1978 Puch Maxi Luxe Questions???

After having two motorcycle shops and a "number" of motorcycles in my 73 years I ended 54 years of motorcycle riding last fall when I sold my last bike (a 2017 Kawasaki Z1000).

In June of this year a great friend and Christian brother gave me a 1978 Puch Maxi Luxe High torque 2 HP that he had bought over 21 years ago and had never started it.

He had bought it from a guy who had bought it from a doctor whose son had ridden it. From the mileage when I got it (327.5 miles) I suspect that it hadn't been started since the kid parked it the last time.

Before I spent any time cleaning and detailing it I wanted to get it running.

The engine was locked up and before I pulled the head and jug I "strung up" the bike by the top triple tree from one of the shop girders to get the cylinder in a vertical direction.

I pulled out the spark plug and pumped in some Kroil. After letting it sit a few ours I took of the mag cover and putting a socket on the crank nut with a breaker bar gently rocked it back and for a few times and the piston freed up and turned over easy.

Everything in the mag area looked pristine which was good to see and spinning over the engine showed a nice spark.

I disassembled the carb and gave its parts several hours in the heated ultrasonic cleaner using SafetyKleen.

I then reassembled the carb with all new gaskets from the jug back.

The original petcock fill tube had to be cut to get it out of the tank and then the remaining tube and filter were fished out with a flexible gripper.

I pressure washed the tank until I couldn't get anything else out of the petcock attachment and then used compressed air to blow out any remaining debris, blowing in both directions (from filler neck and from petcock attachment).

I then used the electrolysis method to remove all the rust.

Pressure washing (from both directions) and then high pressure dry air (from both directions) left the tank acceptably clean.

Knowing it would be awhile until I got back to it I immediately topped of the tank with diesel.

When I got back to it I drained out the diesel and using dry compressed air I blew out the tank from both directions.

This was followed with a fill up with straight gas which was then drained and the tank blown out from both directions with dry high pressure air.

A new petcock was installed and the tank was topped off 93 octane non-ethanol with a 50:1 mix using Stihl HP Ultra.

After tickling the carb and putting on the choke it started after a couple of revolutions of the pedals while holding the starting lever.

The Kroil left in the cylinder produced a nice fog so that the bugs in the shop were persuaded to leave.

After riding it around the yard a little I took it out on the road for a few miles.

It ran very well and when I brought it back into the shop I set the idle to about 1,350 using the GTC TA100 Smartach.

Since it was warm I drained what little ATF was in it and replaced it with about 170ccs of fresh type F.

I was disappointed that there were a significant number of “shinnys” in what little ATF was in it.

I took the muffler off, disassembled and completely cleaned it and replaced it.

Depressing the horn button killed the engine so I tracked down that the horn ground had come out of its connection and was shorting out against the frame. Cleaning both terminals and applying a coat of dielectric silicone compound fixed that.

The next ride was about eight miles to continue to check it out and things were working well.

I again drained and refilled the ATF fluid and it was MUCH cleaner with only a faint trace of “shinnys”.

Satisfied with its starting and running I began cleaning and detailing it.

With it on the center stand while standing on the left side I bring the left pedal to its highest position. I turn on the fuel, depress the choke, tickle the carb for a few seconds, and while holding the starting lever give the left pedal a swift downward kick.

That routine rewards me with a start and after letting it run with a little throttle a minute or so I take off the choke and head out.

An 11 mile ride pretty much finished checking it out.

I’m well pleased with how it starts and runs and also very pleased with how it looks after a clean-up and detail.

I've got about $65 in it with the biggest expense being the CNC side cover bolts.

The original ones are somewhere in my friend's shop and the "bargain" ones I bought pulled apart with only a very light finger / thumb torque.

Two questions for all you Puch folks.

1.) I know that Puch sold out to Hero Motors several years after this bike as made (02/1978) so the Lemmi stickers are a puzzle to me. One moped parts dealer believes they were added by a previous owner.

2.) Under the 2 HP decal it appears like something else was there and has been removed.

Thanks in advance for any info.


Re: 1978 Puch Maxi Luxe Questions???

You've come to the right place! KEN and other Puch experts?

Re: 1978 Puch Maxi Luxe Questions???

1. Doesn’t belong someone added the stickers.

2. Nothing was under the 2hp sticker.

Re: 1978 Puch Maxi Luxe Questions???

Probably Fred /

Looking at the magneto means nothing most times,

Even though your bike starts and runs good now the points cam can wear down in not so many miles and you’ll have loss of power and then no spark

So make sure you service the magneto area completely not just look at before you even attempt to set timing with removing flywheel, inspecting the seal, cleaning and lubricating the inter cam on the flywheel, clean and oil the felt pad in Stator,

Clean the points with fine grit paper, preloosen Stator screws and point gap adjustment screws because it’s way easier with flywheel off, otherwise there’s a good chance your strip them out trying to loosen screws first through the slot in the flywheel,

Then set point gap (14-18 thou of in) and timing to specs of e50 (14-18 degrees before top dead center) so you could maintain the maximum output of your stock engine.

More on timing and maintenance Here https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_timing

Re: 1978 Puch Maxi Luxe Questions???

> Sir Clip wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> 2. Nothing was under the 2hp sticker.

Maybe a dealer sticker ?

Re: 1978 Puch Maxi Luxe Questions???

Herman Kantz /

Thanks to all for their input.

I figured out what the deal was with the residue under the current 2HP sticker.

Apparently the original owner "upgraded" for more power by replacing the original sticker (whatever it was) with a 2HP sticker and didn't bother to remove the original sticker residue.

Along with the non-original Lemmi stickers the 2HP sticker and all of their residue has been removed and the areas rubbed out and polished so that the previous stickers' presence is barely noticeable in bright sunlight.

What the Maxi was originally I don't know.

I do know that the bike has:

A 349. Silencer cover

A 16 tooth counter sprocket

A 12mm Bing (1/12/304) - I looked at the main jet when I was cleaning the carb but didn't bother recording its size. Needle clip was and is third position from bottom.

A 349. air cleaner assembly

The jug has a round port (I had measured it when I had the carb off to clean it but lost the figure).

What it was originally and what was done to it I don't know.

I do know that it starts with about a 1/4 revolution jab of the pedal and after a brief warm up idles nicely.

On level ground it will easily peg the speedo at 30 MPH and my Garmin NUVI says it's going 30-31 MPH. (Ready to ride I weigh about 165 pounds).

It's a pretty nice old "survivor" moped that other than some obvious performance enhancements hasn't been hacked up.

Cheers to all


Re: 1978 Puch Maxi Luxe Questions???

Very cool, nice restoration!

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