rear wheel falls off at 30 mph. Either have it done right or don't do it. Because of all the paint and rust around the crack, it will need to be cleaned up really well so it can be inspected better. If you don't want to sandblast it, that could probably be done using a grinder or drill with a wire wheel. You can't weld paint and rust. This is NOT a place to cheap out.

Maybe you can ship it to Mays. You might have seen the thread on swapping to suspension. But I think he has a spare rear end now. Could probably weld that on the front part of your frame so you don’t have to worry about the crack in the rear.

Honestly, JB Weld with some sand mixed in will hold it for at least another 100-105 or so hours of riding. From there, you can hit it with nitrogen (don’t use Hood) to equalize the steel and merge it with the JB Weld (maybe get you another 300-400 hours).

There’s a lot of advice in this thread, but if you really want to take it to the next level I’d just put it in a shallow tray of epoxy resin (the green, not the blue) and then use a dremel to cut off the extra material. From there you could convert it to belt drive to reduce strain and get more CC’s. It’s a two stroke, not a tomos.

Love that .75” of fork travel. Worst case just fill the fork tubes with Great Stuff/kitty litter to reduce wear and tear on the seals. All that suspending is stressful, and it’s impossible to torque it to spec.

yup. I've had 5+ they are a dime a dozen in MN. You can trade em to the Canadians for 40Ts all day.